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Thread: Show us your RRC bonnet Vents

  1. #11
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    Don't have any stats. Can see heat haze coming out when stationary so it's letting heat out and driving didn't get hot with standard RR rad and stroked and cammed p76 so that's good enough for me.
    1986 Range Rover Hiline
    2004 D2 TD5

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Isn't the bottom of the windscreen a high pressure area (that is why air intakes are put there). So you would be trying to push more air under the bonnet at speed exacerbating cooling issues not fixing them Should work well stationary in traffic though

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Most overheating is at low speed with no high pressure area. I think venting the heat at slow speed will fix most problems

  3. #13
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    My issue seems to be a little different. Whilst I've yet to have the pleasure of towing my 3T+ brick with the Rangie (which hopefully will be home soon after many $ spent on ABS, EAS and 4HP24) I have little doubt that I will have the same issue as with the D2a ie generating much heat whilst highway towing, and on a hot day problems letting that heat escape from under the bonnet (both cars have a TD5).
    Hence my particular interest! Luckily I have both Nanocom for coolant temp and EGT gauge for t'other, plus trans cooler in D2.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    My issue seems to be a little different. Whilst I've yet to have the pleasure of towing my 3T+ brick with the Rangie (which hopefully will be home soon after many $ spent on ABS, EAS and 4HP24) I have little doubt that I will have the same issue as with the D2a ie generating much heat whilst highway towing, and on a hot day problems letting that heat escape from under the bonnet (both cars have a TD5).
    Hence my particular interest! Luckily I have both Nanocom for coolant temp and EGT gauge for t'other, plus trans cooler in D2.
    For super hot days etc, you can wire your air con fans to a dash switch so you can run your fans without aircon. Dropped my temps by 10 degrees in my 4.6L 89 RRC on deep fraser sand middle of a hot day. Windows down 😎

  5. #15
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    I was supposed to be doing some testing on this as far as high and low pressure areas around the bonnet goes, but I've been too busy with the 101 getting it ready for Corowa so the RRC has taken a back seat for the moment. I'll drag it out when I get back and have a play. I have bought a new bonnet vent for it, but be buggered if I can find it tonight - I'm sure it will turn up...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  6. #16
    350RRC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackrangie View Post
    For super hot days etc, you can wire your air con fans to a dash switch so you can run your fans without aircon. Dropped my temps by 10 degrees in my 4.6L 89 RRC on deep fraser sand middle of a hot day. Windows down 😎
    EL thermo fans do the same thing, and have done the same thing for me for the last 5+ years.

    350 and stock RRC rad.

    cheers, DL

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    EL thermo fans do the same thing, and have done the same thing for me for the last 5+ years.

    350 and stock RRC rad.

    cheers, DL
    Yep had the same, I was referring to fans auxiliary to the thermos most modified rangies run on engine side, you end up with 2 push fans/2 pull fans when the going gets very tuff, also run a switch for your thermos for deep crossings with a flashing light or buzzer to remind to turn back on. Doesn't cost much and most of the parts are allready in the car.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackrangie View Post
    Yep had the same, I was referring to fans auxiliary to the thermos most modified rangies run on engine side, you end up with 2 push fans/2 pull fans when the going gets very tuff, also run a switch for your thermos for deep crossings with a flashing light or buzzer to remind to turn back on. Doesn't cost much and most of the parts are allready in the car.
    The conderser fans are useless compared to "sucker" fans with a shroud. I had the grill out of mine last weekend checking the wiring to the fans. They blow hot air forward from the tips of the fans ( ie: not all air is directed back through the radiator, it gets blown around everywhere). Where as the EL fans will force every last bit of air to be drawn through them and exhaust out into the engine bay. They would be 1000% more efficient than the pusher fans without a shroud.

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
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  9. #19
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    Just remembered something that may help - when I went for my first test run, things started to get hot. When I got home and let the engine cool, I restarted it and let it run up to temp in the driveway - on about a 35 degree day - it got to temp and sat there rock solid, no dramas.

    The secret.... I had the bonnet up... . When I closed it, the temp crept up again, so if you are having persistent problems, just leave the bonnet at home...

    It did prove how awful these things are at removing the heat under the bonnet - there is bugger all room for the hot air to escape.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    The conderser fans are useless compared to "sucker" fans with a shroud. I had the grill out of mine last weekend checking the wiring to the fans. They blow hot air forward from the tips of the fans ( ie: not all air is directed back through the radiator, it gets blown around everywhere). Where as the EL fans will force every last bit of air to be drawn through them and exhaust out into the engine bay. They would be 1000% more efficient than the pusher fans without a shroud.

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Again I was refering to having them running as well as the thermo fans on the engine side, so you get 4 fans i have done this and it works, if you set up your cooling right you should rarely need it but its for those extreme scenario's

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