Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 49

Thread: Question - RRC and Long Range Tanks

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Woolgoolga
    Posts
    7,870
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have a body lift and a 120L tank, i pushed the tank up as far as i could, i wouldn't want it hanging down any lower.

    Also, they pop up secondhand from time to time.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,742
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    1. Ditch the sway bar at the same time as you look at slightly stronger springs to hold up the tank's extra weight.

    2. Lower the sway bar pivots using spacer blocks so that it clears the long range tank.


    Sounds good, but I have EAS thatvI want to retain.
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    1,016
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Sounds good, but I have EAS thatvI want to retain.

    If you use a spacer block on the bar mount, You can retain the bar and it won't affect the operation. The bar still retains it's torsional rigidity, it simply swings in a slightly repositioned arc.

    I have the bars on my RRC and coils, and I'll still retain the bar, but have considered a quick disconnect setup for the offroad work.

    I've seen the LRA setup, and it's clever use of common parts - torsion bar, locking hub and a blade type arm, and a setup like that would be fairly straightforward, but not the cheapest setup.

    Still, it's likely to be cheaper if you have the fabrication skills, to DIY a solution similar to that. I nearly dropped dead when I saw the ridiculous amount LRA were demanding for them. There's value, sure, but it falls well short of the almost $2K theyre asking. They obviously don't want to sell any.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Woolgoolga
    Posts
    7,870
    Total Downloaded
    0
    When you find a swaybar disconnect that works, post it up! Obviously not the $2000 one😊

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    1,016
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I actually just got off the phone to the technical advisor up at Fulcrum, who have made customer selby bars in years past for myself and other guys.

    When discussed the requirements, the interesting thing that was pointed out is that the torsion bar is likely to be imported.

    Lovells & King Springs don't do torsion bars, but Phil gardner (Rage / Gardner engineering) may have a solution - I'm just waiting to hear back from him.

    Anyway, that is taking this OT a little - the bottom line is that the bar can be retained for EAS, and it's no big deal if a long range tank is desired.

    I'll cover the swaybar research on another thread.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    13,981
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I found with my 91RRc , that when you fit heavier springs, you don't want or need a rear stabilizer bar as it makes the car too "tailly"
    Before I put the bar on I had 160 Lb springs in the front and 180Lb in the back with airbags and working Hydromat.
    I found the car to be tailly as the roll stiffness is increased greatly by the stiffer springs and airbags.

    I fitted a Long Ranger 140 litre tank which needed the rear bar mounts cut off as it has extensions each side of the chassis.
    I found the tank, springs, and airbags to be an ideal combination without a stab bar.

    Remember that a stab bar is only there to increase roll stiffness to allow for softer springs to be used. When you whack in heavier springs and air bags , the roll stiffness is increased anyway, and in most cases too much if the stab bar is retained..
    Also the stab bars were only introduced so that the Americans were not alarmed by body lean when entering expressways, the actual road holding is unchanged. In fact when going up the cape I removed my front bar as well for much better articulation.
    Regards Philip A

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    260
    Total Downloaded
    0
    To bring this up again, has anyone fitted the D1 Brown Davis long range tank with a ARB rear step bar? The tank I'm looking at drops below the chassis rails a little on each side, looking at photos of the tank and looking underneath the arse end of the Rangie, I am sure that this -would- be a tight fit with the ARB rear bar.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bellarine Peninsula, Brackistan
    Posts
    5,309
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I had a 2 door that had a long range tank (brand unknown) and an ARB step bar on the back. Had a 2" body lift, but don't know if that was necessary for the two to fit together.

    Can't recall any clearance issues.

    PM Dungarover to get the brand of the tank.

    DL

  9. #39
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sunbury, VIC
    Posts
    20,055
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Mine was a bit of a tight fit, but they do go in ok - see pic. The rear braces from the ARB rear step bar run past the side of the long range tank, but if it looks the same as mine (I'm almost positive its a Brown Davis unit) then you should be fine.

    If you need any more pics, let me know.

    RRC.jpg
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,742
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Chivalry View Post
    To bring this up again, has anyone fitted the D1 Brown Davis long range tank with a ARB rear step bar? The tank I'm looking at drops below the chassis rails a little on each side, looking at photos of the tank and looking underneath the arse end of the Rangie, I am sure that this -would- be a tight fit with the ARB rear bar.

    And I too have an ARB rear bar to go with the retained EAS, so likewise, still interested - assuming the old girl ever gets back on the road!
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!