CORRECTION: the superflex thread is in the technical section
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ms-rovers.html
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CORRECTION: the superflex thread is in the technical section
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ms-rovers.html
I agree with Vern.
Spend your money once, spend it on Ashcroft gear, and reap the rewards of your expenditure.
Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app
So I'm looking at 31 spline setups, and atb centres.
Then I came across the the dana 60 (sals) conversion thread again, and re-read it
Costly, but a handy way to increase GVM capacity (& towing).
Not sure I'd do it unless I found a set, because that front diff is pretty damn rare as far as I can tell.
So that brings me back to GQ. I'm familiar with it. but the GQ housing is also prone to incorrect caster alignment and the very familiar nissan patrol death-wobbles when you hit about 80km/h, and while on a nissan it's fixed with new bushes and swivel pins, I'm still reluctant to further investigate this as a viable option.
Then I got to thinking about stupid things.... portal axles. Yeah yeah I know stupid. but the follow-up on tibus stuff hasn't occurred, and we know maxidrive don't do them and I could use mog or c303 portals.... but I'm not interested in doing 'conversions', and then it dawned on me....
can use the GQ diff and marks' adapters portals... and this might completely alter all the requirements for axle upgrades - when a reduction portal can take a 33-35" tyre, without extra axle loading, as well as give the necessary lift, without altering suspension geometry to the point where huge $ mods are required.
So this warrants some investigation, but I'm also looking into the strength of the front stub axles, if fitting the 24/31 spline axles.
more research to do....
So going from just wanting to do mild 4x4ing, to now going dana60 and portals, make ya mind up:p
Hi I agree with Vern, there's' not that much wrong with the land rover diffs/axles that would warrant expensive vehicle modifications and change out, and loose the character of what is a very comfortable &competent offroad car anyhow.
New ATBs, ( I think that's the acronym for torque sensing differentials ), LT 230 mechanical transfer case, some stronger axles and drive flanges and your good to go.
I never needed to replace a drive flange or CV or axle yet in 100,000 kms of driving and have done some good touring and mountain camping trips etc. If you take reasonable care the car will do almost anything. I spent a fair amount of time mountain touring in the company of a RRC, and was always amazed how comfortable and competent it was. ( Only spring and damper mods and bigger wheels ). Unless you want to go hard core the only other mod I would recommend is a winch. cheers simmo:cool:
Ah well, the investigation of replacement axles & portals was to see if it could solve all my drivetrain/suspension 'issues' (not issues per se, but more realistically 'desired outcomes') in one hit. Notably, but not restricted to:Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
1. extra clearance (ground)
2. extra clearance (can run 35's without needing spring/damper mods)
3. **** factor.
4. no need to go over the top with 300m axles, cv's and hubs.
5. other minor advantages (if for example, using the marks adapters portals, comes with dual brake callipers etc.)
disadvantages:
1. exhorbitant cost for what they actually are.
2. extensive modification required - significant additional costs over and above the portal axles.
3. engineers certificate req'd - insurance premium hike etc etc... (been there before, can't really say it's worth the hassle, even after it's all been done to compliance standards)
4.the RRC could end up looking like a humvee.
5. huge increase in unsprung mass.
Like I said earlier, I'm not an expert on the drivetrain components in rovers, so I'm simply doing my due diligence and canvassing/researching all options, of which some may not be exactly viable cost-wise.
Like all things, the benefits must / need to significantly outweigh the capital expenditure.
The end goal is longevity, robust reliability and to minimize the ongoing servicing cost, be that by safely extending the recommended service intervals or using HD/extended service life components.
Maxidrive / ashcroft axles, cv's stub axles seem to be the most effective solution at the moment.
Just need to work out exactly what specification I should fork out for - pay the extra for the big-spline or do I just go with proven 24 spline setups.
The things that worries me about the drivetrain is the additional stress a 33-35" tyre will place on the driveshafts and cv's / bearings etc.
Combined with the engine & trans swap, the additional torque and very quick revving engine may place torsional loads on parts which i would not expect to suffer any damage under normal circumstances.
I have not catered for any heavy towing (caravan) scenarios, and not intending to either. So I have taken on board the recommendations, and now need to ascertain if they are fit for purpose.
Would be good to know more info about the swivels etc though. It seems as though there are a number of options to enhance strength and reduce turning circle etc. anyone got slotted swivels or changed them for other types?
Merc,
Suggest you read Blackrangie's posts and the responses on here and Pirate 4x4, a lot has already been covered quite recently!
cheers, DL
Re-igniting this after months of indecision and procrastination...
Finally made the decision to go for e-lockers, hituffs, maxi drive flanges and ashcroft CV's. I realized I would not be happy with a heavily modified non-rover axle under the front or rear.
I've planned out the 33/35" upgrade, now I'm gradually accumulating parts, and was close to purchasing the springs, dampers and superior front arms this week but on Friday last week I got thrown a curveball, and my front left tyre copped one huge tek screw in the sidewall that was not repairable.
So, I ended up with some 245/70R16 Mickey baja STZ radials on the standard rims for the moment. Bummer really, as it was 1200 bucks I didn't really want to spend on tyres (had the KM2's sitting at home on offset rims, which I could have pulled had I been in a position to do that, but it was not possible), but realist in me reckons these will still be quite useful, at least until the lift goes in. Plus, someone else will benefit from a pay-it-forward when I offload a heap of good parts.
Nonetheless, this mishap paves the way for a staggered mechanical upgrade, which will not hurt my hip pocket so hard. First the LT230, then diff centres & axles / drive flanges etc, then later on a CW&P upgrade when the 33's and springs / cranked fronts go in.
It's become quite apparent that it is indeed all too easy to sink copious amounts of $$$$ into these vehicles without raising a sweat. However it is important to me to make it bulletproof (as possible within budget) so I do not have to worry about it out on a trail in the middle of nowhere.
It is going to take some time though. Given that I am methodically reconditioning every single item as I go, it is going to be a slow process. Slow, but enjoyable ;)
So my 93 is getting built with the following
Front 4.1 GBR reverse rotation cwp
Early arb locker maxi drive axles
Early Rangie cvs and outer axles
Vented slotted and dimpled rotors
Defender calipers
Rear has a macnamara conversion with Hilux centre
4.1 gears Detroit locker
30 spline macnamara axles
Need to bore stub axles to fit
All to run 33s 3.9 R380 and lt230 for a fast tourer to tackle anythingQuote:
Originally Posted by Lockee