92 Classic Steering box

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1448676102

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1448676102

Well I manage to source and LT230 locally .... Yes I'm sure everyone noticed right away the problem I was to dopey to notice until today.

Anyway, I've been trying to read up on this conversion, all I can find is I "may" need a new output shaft in the slugomatic gearbox .... and "may" need a disco front driveshaft. We'll see I guess. The LT230 above is apparently from a slugomatic V8 disco.

[img]http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1448676102

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1448676102

The borg warner transfer case look remarkably clean externally. mouse **** and all :)

I've also read about "drilling out the center" of the tranny tunnel ... whatever that means .... Well, any that was quite obvious if you remove the console.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1448676467

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1448676467

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1448676467

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1448676467


Other than the fact I was to stupid to notice the selector and diff lock mechanism isn't there ..... What other checks do I need to do on the LT230 before fitting ? It appears the input shaft spline is good. Do I need to check the output shaft spline ?

The guy I bought it from also has all the bits there to do a 5spd conversion ..... Damn it all, I just don't have the $$$ at the moment :(

seeya,
Shane L.[

I feel really dumb for not noticing a week ago ............... can someone tell me what size SPLINE socket I need to remove the transfer case :angel: I have Etorx sockets, A/F, single hex, metric, male torx, male splines, male alan ..... but no bloody female spline sockets :wasntme:

seeya
Shane L.
PS: I wanna repeatedly kick the arse of whoever tightened the prop shaft nuts front and back. TIGHT .... damn, so tight I rounded one and had to grind down a 1/4 single hex socket to fit.... then use adapters to go out to half inch ratchets to get the leverage to loosen it. How on earth had the bolts not sheered !!

Yeah well I sure aren't bright .... I thought this bolt was a spline. It's a double hex (I've never come across one of these bolts before and I've been working on cars since I was 12years old !! ).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1449056650

anyway. I learnt another thing... I dropped the gearbox down onto the gearbox crossmember and dropped the transfer case off

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1449056650

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1449056650

Yeah, don't do that ... the output shaft is longer than you think, and you'll end up with the transfer case snared on the output shaft. Output shafts aren't designed to have this sort of load placed on them.

Anyway, I'll just remove the gearbox crossmember and drop it out on the weekend.

I still need to chase up a 'cv joint and a selector for the top of the LT230 .... Just as well I'm never in a hurry to get stuff done :)

seeya,
Shane L.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Well in typical "ME" fashion.... All I had to do was ignore it long enough and the problem become blatantly obvoius. As I left work, the front end gave two louds CRACKS in a straight line ....... Really, really obvious CV joint failure sounds ( I own lots of front wheel drives and have had driveshaft failures before).

seeya,
Shane L.

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... which is why, as soon as I became aware that 'Sarah' was taking a wider course on Round-A-Bouts... that I removed the front prop shaft and stored it in the back....

Now, as a RWD I can drift the back end out as I hoon 'round the corners and bendy-bits....

- Betcha you carnt do that in YORS !!!! :eek::eek::eek:

Seriously, 'Vicious' Couplings are well known for shortning the lives of front CVs, uni's on the shaft and front diffs.
- Not to mention your wallet !

They almost never die in the open mode.... Pity.

On a Classic, the output shaft (to the rear prop shaft) tends to wear a lot faster than on a P38, which prefers to chew the 'Morse' chain.- so I've been told... :(

James in Gosnells,

'95 Vogue, RWD SE with working air suspension.
- Don't mention the leaky sunroof....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by superquag

... which is why, as soon as I became aware that 'Sarah' was taking a wider course on Round-A-Bouts... that I removed the front prop shaft and stored it in the back....

Now, as a RWD I can drift the back end out as I hoon 'round the corners and bendy-bits....

- Betcha you carnt do that in YORS !!!! :eek::eek::eek:

Seriously, 'Vicious' Couplings are well known for shortning the lives of front CVs, uni's on the shaft and front diffs.
- Not to mention your wallet !

They almost never die in the open mode.... Pity.

On a Classic, the output shaft (to the rear prop shaft) tends to wear a lot faster than on a P38, which prefers to chew the 'Morse' chain.- so I've been told... :(

James in Gosnells,

'95 Vogue, RWD SE with working air suspension.
- Don't mention the leaky sunroof....

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It failed when I was towing a caravan ..... so didn't spot that it was scrubbing tires :(

seeya,
Shane L.

well I dropped the borg warner transfer out finally.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1449889256

I was surprised to find the output gear looked quite good.... I was expecting it to be trashed.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...7&d=1449889256

So I used a torch to have a look at the input gear ................ And it has a cross drilled input gear .... I thought only really late LT230's had that (the disco one here doesn't that I'm about to fit). So I figured this BW has been rebuilt.... So I whipped off the viscous unit to check it.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...6&d=1449889256

[img]http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=102935&d=1449889256/img]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...4&d=1449889256

You know, there no external signs of leakage or failure. I reckon this box may well be a milage recent rebuild ( though likely many years ago... I don't think this car has done a lot of miles in recent times).

Do you think towing a block of flats from Healesville -> Kinglake spending 40minutes at low speed winding from steering lock to stearing lock tricked this into locking up and trashing the driveline :confused:

Oh well, it's getting an LT230 either way. If anyone wants this transfer case let me know. I'll whip in in half and check the chain for wear if anyone wants to use it.

seeya,
shane L.

Ok, so I've definitely trashed the input seal on the transfer case. probably trashed the output seal on the transmission too. I've just screamed abuse at the bloody thing for an hour trying to get the transfer case on ..... No go, the LT230 is way narrawer so much easier to get in and out of place the the borg warner. No matter what I try I can't get the bloody thing to slide on though. I'm guessing I have the angle slightly wrong, the rotation slightly wrong, or the transmission versus transfer case angle slightly wrong. A few times I managed to get the splines to line up and partially slide on by turning both output shafts on the transfer case. No I haven't got a a dowel in both the gearbox and transfer case ( I haven't managed to get it that close yet).

I'm guessing the trick is having an assistant to tell you exactly which way it needs to go while your trying to fit it?

Can anyone tell me the size of the LT230 input seal ........................... Maybe there cheaper by the dozen .... 'Cos I sure a **** reckon I"ll need a dozen of the bastards before I get this pig back together :wasntme:

seeya,
Shane L.

Sounds like you're not using guide pins. Cut the heads off two 150mm long M10 bolts and screw them in one on each side into the back plate of the trans, unscrew the pins and fit those two bolts when its all together. The guide pins ensure the output spline can't touch the seal in the transfer case. Make sure all the hand brake components are removed, makes it loads easier to handle. Engage high range and cdl before fitting so you can turn either output flange to engage the input splines.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

Sounds like you're not using guide pins. Cut the heads off two 150mm long M10 bolts and screw them in one on each side into the back plate of the trans, unscrew the pins and fit those two bolts when its all together. The guide pins ensure the output spline can't touch the seal in the transfer case. Make sure all the hand brake components are removed, makes it loads easier to handle. Engage high range and cdl before fitting so you can turn either output flange to engage the input splines.

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That's an excellent idea. I'm assuming you use very long bolts so you can double nut them to remove and fit the bolts back in.

I might try slinging the Transfer case through the floor from the engine crane rather than beneath with the trolley jack. If it wasn't so awkward laying under the car I could just lift it on by hand!

seeya,
Shane L.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

That's an excellent idea. I'm assuming you use very long bolts so you can double nut them to remove and fit the bolts back in.

I might try slinging the Transfer case through the floor from the engine crane rather than beneath with the trolley jack. If it wasn't so awkward laying under the car I could just lift it on by hand!

seeya,
Shane L.

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No need to double nut them, just cut a slot across the end and screw them out, they should be little more than finger tight. HT bolts are better than mild steel all thread as you can rest the weight of the transfer on them and they slide better.

To raise a transfer case, bolt a flat plate under the box using some short bits of flat steel off the angled bottom plate attachment bolts, and a trolley jack. Better still fit an extended sump, the finned alloy thing, that works well on a regular trolley jack. When my mate and I changed the viscous tc out of his '94 soft dash, refitting the LT230 took us mere minutes with these helpful bits.