To be fair the other topic questions were all answered early on.Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
This was an important question in the conversion and claims made needed qualified.
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To be fair the other topic questions were all answered early on.Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
This was an important question in the conversion and claims made needed qualified.
Nope and onroad/offroad doesn't matter.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackrangie
If you modify the LT230 to give rwd then you have lost fulltime 4wd completely. There is no centre diff any more.
If you fit front FWH you can use those as a front disconnect. But this has absolutely nothing to do with the LT230. You are selecting 2wd with the front hubs, not the transfercase.
I'll make you a deal. You stop posting bull**** and I'll stop correcting it.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by blackrangie
Ok, guys.
Play nicely or Mr Moderator will want to be sending you into the naughty corner.
Yes, you all know who you are.
Another hint for some Rangie Fans Castor Correction. I removed the swivel housings and got the holes slotted 4 degrees each. I removed the castor correction bushes and installed the original ones again. Cost me $150 for machine work and drives better with this set up instead of the castor correction bushes
Do you any more details / pics on this mod. My son has just picked up a classic with 33" twin locked ,beadlocked etc & I think this may be good way to go.
Give LRA or Davis Performance Landies a call both do a great job in house or you can send your swivels in to get sorted.Quote:
Originally Posted by FANTOM P38
As the guy that started this thread has expressed interest in a RWD option, to point out the benifits of certain options please see below, also responses from Dave Ashcroft to specific questions.
Responses from Dave Ashcroft where the most common part time kit comes from. His Answers are in Capitals
"Just to confirm, with your part time kit with a normal LT230 centre (not ATB)
Does the diff lock lever disconnect the front drive instead of activating the difflock."
Dave: YES
"Someone is trying to tell me that when you part time kit in you loose the ability to have full time 4x4 on or offroad unless you lock the FW' hubs."
Dave: YOU ONLY HAVE LOCKED AWD
"Lets say you didnt put AVM freewheeling hubs on and had the part time kit in the LT230, it simply switches between RWD and locked AWD doesn't it?"
Dave: YES
"And im guessing that in that scenario you could only drive it in AWD offroad?"
Dave: YES
Dave: "The idea of the kit is to save energy by not turning the front end if you don't fit the hubs you don't get this saving".
Regards
Dave Ashcroft
............................
So for the record, when you do the part time conversion from Ashcroft http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...-time-kit.html you have the option to use the FWH's or not, and below ive tried to be as comprehensive as possible to show all possible off the shelf options for the LT230.
If you DO NOT use the FWH's with the LT230 part time kit you will have these options:
Onroad RWD (front end only driven by wheels)
Offroad RWD (front end only driven by wheels)
Offroad Locked AWD
If you DO use the FWH's with the LT230 part time kit you will have these options:
Onroad RWD (front not turning from prop to hub)
Onroad RWD (front end only driven by wheels)
Offroad RWD (front not turning from prop to hub)
Offroad RWD (front end only driven by wheels)
Offroad Locked AWD
If you just use the FWH's with the LT230 and NO part time kit you will have these options:
Onroad RWD (front end being driven from prop to hub)
Offroad RWD (front end being driven from prop to hub)
Onroad unlocked AWD (wheelspin not reccomended)
Offroad unlocked AWD (wheelspin not reccomended)
Offroad Locked AWD
If you use the FWH's with the LT230 and an ATB centre you will have these options: (my favourite)
Onroad RWD (front end being driven from prop to hub)
Offroad RWD (front end being driven from prop to hub)
Onroad Automatic Tourque Biasing AWD
Offroad Automatic Tourque Biasing AWD
Offroad Locked AWD
Peace :)
Cooling is another big issue, make sure you have a big auto cooler, engine oil cooler, really good rad, best twin thermos you can fit (with lit on/off switch for river crossings)Quote:
Originally Posted by yumastepside
Even look at utilizing the aircon fans for extra cooling via switch when needed :cool:
Let it breath with a good sized intake and snorkel
Mount your computer up under the dash instead of under the seat.
Speak to an engineer as soon as possible if nessesary to keep it legal in your state.
I fail to see any benefit whatsoever in fitting freewheeling hubs with an unmodified transfer case (I see dubious benefit with a part time 4wd kit).Quote:
Originally Posted by blackrangie
I was under the impression that the torque biasing centre diff was not able to be locked manually. Can you confirm if this is or isn't the case?
Edit: For clarity it is generally accepted that AWD means "car type" four wheel drive systems that are always driving all the wheels (discounting differential action) and 4WD is when the front and rear propshafts are locked together. That being the case you should probably substitute 4WD for AWD in your post above.
The TC TBD can be manually locked
Thanks for beating me to the AWD vs 4WD thing. Now he just needs to delete all on/off road references.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
The ATB centre diffs (Ashcroft and Quaiffe) are lockable. You can see the locking splines in the photographs of them.