Oh and it's not exterior panels that need work. It is all cancer underneath. Will end up with two out of 10 original body/chassis mounts left. New rear crossmember/sills/ light boxes etc etc
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Oh and it's not exterior panels that need work. It is all cancer underneath. Will end up with two out of 10 original body/chassis mounts left. New rear crossmember/sills/ light boxes etc etc
I'm currently working on the 110. I've been very surprised how well the alloy straightens out with 1000s of light taps.
I've tried straightening a Citroen DS aluminium bonnet in the past ...... It was a HUGE failure for me :( You see I had a HIGH spot I just couldn't get "low/level" and didn't have a torch to try shrinking ( aka: overheating and destroying) it with :wasntme:
Anyway, the idle cycling problem on the Rangie ..... I opened the power valve in the vapour line by 1.5turns and the idle is now as good as petrol.... I think we have picked up the top end too :banana: I find it highly unlikely this will make fuel economy worse than the already "****house" economy they get :D
seeya
Shane L.
Well I finally got around to fitting that temperature gauge. I picked a nice spot next to the steering wheel to the left a bit where you can see it. Yep, straight through to find 1/3rd of the hole has a metal dash structure behind it :bangin:
Anyway, can we fit the earlier dash top to one of these with the round gauges in them?
eg:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/01/116.jpg
It would allow you to put some nice gauges in there without drilling holes in the damn dashboard. It's not biggie eitherway, I need to chase up a better dashtop as this one is all melted. I need to break out the soldering iron too. There is quite a few of those crappy plastic crimp on joiners around the place. My experience with these is they fall apart. There is a couple of switches under the steering column to open the fuel flap and disable the central locking (brilliant idea or what ... so if ti's cycling and driving you nuts, you just shut the power off to it :) ). They look well crimped but in typical crimp on terminal style fashion the wires fell out of the crimps when I dropped the bottom of the steering column down. Lots of soldering for me again in the future at some point.
I need to pull the dash out to throw the LT230 in... the A/C leaking away I can coudl "sort of" smell the gas up under the dash, so the evaporator can come out too :) All fun right :D Fix everything once ... forget about it in the future.
seeya,
Shane L.
Hi Shayne
Have a look in the gallery under my name and you will see pics of my rangie with holes drilled and vdo gauges fitted. Yes there is metal behind the dash..did this on my 89 rangie as I liked them on my 82 model. Not a hard job.
I got good at removing the dash as well got it down to 45 mins to get it apart to take aircon out..several times chasing leaks and replacing , repairing heater box and core.
Glad your having fun!!:):):)
The only way I learn is my mistakes :) I ovalised out the hole straight away with the hole saw when I hit the metal (it's not a metal cutting saw) so the hole is to big for the gauge ..... sigh... Fun right :) (we need a head butting brick wall smiley here :D ). I'm not concerned, I'm sure someone in town will have an un-butchered, un-melted dash top somewhere :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradtot
I'll pull the dash out and repair as much of the broken plastic as I can soon ... when I do the A/C and LT230 conversion.
seeya,
Shane L.
:wallbash: You mean like this one?
Working on rangies is fun, once you have done everything, it's fun the second time as you know how to do it.:arms:
Yes, and everything is pre-broken for you in all the required places too :wallbash: :D >>> Yes that's the smiley I need :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Corgie Carrier
I thought I better look at the A/C and check the wiring under the dash ... Do you get the feeling I'm putting off pulling it apart to fit the LT230 as much as possible :wasntme:
Anyway, the center console came out very easily ('cos it's already broken into several parts for me :oops2: Hey the part of the dash/console that the radio is fitted to is even easier .................. 'cos it was already in about 4 bits :Rolling:
anyway, only a few self tappers holding the tunnel cover in ... so I whipped that out.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454139462
I just whipped the cover off the spring unit (I'd already googled this and was aware of the issue).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454139462
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454139462
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454139462
It does look robust enough ... I wonder why it breaks? All it is a spring stop.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454139718
I just braced it up with a metal bracket I found.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454139718
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454139718
I can now select gears easily.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454139718
The A/C unit dropped out quite easily. I just unscrewed it where required. pulled the drains off and dropped it down. If you break off the tar like insulator around the TX valve you will find both hose connections .... There was no gas at all left there when I unscrewed the connectors :eek: It would only be a month ago I filled it !