If the engine its original (matching numbers) go the rebuild route. Restore to original and the rrc will appreciate in value at the same rate the i35 will depreciate!
I think it's important to understand that cars have to be a decision made from the heart, not the head, so I would keep the Rangie and sort the motor.
Personally, I'd buy a reconditioned motor from a LR specialist and swap it over myself.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
If the engine its original (matching numbers) go the rebuild route. Restore to original and the rrc will appreciate in value at the same rate the i35 will depreciate!
Cheers, BDave.
Replace "You are...!", with "Are you...?"
Army Land Rover Buyers Guide.
buymilitaryvehicles.com
Reunited with RFSV 51 680, 'Sleazy'!!
'00 VeryDisco TD5 Auto,
Nanocom Evo for D2 TD5 and Puma
Gone:RFSV, 51-699, Carryall 48-358.
The 3.5 is an easy engine to rebuild by any decent engine reconditioner. And you could give it better compression heads cam etc so it makes a bit more power. No need to TOP hat these engines.
Hi All,
I've checked with a mechanic that has done some work on a Discovery "1" I owned a number of years ago.
He's quoted $3.9K to rebuild engine with me supplying all parts....that does include machining the heads and crankshaft.
He won't give it a guarantee (once rebuilt) as I've supplied parts that are to him an unknown quantity. .......
To me that's seems expensive ........
Rok_Dr has sent me some names of several repairers in Perth (Thanks again) whom will come back to me with cost on rebuilding a 3.5 V8 engine.
We'll see what they come back with .........
Cheers
Baggy
for that money if you dropped of your complete engine you should get a crated completely rebuilt ready to drop in engine.
you dont need any super special landrover secret handshake knowing engine builder to do a 3.5V8 the only engine simpler to rebuild is the 2.25
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
if money is short .... just find a strong 3.9 for a couple of hundred and stick in there.... Not a lot of labour and throw the 3.5 in the back of the shed .... It can always be rebuilt in the future if you wantJust put some oil down the plug holes and roll it over a few times!
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
If I don't get a response from Joe Woods soon to take it away, there will be a RRC 93 chassis with runner 3.9 available in Beeliar (Dave Dover said over 12 months ago that it was in pretty good nick then). My friend of a friend is getting very impatient to get it moved out of his back yard.
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
I had a strong 3.5 carby ... and now a couple of 3.9's on LPG. With the timing cranked around to about 12degrees on gas .... the 3.9 way outperform the wheezy 3.5 in every way.... It's the way I'd go
Just grab a 3.9 from a disco ... If you do well, you might get an R380 bolted to it to fit as well
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
For any labour intensive work (eg engine rebuilds) I always get the mechanic to supply the parts as if the part fails then the rectification is at their cost. Most mechanics I've used are happy to use parts you supply but if they fail it's at your cost to replace, which I think is fair. Further leaving it all the the mechanic avoids a round robin of finger pointing as to whether the part or the workmanship was at fault.
If money is tight then go the route suggested by Shane.
Cheers
Steve
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks