Thread: Decisions, decisions, which dual battery system??

If that was the case, then every car and other vehicle ever made would be overcharging their batteries and killing them. I'm pretty sure that every car manufacturer has a better grip on what goes on than you. Also, I run an auxiliary battery in the back of my L322 - which doesn't get used at all now as my camping is done in the 101. That battery is still in A1 condition despite it being connected to the alternator every day, day in, day out.

Just admit you're wrong - you are - that's not a personal attack, it's just a fact that is as provable as everything everyone's been trying to say.

Time to walk away - you're just making a fool of yourself.

There has been quite a bit showing that the charge rate drops when the battery is charged, you've just ignored them and plowed on in your own little world. Your comments about the relationship between voltage and current show you know nothing about the subject matter. You can't apply amps to your battery, it will only use what it needs. When your car is running the alternator supplies all the power to your accessories and engine - your battery can be fully charged and no power will get used from it unless you exceed the maximum current rating the alternator is good for by running huge loads - like about 10 driving lights. Hope that resolves that for you.

How do I know my aux battery is good? Regular testing with a refractometer. The specific gravity of the acid is a very good indicator. I also recently ran my fridge off it for the first time in over a year - ran it for 3 days and it was still going. A ****ed battery couldn't do that.

Enough for you or are you going to drivel on about that not being proof? Anyway, I thought you said you weren't going to comment here any more? I'm sure some here would appreciate that.

please, walk away and take a breath.
You are arguing with people who know this subject extremely well and, from some of the comments in your posts, you seem to be misunderstanding the material you are reading.
To have a few moderators warn you to cool it, I think that would be a good enough reason to take a break.

Good grief mate, you have the persistence of an anti vaxxer.

For Sake, This was posted at 21.30 last night , and I still find myself as a moderator 24 hours later having to read every post in this thread . Its turned into the same crap dribbling thread that others of a similar topic have turned into with the original question getting totally lost.

Give it a rest

That's my 2c worth.

Cheers Ean

what is the single most important factor you have conveniently left out of those two paragraphs?

Once again, the comments relate to charging with a battery charge because alternators do not go into FLOAT mode.

So again, what is the single most important factor you have conveniently left out of those two paragraphs?

It takes at least many weeks but more like months OF CONSTANT CHARGING, in FLOAT mode, to dry out an AGM battery.

Once again, you are just demonstrating how dangerous a person can be when they have a little knowledge about a subject they know nothing about.

In Australia, the average daily drive time for someone towing a caravan or driving a motor home is 2.5 to 4 hours.

When towing a camper trailer, it tends to be slightly more.

And even if your were like me up until 6 years ago, when I would drive for up to 10 hours straight, these times fall WEEKS short of the time needed to DRY OUT and AGM battery.

One more bit of totally irrelevant misinformation.

OMG !!!
you are referring to charging AGM batteries in a standby set up using a multistage float charger. Yes you and your information is correct.
Agm batteries do have a preferred setting on the charger, so do Gel and Calcium batteries
Cut off voltage for example on an agm is generally but dependent on size of battery 13.8volt for float and 14.9 volt for cycling. Higher voltage will result in and over charged, over gassed batteries, resulting in swelling and drying out. All true facts!
Look at this spec sheet for our 105 amp AGM battery. All this is proven fact from an actual battery manufacturer : [ame]http://www.yhipower.com.au/data/neutonpower/NPD121050.pdf[/ame]
A multistage charger set for calcium batteries goes up to 15.8/16 v before going to a float of between 13.5 /13.8 v. They have to go to this high voltage because ca/ca batteries do not gas much and need high voltage to make them gas and stir up the mix of acid and water, or you will get stratification which is a separation of acid and water resulting in a battery thats really acid down low on the grid causing the plate to be disintegrate.
I would also recomend anyone still awake or interested in actual facts about batteries and its not a bad idea to read these because it can stop further arguments happening like this again,
read this and dont argue ha ha .
Another proven fact :
RACQ - Battery Myths | Motoring | RACQ.
Yes I am being a smart ass but its time to put this to bed once and for all.
Game over !

No they dont go into float mode, but they are voltage regulated depending on the model of car and the condition of your wiring and in the case of an old classic rangie you would be lucky to get 14.5 volts at the battery. Best bet if you are really worried about using an agm in your car and this is a necessity with modern computer controlled systems that a dc to dc mutistage charger has to be used!