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The other car has one of those valves. There is another solenoid on the chassis, and probably another on each of the scuba tanks. I'll check there flow of direction and spin them around if I need to. Thanks for that. I assumed a solenoid ... any gas solenoid would stop the gas. I didnt' realise you needed a dedicated lock off solenoid (I guess I should have asked my uncle this stuff. He's retired now but spent the last 20years doing gas conversions).Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
The valve on the chassis is probably not a solenoid valve but a tee connector valve with a relief valve. Spring loaded tank lock solenoids need only a mesh filter to be legal and are designed so that any high pressure generated in the supply line can easily bleed back into the tank. This happens when you park your vehicle over a patch of sun roasted bitumen in high summer and heat soak gets to the contents of the liquid line. Tee connector valves have a relief valve built in for the line forwards to the engine as they can't pass LPG back to either tank.
BTW they aren't "scuba" tanks, really, confusing a Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus tank with a smallish LPG tank is very sloppy terminology. It's like calling your pride and joy a jeep or something similar. ;)
:Rolling: :Rolling: I know there not scuba tanks .... It just what everyone calls them ... so people know what you mean if you say it. If you say "twin tanks mounted underneath" you'll get a blank look from most people :)Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
The chassis one is mounted on on a bracket under the front door. You know it could even be a lock off solenoid. I'll need to double check.
I'm getting random petrol fumes too. So I'll need to get under the back and see how it all fits. The charcoal canister under the bonnet has been removed and the lines blocked. So I'm assuming the ~40litre tank mounted in the back corner must have it's own breather pipes ... that may be disconnected (it could be a poor tank cap seal too, 'cos it often smells going around left hand corners). I thought those ULP filler caps were generally pretty fume proof though (unlike the fuel filler caps on pre-80's cars).
I'm also guessing the fuel gauge on the dash shows the fuel level in the little tank that's been added ?
seeya
Shane L.
ULP caps wear out just like any mechanical device. I throw a few away every year. The fuel gauge sender is part of the entire fuel pump assembly in the auxiliary tank so yes, the dash gauge will read petrol level.
The charcoal canister is an integral part of the breather system, trace the pipes and see how many are disconnected under the vehicle. I've seen plenty of really dodgy aux tank installs, nothing there would surprise me. If you can fit up another canister it won't harm the vehicle and it stops those fumes wafting in your nose. Sometimes owners stuff their aux tanks to the top of the filler tube and then the charcoal canister fills up with liquid petrol and drips down the inner guard. Don't be tempted to emulate these people, fit a sill tank if you want to carry more petrol.
Happy to donate a 93 Charcoal Canister to the cause
Thanks for the offer, I'm going to crawl around under it and see what is going on first. There is a drain plug on the bottom, so if I need to drop the tank to see what is what, it's not a big deal :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockee
seeya,
Shane L.
A bit off topic but very much in keeping with " I must be insane" got quote from panel shop to rebuild body etc it was 😳😳😂😂😂 but even more insane I said do it! Just want it done!
Cool, start a new thread with before & after pics!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Meccles
What are you rebuilding the body on :confused: I'd paint a classic myself. You can unbolt all the body panels quite readily to swap out heavily damaged panels ( just like a Citroen DS ). I'd have to bog 'em all though, 'cos I wouldn't want to try and work aluminium for fear of work hardening it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meccles
The Rangies previous owner came down and collected his plates last night... With the OMVL converter he reckons it's down on power at high revs ... I thought it was running to lean at high revs in the other one too (it would stone wall and die at 4500rpm) So I'll screw the power valve out a quarter of a turn at a time and see how it works out. I'll also adjust the idle in half a turn to. You see when warm it can sometimes oscillate. Rev to 1500rpm ... drop back to 300rpm .... roar back to 1500rpm .... As the stepper motor desperately drives itself in and out, always massively overshooting and never settling. Flicking it to petrol instantly bring the idle to a rock steady 800rpm. flicking straight back to gas is then fine as the idle has stabilised. What I'll do is adjust the idle screw on the mixer 1/4 turn at a time and see if I can get it to settle itself. I reckon it'll be slightly rich on the idle circuit, that's why it doesn't do when it's cold.
Anyway I went inside to find my 3year really upset. He was saying "No daddy fix the Range Rover" ..... He's worked out if the number plates are removed from a car..... We no longer drive it :Rolling: . And the previous owner just took his numberplates back. He LOVES riding around in the old cars, I'd already put the baby seat in it and taken him for a ride.
seeya,
Shane L.
I run out of time trying to do everything myself and also accept that some things - paint and panel for one, others are much better than I am at it. Re a new thread gotta visit Incisor soon for lessons on embedding photos. But yeah being going on for 3 years now. This year is big push/ expenditure to get all collected bits fitted😀