Do either of you have to break in a new cam?
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Do either of you have to break in a new cam?
Yes I do. Done it before. Once started will be running it at around 2250rpm for half and hour. Used Crane Cam lube on all lifters/rockers/pushrods. Also got the Penrite 10W-40 Engine break in oil in it. Which gets changed after 500kms.
So pretty critical to ensure that all hoses/fittings/etc tight and leak free so I don't have to stop/start.
I only mentioned it because when I did it, I thought it would be as described: just run at whatever revs for the given time and that's it. What actually happened was that the engine started getting too hot, so I had to let cool it down, top up the coolant, (I used distilled water at first, as it's supposed to be less likely to leak as coolant will with new gaskets), and then start it up again. I had to do this two or three times. Which was a bit nerve-wracking when I had replaced pretty much everything that moved.
:D Understood. Actually it is best to vary the speed between 2-3000 rpm, slowly up/down, as lifts/cam rely on splash lubrication. First time I did it years ago power steering fluid was leaking everywhere, so had to shut it all down. Trick is to have everything primed, ready, so they start up quick. And agree re coolant first time is with water. And use of high zinc oil (not a synthetic) is really important for this. This time I am not even going to have power steering belt in place, until after engine has been run up for a bit.
I was just surprised at how difficult it was, not having read a thing about having to stop and start the process.
Ditto,Meccles covered it nicely :)
My panelbeater lost my keys,so spent the day installing new igntion steering lock/key barrel and door locks,what a nightmare that is.
By design there is very limited access to the door locks with the window frame in,so much skin lost.
ps:big ups to famous four in the uk,got here in 4 days,freight is killer.
Here's the technique:Lie on garage floor,place torch in mouth,place blob of bluetac on screwdriver,guide holding clip on end to slip under key barrel blind.Fail epicly,small curse,repeat 20 times,larger curse,succeed,ask for assistance to get off the concrete floor...
Pictures show new ignition installed ,and flash new lucas right stalk,plus placed front grills on to test placement for holes and riveted guides.
:D Looking very sharp, I'm impressed with how tidy your steering column is. I use Andy at Famous Four a lot too, they have been excellent. One tip, years ago my original indicator switch stopped working. When I put a new one on, and tested it, you could see that there is a slight bit of give in unit when you operate it, particularly right hand indicator, that actually stresses one of main wires coming off the switch. This was what had broken on mine. So, I just soldered in a short 2" extension. It never failed. The actual loom as provided was too short. Something to check:)
Looking sweet Westy.
I can appreciate all the time you spend on the little things that only you will know about :D. I've noticed a lot of your detail work e.g. the painting of the horns to name just one.
Looking at UK prices you'll have a pretty valuable rig in the end. Keep the post coming I look every day for updates.
Cheers Meccles ,Yes the flex duly noted,and as a result the highbeam connector had broken,so good call.
That door lock clip is another story,rare as.. i scoured ebay,and spotted what looked exactly the same.
Triumph TR7 Dolomite Sprint Clip f?r Schloss 723290
Funny what bits were shared around back in the day,haha.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Understood about the door lock. How the hell they fitted them on production line has me beat. Sweet got two new Dolomite Sprint "new" old stock from Germany on their way. For $3 each- bargain! :D Good find!:clap2: