Thread: Huge steering shake

Originally Posted by bee utey

Often the first sign of a worn fuel pump is a failure of an inline connector due to the higher current draw. Roughness in the pump cell can double its power draw without losing pressure. I lose track of how many D1's and late RRC's I've had to cut out bad connectors by the rear muffler and replace the pump housing and connector cable.

Now if you want to isolate the LPG from the fuel pump circuit (very wise) you'll need a solid ignition source. The plain white fat wire off the ignition switch is my source of choice. Fit a 10A line fuse. You'll then need a safety-cut-out wired between the switch and the gas valves. Example:

Brand New Peel LPG Safety Switch | eBay

This will mean that you can run the car on LPG even if the fuel pump blows the fuse. Cheap LPG installers do the fuel pump supply because it's $25 off the cost for them.

Thanks... The issue has come to a head because about a month ago I exhanged the fuel pump from the other car into it(as the fuel pump in it was so weak it the car wouldn't really do much other than start on petrol. you certainly couldn't use more than 1/10th throttle without it leaning out and dying). This fuel pump provides plenty of fuel (ie: it absolutely flies on petrol now).... But over the last month has melted the fuse to the point where it died the other night. I'd say the old pump pulled no current.







Look how absolutely ****house the wiring is .... The voltage drop would have to be horrendous even when it's new and perfect. I wish I'd read your suggestions above first.... I've already run some power wires under the car (I needed to run the anderson plug wiring under the car ... So I ran another wire with it down to the back). I'm in the process of mounting a relay down the back to drive the fuel pump and gas solenoids, I just need to figure out which one of the 3 wires above is the live one (the other two will be the earth and fuel gauge I'm guessing).

I didn't think of the gas switch bit. I figured I needed to keep the power source the pump, as it will shut off the gas if the engine ever stops (as the cars computers will automatically shut the pump off).

I wonder how many amps a brand new pump pulls... It'll be annoying to fit a new one .... and find it pulls 5.3 amps .....

seeya,
Shane L.

There is a special loathing I have in reserve for Land Rover wiring and connectors.

I think it was literally the second thing I did after purchasing - renewing all of the dodgy wiring connections from P.O.'s and the POD himself. The under-dash and engine bay was a particularly interesting 2 weeks of work. ... yes, 2 weeks.

It still continues - as I encounter each bit of dodgy, it get's a complete circuit evaluation and replacement of all suspect components.

While most everything has been replaced with osh-kosh-its-bosch I don't particularly feel that the poms have any real skill when it comes to electrics, or schematics. For wiring harness skills, you need to look to proper german engineered vehicles. (not the opel kadett)

Not sure that it's worthwhile in the short-term, but in the longrun I'll be acutely aware of all the potential issues.

Besides, it gives me an excuse to pull things apart, at the very least clean / overhaul them and put them back in with a new lease of life. Drivers window is probably next on the list. it's getting slow on the uplift.

Or buy a Petronix dizzy brand new US$280 Why bother with such a hassle life's too short BUICK 3.5L/215 PerTronix Distributors - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Originally Posted by Meccles

Or buy a Petronix dizzy brand new US$280 Why bother with such a hassle life's too short BUICK 3.5L/215 PerTronix Distributors - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Gee that is cheap for a new dizzie! There is nothing wrong with the dizzie in the car ... I just did bee uteys fix ... so if I'm stupid enogh to touch the rotor button agaiin, it doesn't fall apart

Good luck! We can tolerate the rain/hassle etc but eventually SWMBO will object. So price of everything has to reflect the alternative and I'm not talking cars

Originally Posted by Mercguy

There is a special loathing I have in reserve for Land Rover wiring and connectors.

I think it was literally the second thing I did after purchasing - renewing all of the dodgy wiring connections from P.O.'s and the POD himself. The under-dash and engine bay was a particularly interesting 2 weeks of work. ... yes, 2 weeks.

It still continues - as I encounter each bit of dodgy, it get's a complete circuit evaluation and replacement of all suspect components.

While most everything has been replaced with osh-kosh-its-bosch I don't particularly feel that the poms have any real skill when it comes to electrics, or schematics. For wiring harness skills, you need to look to proper german engineered vehicles. (not the opel kadett)

Not sure that it's worthwhile in the short-term, but in the longrun I'll be acutely aware of all the potential issues.

Besides, it gives me an excuse to pull things apart, at the very least clean / overhaul them and put them back in with a new lease of life. Drivers window is probably next on the list. it's getting slow on the uplift.

Mines looking worse the more work I do to it ... as everytime time you add wiring for relays you end up with more of a rats nest of wires. I've added a relay in the boot behind the rear light to power the pump.... gee's you should hear the fuel pump now! It must have only had 8volts at it before. Beside the battery looks particually messy. We have the 3 headlight relays, the 3 fan relays, the battery isolater ... and the fuse box I've added (to protect the fuel pump and headlight circuits ). Also we have the heavy brake controller and anderson plug wiring. I probably should make a "housing" to store all the wires in so it looks tidy. At least I know it's 100% functional and safe though!

seyea,
Shane L.

I'm looking forward to wiring in mine you figure $500 for complete 26 circuit loom from painless performance will post pics when complete. Only thing original are indicators wiper/light switches and they have been modified

Originally Posted by Meccles

I'm looking forward to wiring in mine you figure $500 for complete 26 circuit loom from painless performance will post pics when complete. Only thing original are indicators wiper/light switches and they have been modified

But, but .. the light and wiper switches cause endless grief. I purchased a new indicator switch for my car ... and it's worse than the one it replaced (ie: not cancelling, low beam dropping out ... and horn barely working). The one I removed was better.

seeya
shane L.