five litre conversion ??

Hmmm.......
I have a VR V8 Commodore.
I have a S3 Stage 1 on a RRC chassis.
I'm looking at ways to minimise my registration costs.
This could become an interesting build thread.

Wasn't there a RRC that was sold with a Holden V8 in it? Was it a Schuller or a Brock?
What did they do?

And if your chasing a low stall converter for the 700, I have one that's barely been used sitting in my shed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

Hmmm.......
I have a VR V8 Commodore.
I have a S3 Stage 1 on a RRC chassis.
I'm looking at ways to minimise my registration costs.
This could become an interesting build thread.

Wasn't there a RRC that was sold with a Holden V8 in it? Was it a Schuller or a Brock?
What did they do?

---

Schuler became overfinch. They had 5 litre and 350ci conversions.

I can appreciated some questions about all wheel drives versus rear wheel drive.When you have a big motor with heaps of torque it wheels spins very easily on the front tyres. Secondly the LT 230 centre diff with the cross shafts and spiders are a weak point with lubrication issues on the shafts. With a simple mod you can have rear wheel drive and reduce the risk of blowing up the centre diff and the front end.
Roger, it still locks in 4wd the same way. Talking from experience it drives better and doesn't pull left or right under heavy acceleration.
I'm not sure if Bacicat or Dougal have big engines in there Rangies but I've tried a few combo's and this works for me.
My Combo, 383 chev, roller cam aluminium heads, M122 Magna charger supercharger 10psi, turbo 700, lt 230 & defender 110 rear diff.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bacicat

The LT230 gives you full time 4 wheel drive. You can modify it so you can select 2 or 4WD but as Dougal said - why would you want to run in 2WD? The Rangie steers and handles much better in 4WD and there is almost no saving to be had as far as fuel economy goes.

Don't over complicate it, get the transmission adapted to the LT230 and run it as it was intended.:)

---

Hi Bacicat have you tried rear wheel drive? Have you ever blown a rear diff and drove on the front diff in an rangie? I have to disagree with you I reckon the old rangie drives much better from the rear.

Installing the defender 110 rear diff.
It bolts straight up. Your wheels will fit (same pattern) and the diff is the same ratio. By memory the only thing was shortening the tailshaft and swapping over the spring base plates on the diff housing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tebone

Hi Bacicat have you tried rear wheel drive? Have you ever blown a rear diff and drove on the front diff in an rangie? I have to disagree with you I reckon the old rangie drives much better from the rear.

---

I've done rwd while sorting out prop shaft uni joints. I much prefer full time 4wd.
Better traction, especially noticeable in damp tarmac where you can't use locked 4wd.
Better handling as the front end tries to squat under power instead of lifting.

Yes one of mine spins front wheels occasionally. But when it does that it is still providing more grip and drive than a 2wd can. A torsen centre diff would put a stop to that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dougal

I've done rwd while sorting out prop shaft uni joints. I much prefer full time 4wd.
Better traction, especially noticeable in damp tarmac where you can't use locked 4wd.
Better handling as the front end tries to squat under power instead of lifting.

Yes one of mine spins front wheels occasionally. But when it does that it is still providing more grip and drive than a 2wd can. A torsen centre diff would put a stop to that.

---

My test was done with 33" tyres and big torque cast iron engine. Maybe a stock 3.5 V8 with stock wheels probably behave differently. One thing to consider dougal, there's less risk of braking stuff transfering the drive to the rear with big torque.

Going 2WD in that scenario means you really have to have a bullet proof back axle and driveshaft. The centre diff is easily strengthened. I have driven both my own RRC with just the back shaft in - didn't like it, and I've driven a 2 door RRC with a 350 Chev in it - in 4WD with 33's on it - it was fine - the castor correction had been done properly and it handled well.

I still don't see a need to make them 2WD - if you want a 2WD 4x4, just buy a Toyota....:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bacicat

Going 2WD in that scenario means you really have to have a bullet proof back axle and driveshaft. The centre diff is easily strengthened. I have driven both my own RRC with just the back shaft in - didn't like it, and I've driven a 2 door RRC with a 350 Chev in it - in 4WD with 33's on it - it was fine - the castor correction had been done properly and it handled well.

I still don't see a need to make them 2WD - if you want a 2WD 4x4, just buy a Toyota....:D

---

If you want to play a little bit you can have fun with 2wd.

Most Gen 1 350 chevs are very under powered and I'm not sure if it will give you the same test. Try something with decent torque 550-600 ft lb and 500 HP under full acceleration. You will notice the difference with the rear wheel drive set up.

Another hint for some Rangie Fans Castor Correction. I removed the swivel housings and got the holes slotted 4 degrees each. I removed the castor correction bushes and installed the original ones again. Cost me $150 for machine work and drives better with this set up instead of the castor correction bushes.