Thread: five litre conversion ??

Yuma, what you are doing sounds great to me.
The Holden engine should be reliable,...and if you're not happy with the power or the torque, you could install a Harrop 355 stroker crank,...& maybe you'd want to make a few internal mods too, but you wouldn't need to disturb anything on the externals.
A good set of headers & dual pipes wouldn't go astray either,...nothing like the sound of a good V8 working hard?!
Some pics would be good.
Pickles.

.......lots of work before pics......if anyones interested, my camper I built ( am building ) is in the trailer/camper threads.

Roger

Originally Posted by tebone

If you want to play a little bit you can have fun with 2wd.

Like the dickhead who has torn up the car parking area near the local tracks by doing donuts?

Originally Posted by tebone

Most Gen 1 350 chevs are very under powered and I'm not sure if it will give you the same test. Try something with decent torque 550-600 ft lb and 500 HP under full acceleration. You will notice the difference with the rear wheel drive set up.

There is far more traction from a 4wd system on the limit of front traction than a rwd system.
How could anyone claim otherwise?

2wd requires twice as much traction on the driving wheels for a start. Then you have the torque reaction from the driveshaft (singular) removing weight from one wheel and limiting your rear traction further.

If you want rwd, go buy a patrol. Even Toyota realised their big 4wd's needed full-time 4wd.
More power is not a reason to go 2wd, it's completely the opposite. To maintain traction you need more wheels driving, not fewer.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Like the dickhead who has torn up the car parking area near the local tracks by doing donuts?



There is far more traction from a 4wd system on the limit of front traction than a rwd system.
How could anyone claim otherwise?

2wd requires twice as much traction on the driving wheels for a start. Then you have the torque reaction from the driveshaft (singular) removing weight from one wheel and limiting your rear traction further.

If you want rwd, go buy a patrol. Even Toyota realised their big 4wd's needed full-time 4wd.
More power is not a reason to go 2wd, it's completely the opposite. To maintain traction you need more wheels driving, not fewer.

Dougal, you sound frustrated with some of my comments. I'm talking from my personal experience with my combo's with my Rangies. I know in rally cars its different etc but I found this with my old Rangie.
For a start all wheel drive (4wd ) = 1 wheel drive. Rear drive (2wd) = 1 wheel drive. (older Rangies) without viscous coupling transfers etc.
I found that one wheel drives the wheel with less resistance. Especially when you accelerate the car it twists to the right trying to pick up the left front wheel causing it to wheel spin in the Rangies.
Remember, full time 4wd = 1 wheel drive. Its different if you have traction control and new technology but I'm talking about an old Rangie.

Originally Posted by tebone

Dougal, you sound frustrated with some of my comments. I'm talking from my personal experience with my combo's with my Rangies. I know in rally cars its different etc but I found this with my old Rangie.

I'm also talking of my experience and it constasts completely with yours. The claims you are making do not make any sense. In fact they violate the laws of physics.

Originally Posted by tebone

For a start all wheel drive (4wd ) = 1 wheel drive. Rear drive (2wd) = 1 wheel drive. (older Rangies) without viscous coupling transfers etc.

This is incorrect.
2wd shares the driving force equally among two wheels. Total drive force is limited to 2x the grip of the wheel with the least traction.
4wd (with open diffs) shares the driving force equally among four wheels.
Total drive force is limited to 4x the grip of the wheel with the least traction.

My big diesel RRC (close to equal axle weights) spins up rear or front wheels roughly equally. It is only the dynamics of the situation that make the difference.
This shows I have roughly equal grip front and rear.

Having equal grip front/rear means as a 4wd I have double the usable traction that I would in only rwd.

Originally Posted by tebone

Remember, full time 4wd = 1 wheel drive. Its different if you have traction control and new technology but I'm talking about an old Rangie.

Again this is incorrect. Fulltime 4wd is full time 4wd and giving each wheel only 1/4 of the drive force.
2wd requires each wheel to take 1/2 of the total drive force. With the same traction, you can only apply have as much drive.

Originally Posted by yumastepside

I've had my housings slotted as well, but as it's not on the road yet, I have'nt had a chance to try the steering. I think the 2wd mods would be worth the effort........now, if only someone made a set of freewheeling hubs to fit the RRC .............A question ??......if one was to convert the LT230 to get 2wd, would you lose four wheel high range ??

Roger

Hi Roger, I haven't got free wheeling hubs. Converting to permanent rear wheel drive you don't loose all 4wd options. If you want 4wd just lock your centre diff as normal in low or high and it will be the same.
There's a lot of opinions out there and arm chair experts but do what's right for you.
Centre diff Mod
Remove centre diff and pull it apart and remove small spider gears off the cross shafts. The large spider gear that drives the rear drive shaft you need to weld this to the carrier. Secondly the front large spider gear that drives the front shaft this will free wheel. Only thing it can pop out. You need to weld a washer to one of your cross shafts making sure it has some clearance to the front spider gear which this will prevent it from popping out.
Hope this helps, Regards Paul

Originally Posted by Dougal

I'm also talking of my experience and it constasts completely with yours. The claims you are making do not make any sense. In fact they violate the laws of physics.



This is incorrect.
2wd shares the driving force equally among two wheels. Total drive force is limited to 2x the grip of the wheel with the least traction.
4wd (with open diffs) shares the driving force equally among four wheels.
Total drive force is limited to 4x the grip of the wheel with the least traction.

My big diesel RRC (close to equal axle weights) spins up rear or front wheels roughly equally. It is only the dynamics of the situation that make the difference.
This shows I have roughly equal grip front and rear.

Having equal grip front/rear means as a 4wd I have double the usable traction that I would in only rwd.



Again this is incorrect. Fulltime 4wd is full time 4wd and giving each wheel only 1/4 of the drive force.
2wd requires each wheel to take 1/2 of the total drive force. With the same traction, you can only apply have as much drive.

Ok Dougal, you might be right with the law of physics.
Why does my rangie always wheel spin with one wheel on grass, mud and tare when it was constant 4wd without the centre diff locked?
Going around a round about, Why does my rangie spin the front right tyre?

Originally Posted by tebone

Ok Dougal, you might be right with the law of physics.
Why does my rangie always wheel spin with one wheel on grass, mud and tare when it was constant 4wd without the centre diff locked?
Going around a round about, Why does my rangie spin the front right tyre?

Do you seriously need someone else to answer those questions?

Read again what I wrote above. All drive wheels push the same as the wheel with the least traction.
1 wheel on grass and 4wd means all four wheels pushing the same as the grassy wheel.
1 wheel on grass and 2wd means two wheels are pushign the same as the grassy wheel.

End result. 2wd vehicle has half the drive force and is possibly stuck. 4wd vehicle drives off no problem with twice as much traction.

Roundabout is exactly the same. Vehicle is still driving with 4x the grip of the spinning wheel.