Engine Running Rough, no idle.

It's the long weekend and I finally got round to the Range Rover.

At this point the distributor is out and I could see one of the hoses on the back of the water pump had been weeping. I've bought the new hose and so started by removing the old one.

The attached picture shows why the old hose was leaking. The flange on the back of the water pump is broken and has a good chunk missing. I dont fancy my chances of getting the new hose to seal properly against the broken flange.

Does this mean I need to replace the Timing Cover? The engine has a Suffix B engine number so I guess the timing cover, oil pump and oil pressure relief value are in one unit?

Any suggestions for where to find a new timing cover (Assuming that's what I need)? I'm Melbourne based.

If the timing cover has to come off should I be thinking about changing the timing chain/gears while I'm there?

Would appreciate some guidance.

Cheers ..... Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lidvii

The attached picture shows why the old hose was leaking. ............Does this mean I need to replace the Timing Cover?

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http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...idle-snap1.jpg

The short answer is that you can resleeve it .... It depends on how capable you are tho ....

Suggestion is .....
1: You can just remove the water pump and then you will see the outlet hole.
2: Looking at your picture >> Cut the corroded outlet short (Not flush tho)...
3: Down at the hardware store ... Find a Brass extension (from the Plumbing section) ... Thread on 1 end ... Barb on the other (Water pipe connector)
4: Drill and Tap a thread through the hole through the water pump side
5: Install threaded brass tube ... reconnect rubber hose

The above is a rough guide only .... You will need to remember the sealant for threads and abilty to do the job.

Suggestion number 2 is to remove the timing cover and take it to a marine fabricator and ask them to re weld (Build up with weld) the outlet.
Why a MARINE fabricator ? ..... they are use to and are experienced in rebuilding corroded cast aluminium all day long.

Cheers
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lidvii

If the timing cover has to come off should I be thinking about changing the timing chain/gears while I'm there?

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YES .... But get the original single row chain .... Not the U-Bute double row.


Cheers
Mike

It's January and six months have passed since the motor last ran.

Progress to date:

Distributor rebuilt
Bosch Ignition Module sourced
New (secondhand) Timing cover bought (thanks Bee Utey)
New timing gears, timing cover gasket, water pump, heater hoses and radiator hoses bought.
Removed the thermostat housing and old thermostat.
I've stripped the front of the engine down to expose the timing gears.

Questions:

1. My new Crankshaft timing gear has plastic teeth. The old one is all metal. Have I bought a cheap one that will let me down?
2. The motor is at TDC. Looking from the front of the engine the timing chain on the right side of the pulleys is tight. On the left side of the pulley it is loose and there is a lot of play, perhaps 20mm of movement. Do I really need to replace the timing chain or could I leave things as they are?
3. The old thermostat housing is corroded where the hose used to clamped on to it. I'm not sure the new hose will seal against the pitted surface. Can I fill the pits with epoxy and sand it back smooth or should I be off to buy a new thermostat housing?

I'm hoping I am near the end of the tear down process and can start adding the new components. Hopefully it takes me less than 6 months to get it all back together. I haven't set any records so far!

Paul

Factory timing gears used to all be plastic around alloy, on a stocky motor they went for ages. You should fit a new chain with the gears though, a waste of effort otherwise. While you're there get a new thermostat housing, much less risky than trying to use a bogged up one.

Today should have been the day that the motor ran again.

I've completed the rebuild and wiring for the Bosch Ignition but after refilling the radiator I now have water leaking from the back of the engine!

The water is dripping out pretty fast. 2 drops every 10 seconds or so.

I can see a puddle of coolant in the V between the 2 rocker covers at the back of the engine.

But I cant see where is it leaking from.

The Heater hoses run back there but I can see their joints and all are dry. I'm pretty sure the heater hoses are not to blame.

Where is the coolant most likely leaking from?

Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lidvii

Where is the coolant most likely leaking from?

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The inlet manifold gasket. It's either loose or damaged during installation.

Okay,

So the inlet manifold is leaking.

I guess If I look at where this thread started with the engine backfiring I'd have to assume that the pressure in the inlet manifold has caused the manifold seal to fail.

Certainly there was no coolant loss before the engine backfired.

I've read the manual and it looks straight forward to remove the plenum and ram housing. That should allow me to get the inlet manifold off and fit a new gasket.

Is there anything else I should be thinking about replacing while the top of the motor is in pieces?

Cheers ........ Paul

Just searching the for the parts to buy and it looks there are 2 or more types of inlet manifold gasket.

GASKET - MANIFOLD - ROVER V8 (INLET)(CURVED)(COMPOSITE)
[IMG]http://pg.b5z.net/get/lb5z/s50-*/zirw/1/i/u/6064257/i/ec/ERC3990_-_2.png[/IMG]
GASKET - MANIFOLD - ROVER V8 (INLET)(TIN)

What should I be adding to my shopping cart?

Paul

I've used both the composite ones and the tin ones, the tin ones last longer but need a smear of sealant or a spray of gasket cement to help them not leak. The composite ones loosen their sealing layer after a fair while and always need at least one retension after fitting IMHO.

Almost ready to fit the Inlet Manifold Gasket. I bought the tin one.

It is a flat sheet of steel and needs to be curved to fit in place.

Is it as simple as letting the end clamps pull the gasket into shape as you fit it or is there a better way?

Paul