Thread: wiring on a '92 classic

Well I don't know if the bundle you show is stock(ie hasn't been replaced) but I CAN tell you that all 92RRCs have a bundle of fusible links there, and it certainly looks to be stock and unmolested.


Regards Philip A

Oh there fuse links ... what a ****house idea. It's all quite deteriorated. Is this the only fusing or do I have to replace them with something like a fuse box (What a PITA !!).

EDIT: I've just seen your post, thanks Philip. Yes when I pulled it apart I found Fusable link" written on them. I'll have to leave it in place I guess. What a PITA... I'll try to re-route the links to a power post so I can get rid of the burnt odd connection on the battery terminal.

seeya,
Shane L.

Well I cut that burnt weird battery terminal connector off and mounted a battery post back here behind the coolant header tank. There was already a driving light relay and brake controller wiring there ... however on checking the brake controller wiring it only had a conductor diameter of about 1.4mm ..... sigh ..... How the hell would that carry enough current to apply 4 electric brake drums.

So I cut it all away and added the SC40 there, and from the battery post it's powering the headlight relay, brake controller, sc40, anderson plug etc.... This removes all the crappy connectors from the battery terminal.



My wife took one look at this and said "that looks ****house, I guess we want be selling this car either now your doing your dodgy work on it too" "It's colour doesn't even match".



The whole think only cost $25 bucks including the temp/volt meters ... and can be removed leaving no holes in the dash in about 5minutes...... I guess I could put some plastic dye on it to match the rest of the dash and see if the boss women approves ... I doubt i will though.

It's worth every cent though, I've already found out the factory temperature gauge is worse than useless as it gives you false confidence that everything is right. it reads "normal operating middle gauge" from 30degrees ... and doesn't appear to ever read high (the thermostat is obviously not working in this car). The other one is the slugomatic temperature. The two voltmeters. One is just powered by the accessories wiring, the other will be hooked to the 2nd battery and I'll just put a small switch beside it so it can be switched on/off separately to the rest of the car (so you can see how flat the 2nd battery is getting without powering up the car).

With the headlights on low beam and demister fans on I noticed first time I've driven the car that the voltage drops to 12.8volts ... sigh ... so either we have a sad alternator or there is over 1volt voltage drop in the dash wiring. I'll check later.

That tablet thing was in the car when I purchased it .... I'd have chucked it, only that would leave the mounting holes in the dash. Plus it has a rear camera that's really handy for hitch upto trailers and caravans.

seeya,
Shane L.

Well the thermostat was definitely no good .... So I grabbed another. Gee's it's a **** of a thing to get too on these cars. Anyway this car has always had a small leak somewhere ... maybe a tablespoon of coolant a week disappears. I know it's not being burnt as there it traces of bright green coolant under it occasionally.



It had a new radiator and low milage disco engine fitted at some stage in recent times. Whoever fitted the radiator left the hose on the water pump slightly loose... and the new radiator was weepy around the engine oil cooler.... So I soldered that up.

Before I fill it back up, is there any tricks I need to know to bleed the cooling system on this thing?

I wonder how many of these old cars are running around with dead thermostats given how incredibly flaky the temperature gauge is....

Oh yeah, I learnt something else too. I was wondering how on earth the slugomatic oil temperature was pretty much matching the coolant temperature. Given there is just a half assed looking cooler out on the front..... Well there radiator has an engine oil cooler in one tank, and an automatic cooler in the other tank. So there is a coolant -> gearbox cooler in series with the gearbox cooler infront of the radiator. I wonder what the idea of twin gearbox oil coolers is ?

seeya,
Shane L.

It's so the transmission oil doesn't get too cool.
The radiator increases temp to engine temp.

I don't really know why they have it as D2 autos do not have it, although D2 have a temp sensor that doesn't allow TC lockup until 70C or so.

They may also change shift parameters electronically when the engine is cold.
Regards Philip A