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Thread: Question - RRC and Long Range Tanks

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    I have a TJM 120L (about 128L when neck filled up) on my LSE (with EAS) which required the removal of the rear bar. The extra weight of the tank and fuel easily compensated and I noticed no difference in the handling. Mind you, I've since removed the front one, too, which does affect handling but I drive quite sedately (as you do with a diesel!)
    BUT, a tip for young players: the fuel pump location in the new tank will almost certainly not line up with the access hole in the floor. It is a simple procedure to create a new hole and you will probably find a cover plate from a wreck or easily fabricate a new one. If you don't do this and your in tank pump fails, you will have to drain and drop the tank which is a real pain. Oh, and you may need to lengthen the sender arm and play around with it a bit so that your gauge accurately reflects the fuel level.

    . . . It doesn't do it now, so why change things ?

  2. #12
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    Did you find a way to put your long range in with the EAS? I have a long range tank sitting in the shed that I would like to use if I can but I will not remove the EAS.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chivalry View Post
    Did you find a way to put your long range in with the EAS? I have a long range tank sitting in the shed that I would like to use if I can but I will not remove the EAS.
    Why would you have to remove the eas to fit a long range tank? Sill tanks yes, but long range no

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chivalry View Post
    Did you find a way to put your long range in with the EAS? I have a long range tank sitting in the shed that I would like to use if I can but I will not remove the EAS.
    Fitting a long range tank would appear to be a lottery, with anything up to 120L potentially fitting without affecting EAS, but??? The one I looked at was just too close to call without actually trying to fit it, and yes would have required a mod to the sway bar. Has since been sold, so back to square 1. I do have the luxury of 1 x 45L sill tank, plus a 28L version for water.
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  5. #15
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    But how does it affect the eas?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    But how does it affect the eas?
    I didn't think it would, nor can I see how ie no different to loading up the rear, and no need to relocate any EAS parts. Suggestion otherwise may have been posted by another as I recall?

    I'm still on the lookout for a larger tank that will fit as a replacement without any other mods, but guess I should be happy with 95L in D2 main and 45L in sill with TD5 fuel pump in sill tank to transfer to main tank (takes about 20 - 30 mins if I recall).
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  7. #17
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    I have 120 in the back and 45 each sill in my LSE, but i don't run eas, so i could remove the eas pump from under the sill.
    Swaybars i just dropped the mounts 50mm and moved them forward.

  8. #18
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    What I meant was, if fitting a long range tank while keeping EAS meant modifying the sway bar, sway bar mounts or any other components that would effect the operation of the EAS, was that I would prefer to not fit a long range tank. I don't have a LSE and I want to keep the EAS so as far as I am aware, fitting sill tanks without a lot of modification is not possible.

    Do you recall what type/brand of long range tank that was Gavin? Looking at the one I have and looking under the car makes me think mine would fit but it looks very close. I'm quite sure the access hatch in the boot floor will also become irrelevant for the long range.

  9. #19
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    120L long range tank will fit if you lower the sway bar mounts. 1 sill tank will fit, the other won't due to the eas compressor, unless you move it.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chivalry View Post

    Do you recall what type/brand of long range tank that was Gavin? Looking at the one I have and looking under the car makes me think mine would fit but it looks very close. I'm quite sure the access hatch in the boot floor will also become irrelevant for the long range.
    Sorry don't know the model. Was sold by a member on here some months ago.

    As noted, I have a 45L sill fuel tank on the LHS? (filler opposite side to the normal fuel entry point in the rear wheel well, and a 28L water tank on the other side - also filled via the wheel well - I guess to take advantage of the ability to EAS lift the body out of the way for refilling access. Which, without me being near to the car to check, suggests a smaller tank on the RHS water side to overcome having to move EAS stuff. I'll double check locations next time I visit Bessie (QE II luxobarge)
    Cheers Gavin
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

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