Projects

well I finally got something 'done'...

As I mentioned previously, I had fitted a replacement centre console to the rrc and a few other things.

Those 'few' other things ended up taking the best part of a fortnight to complete.

Here's a bit more detail.

Firstly, the centre console kept rubbing on the DIN mounting for the cd player so I had to remove the lower dash section. This also ended up becoming removal of all vents, the steering wheel, column surround, under-column section, carpet, and other ancillaries.
Stuff was trimmed, fabricated, glued, broken, re-glued, screwed and relocated to ensure no more squeaks rattles or creaks. Then I ended up removing the door trims, fitting some new speakers, running new speaker cables and as you'd know that comes with its' own kind of pain.
Then I recabled the main supply to the aux battery from the isolator with some new 000B&S cable, which is a PITA to route at the best of times, but with a holesaw, a step drill and a few salvaged wiring harness grommets from my old Mercedes, I managed to get that hunk of copper through to the back nice & neat.
I was never happy with the marine battery box, so I decided to drill holes in the rear floor area and used 2 battery anchors with some threaded rod and got the huge battery snugged down properly with absolutely zero movement.
I then went about refabricating and rewiring the aux battery accessories, so that everything had a switchpanel and circuit brakers as well as relays for isolation.
Added a few things and then rewired the rear tailgate light switch with an isolation switch to enable the interior lights to be switched off with the upper tailgate open.
Then the tailgate latch decided that was the right time to crap itself, so I spent another 3 hours removing, cleaning, fixing, refitting and adjusting the whole setup. it's smooth as a baby's now...

Fabricated a side-panel out of formply, as an interim measure until I work out how I'm going to setup the rear cargo area. The Engel is taking up quite a good amount of space, and I'm OK with that, but can think of a few more future alterations involving a custom made fridge slide and a couple of drawers beside the fridge. For now though, the rear is dine until I decide when and where I'll fit the 240v inverter sockets - they are not required at this point.

Then back to the front and I finaly fitted the redarc dual battery gauge, which wasn't too difficult, but does require tapping into the under dash wiring harness, which I did neatly, unlike previous butchers.
cleaned out the HVAC, cleaned the vent cowl and vents, sprayed the centre section with matt black for a contrast and it's made the dash look quite decent.
Used some single-sided closed cell foam tape on the dash sections to quiet things down a bit, and overall pleased with the result.

Then drove the thing down to Jervis NP for the day (yesterday) to check that everything was working properly. Fridge is good, accessories are working, stereo is finally audible and centre console doesn't squeak.

Floors have been given the once-over and I'll keep an eye on them to see how the killrust holds up, but it should be OK for quite some time.

Can think of plenty more things to work on, but right now, I can enjoy the car for a while until I get stuck into the world of transfer case and engine swaps....

I'm chasing springs but seems harder than expected. Got chassis ready for bushes etc springs in it have sagged. But, spoke to Andrew at LRA and given my requirements- a lighter 2 door, near stock height, no bull bar, no heavy towing, want that supple ride....he couldn't help. Best advice I could get was build it with old springs, then once completed put it on weigh bridge and go from there. Pity would be so easy to do now but am not prepared to buy new Dobsons on a "maybe" Andrew also said "s...mate been 30 years since I've supplied for something like that" not sure if that proves I am truly insane, or just progressive and this will catch on:)

Funny you should mention this..

Been trying to get my 88 rrc back near std heights with front and rear bars. Andrew was a big help.

I don't envy you trying to find an off the shelf solution...

Did rear brakes, wheel bearings yesterday.

discovered the extent of the RHS hub seal leak, wasn't horriffic, but wasn't good either - the inside pad was oilsoaked.

Anyway, I decided to replace all the bearings, convert to oiled and rebuilt callipers, new rotors etc. Was a solid day's work, everything went well, albeit a tad slowly.

Took it for a drive, to bed in the pads, brakes are great, no noises etc.

To my amazement, this morning the LHS hub seal appears to have leaked one drop of fresh gear oil onto the dustshield. Now, the seals used were double lipped, and installed correctly, and the stub had no grooves in the seal mating face. It's ironic that the RHS is not leaking, so I'm going to either have to pull the LHS off again, replace the seal, or the stub axle and the seal. although there should be no need to, as everythign was checked and assembly was careful.

I know it's only 1 drop, and the car has been sitting overnight with a slight lean to the left, but there should not be any leak from a brand new seal. A little disappointed considering how much care was taken to ensure everything was spot-on.

Yeah it is PIA you try and do it right but still... See photos below fitted engine/gearbox to chassis on weekend. Brand new genuine mounts. Today, I see one has split, so had to remove it. Now engine is sitting on block of wood while Andrew gets faulty one and sends a replacement. What to say he has never heard of genuine one failing like that, but hey that seems to be the LR way.. There is always a "first"[emoji51]Attachment 109545
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Well, You wouldn't read about it..... the drop of oil is no longer a drop.

self-healing, or maybe just a bit of the lube getting past the seal while it bedded in.
Nonetheless, I'm going to keep an eye on it.

I also have engine mounts on the agenda - but not this week....

More work!

This time ignition system.

For no other reason other than annoyance with the vehicle performance and a sporadic random decision to overhaul something for the sake of it, I took on the task of doing the BIM024 remote module transformer coil and upper distributor shaft retainer mod.

Nothing wrong with the dizzy or the module, I just wanted to get it away from the dizzy before it went south on me.

Like I said, Initially I was just going to do the coil and module, but after looking inside when re-gapping the reluctor coil, I decided to completely overhaul the dizzy.
It was a dog's beakfast inside, obviously had suffered from excessive oiling at some stage. I started by removing the excessive endfloat in the lower shaft section, then did the obligatory 4mm mushroom head socket screw 'retainer' instead of the nylon grommet.
A couple of mods to the counterweights, retainer and springs (think recurving) set the static and full advance timing and she's a beaut. Good for another 333,000km.
Having done a couple of GM units and being used to the star type reluctor, I was genuinely pleased to be able to adjust the gap to a nice and close 0.1mm and it's made a difference. I wouldn't have gapped it so close without overhauling the shaft first though.

So, now that it's been done and tested for 24 hours, I'm actually surprised to say it performs quite nicely. It's also disposed of a random high rpm surge which has been plaguing me for nearly 12 months. There is definitely a better spark, possibly a result of the new coil and bim024. Coil is HEC716 and appears to be quite adequate.

Also took some time to alter some other engine bay wiring, which was deemed inadequate. And then I pulled the alternator and gave that a once over and anew belt for good measure. Cleaned the MAF sensor, and the air filter housing while it was out of the way also.

Seems every time I look in the engine bay, I find a myriad of things that could do with a 'change'

Speaking of changes, the engine note has altered a little, especially on part throttle at lower rpm's. It sounds better, but that may simply be anecdotal as a result of fixing things.

I'm hoping there will be a minor improvement to the fuel economy - as soon as I stop 'testing' the throttle response ;)

If you are doing mounts Andrew at LRA was great swapped out faulty mount straight away. He reckons only genuine are any good

I've had them sitting in the 'parts bin' for quite some time - along with front end suspension & steering upgrades - plan is to get it all done in one big hit. But it will have to wait until I can muster up some time so I can take a few days off work.

Hi Mike,

Your 2 dr is coming along nicely and all your hard work, paitents and $$$ is paying off....but like you said in earlier posts you've come too far to stop or take shortcuts in the quality stakes at this stage in the project.

Having a affinity with a vehicle that took you and your family everywhere and was sold .... only to come accross her years later to now rebuild (better than new) is something that non Landie owners would'nt understand.

While most of us just dream of being able to do what you are doing it shows what can be done to make an awsome vehicle better by giving it a much needed boost in the power stakes and replacing those parts
that did'nt work well even when they were new.

Understand purest may not be happy .....but like all our RRC we do tweek them to suit ourselves but we can all appreciate your hard effort.

Can't wait to see her finished ......keep the post coming.

Cheers

Baggy

7 months off my project due to work and family about to get back into it.

Have a Rhino pioneer platform to go on.

Bought a 93 disco for parts so now dilemma rebuilt ZF or keep the R380.

Disco also had reversed rims with a good set of 33 all terrains so 2nd set sorted.

Have the Detroit locker in TOYOTA centre ready to fit into the LSE

Need to fit the fender calipers to the front