concur.
if you're not getting excessive pad knock back from wheel bearings or an out of true rotor its your front brakes not bled properly and you'll only be stopping on the secondary system.
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concur.
if you're not getting excessive pad knock back from wheel bearings or an out of true rotor its your front brakes not bled properly and you'll only be stopping on the secondary system.
Holly crap .....Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzman
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
You guys are all correct... bugger me, look at that, I'll be driving around on the front brakes. If there is plenty of air in the secondary system, the pedal won't pump up (my usual test for air in brakes). You know it probably doens't leak, 'cos all the fluid leaked away years ago and it's travelling around on the primary system for years.
Great, another job for the weekend.... bleed brakes .... see where they leak from (the fact there not working will mean there *IS* a leak somewhere).
seeya,
Shane L.
G`day Shane ,Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
the diagram you have is of a later system than yours , your system is different .
Yours is opposite your primary uses four and secondary uses two the prop valve has five pipes in total . The master is opposite to pictured . ETC
Follow the pipes and see .
however, the basic premise is sound.
oh, afterthought, when you bleed them, bleed down to the bias valve and then bleed to the back brakes.
I also bleed the system of the MC closest to the pedal first.
Hi Shane,
1) Attached is diagram of the earlier braking system.
2) Bleeding procedure for Brakes from the Land Rover / Range Rover Repair Operation Manual
And don't forget to undo the brake pressure / failure warning switch (four (4) turns) before attempting bleeding of either primary or secondary system.
Cheers
Baggy
Sweet, proper instructions!!! I'll have to re-bleed it following them. I bleed them like I'd bleed any car. I started at the rear corner furtherest from the master cylinder and kept pumping until all the brown **** came through and fresh bright green fluid came from the bleeder... some other rear, then did the same both fronts, bleed *both* front nipples at the same time ('cos looking at the circuit diagram for the later car, if you only cracked one bleeder, the secondary system would hold the pedal up high not allowing you to pump any fluid through really).
When I had nice bright green fluid from all the calipers, the pedal was way higher, it locks four wheels equally on gravel... the brakes feel a lot better, and it doesn't feel to nose dive under braking like it used too. I'd say the secondary system was ok, but the primary was full of air. Both were full of moisture and ****ty old fluid.
Why doesn't anyone ever chagne the brake fluid :confused: mechanics and people always do the oils and coolant, but never the brake fluid!
Oh yeah, for those that were convinced it was pad wear. The rear pads are at 50%, the front at 95% and the rotors I didn't measure (pointless without a lookup table for minimum thickness anyway) but there chunky with no lips on them. There's no evidence of leaks anywhere at this point in time.... If the pedal drops again, and one system get air ....... We will obviuosly have a problem somewhere though. I'll find out over the next couple of months :)
seeya,
Shane L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
only poor mechanics dont flush brakes, its a 12/24 month thing depending on environment and use
I know i originally said that it might be pads or rotors but after re-thinking it, that is not correct. The fluid level drops because of pad wear. Some mechanics top up the reservoir when pads and rotors get worn. They then remove the excess fluid before fitting new pads and / or rotors otherwise the fluid would overflow out of the master cylinder reservoir.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
It is not your pads or rotors.