eas questions

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Originally Posted by Chivalry

Doesn't the EAS ECU check how the car is sitting when there is no ignition and self-levels itself? I thought this is why you had to isolate the EAS with the switch under the drivers seat before even jacking the car up on the axle with the standard bottle jack to change a tyre. Not sure if this would cause any issues later on though, have you tried disconnecting the battery for a while?

I'm only new to the ownership of EAS Rangies.

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G`day ,

yes the ecu does as you say but that has nothing to do with bags unseating .

There is the underseat switch but opening a door does the same thing only problem is you tend to shut open doors without giving it a lot of thought and the EAS is active as soon as the door closes .

If i`m not getting under it i`ll jack the axles and stand the axles .

If i`m getting under it i always stand the body and either jack the body or axle .

If i`m getting under it at any time i stand the body the axles won`t go a lot lower but the body will .

Generally you need what the ECU perceives as 2 faults to hard fault and go to the bump stops .

Disconnecting the battery will stop the EAS function but won`t stop the bags loosing pressure if they choose to so the car can still lower .

Some things are magic and some are only physical .

If a bag becomes unseated , it may be best to not repower the ecu till it`s refitted and then it is unlikely to be a problem that the ecu will log .

When changing bags the ECU won`t fault if it doesn`t know ( no power ) it will fill them and be happy because that`s what it does .

Or i suppose it should be give the command to fill them .

I will give the "disconnect the battery" a go.
Thanks everyone.
Phil

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Originally Posted by PLR

G`day ,

yes the ecu does as you say but that has nothing to do with bags unseating .

There is the underseat switch but opening a door does the same thing only problem is you tend to shut open doors without giving it a lot of thought and the EAS is active as soon as the door closes .

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I don't mean in relation to the bag unseating. I mean that in Bikemans scenario where if the tyre shop lifted the car by the body on a hoist and the EAS wasn't isolated, doors closed and ECU still checking heights while suspension is at full extended height whilst in the air, could that have caused an issue with the sensors or otherwise to create the problem that Bikeman is experiencing?

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Originally Posted by Chivalry

I don't mean in relation to the bag unseating. I mean that in Bikemans scenario where if the tyre shop lifted the car by the body on a hoist and the EAS wasn't isolated, doors closed and ECU still checking heights while suspension is at full extended height whilst in the air, could that have caused an issue with the sensors or otherwise to create the problem that Bikeman is experiencing?

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G`day ,

because he says it has no lights on the dash and i asked if it was working as it should switching and sitting at highway speed then i take it it has no electronic problem ( if that`s the right way to put it ) .

This would mean that the electronic/air part of the suspension is working .

If the sensors were out of range it would fault or hard fault , one it does things out of the ordinary , the other goes to the bumps and stops doing anything .

If a sensor goes out of range it harms nothing else and other than the EAS not working as it should , other than the sensors fault it causes no damage electronically to anything else .

Just so it`s known the sensors when faulty can be rotated 180 degrees and reused because they are two sided .

For the car to rise it increases the pressure in the bags if it had more pressure than it should in one or more bag it has to raise the car above where it would normally be for a specified bag pressure .

To get a rough ride and as i understand this is the problem , the electronics are unable to cause this .

In my opinion to answer your question i don`t think the EAS is the cause , it could be as i suggested the shock rubber or mounts or maybe the tyres that were on it had softer side walls but i think a physical cause .


The only reason i know anything about the EAS is because i had to learn how it works or fit springs .

Once you get your head around how it works it`s not as complicated as it first seems , it is also much more reliable than people comment about .

Over the 12 yrs of the LSE we had , i replaced the 4 bags , the compressor with one from a P38a ( they have a bigger electric motor same pump but different head on the pump and 2 mount have to be modified ) and one height sensor .

The other 2 SEs have coils but i`ve almost got enough to put the hard dash back on air and the Soft Dash needs a bit more if i do it because all the pipes are also gone from it .


G`day bikeman ,

when i got to the tyre side walls above i had a thought , have a look at the chassis bushes on the front radius arms for cracks/splits ,the back as well but more so the front because when the axles drooped it would have put pressure all 4 of them and if they are old they all crack/split , which allows the axle to move back and forth .

I would just like to thank everyone for their help. I disconnected the battery for a couple minuets while examining the shock rubbers etc. on reconnecting the battery and starting, all went well. I drove around the block and it now seems that the harshness I experienced has gone. Maybe the ecu just needed a freshening up. Who knows what goes on in the mind of Lord Lucas???

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Originally Posted by bikeman

I would just like to thank everyone for their help. I disconnected the battery for a couple minuets while examining the shock rubbers etc. on reconnecting the battery and starting, all went well. I drove around the block and it now seems that the harshness I experienced has gone. Maybe the ecu just needed a freshening up. Who knows what goes on in the mind of Lord Lucas???

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G`day ,

it`s good that you have rectified the problem .

I`m disappointed i was unable to explain better .

Under the driver's seat, behind that plastic hatch of the front of the seat- base (remove CAREfully, as the clip can easily break...) is one of those funny LR style 'pyramid' connector sets.
From faded memory, I cut one of the wires, the black 'earth' I think... and ran that so a switch on the seat- base front panel near the transmission tunnel, out of reach of my feet, yet reachable. Used a "Rocket launcher" fitting on the switch to make it look... "Technical"[bighmmm]

- This is the plug-set you must open in order to insert the EAS 'Kicker', the gizmo's power cable to the ciggie lighter supplying the 'Earth' connection, assuming I've not forgotten too much. [bigsad]

But please check with RAVE, I've sold the car so can't go outside and visually check.

This allowed me to reach down and 'over-ride' / power-isolate the EAS system, instantly. Useful if you wanted the pump to 'not' run for any reason, and the system to go into a coma ( never saw the point of letting the car deflate itself overnight....then pump back up again in the morning!)

Keep in mind that the Classic pump is, IMHO, a bit marginal in capacity and life, so every minute it does not need to run is a bonus.

(I'm occupied today, otherwise I'd trawl my old posts.... Am 49.9% sure I posted some pics and info on this, years ago...)

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Originally Posted by superquag

Under the driver's seat, behind that plastic hatch of the front of the seat- base (remove CAREfully, as the clip can easily break...) is one of those funny LR style 'pyramid' connector sets.
From faded memory, I cut one of the wires, the black 'earth' I think... and ran that so a switch on the seat- base front panel near the transmission tunnel, out of reach of my feet, yet reachable. Used a "Rocket launcher" fitting on the switch to make it look... "Technical"[bighmmm]

- This is the plug-set you must open in order to insert the EAS 'Kicker', the gizmo's power cable to the ciggie lighter supplying the 'Earth' connection, assuming I've not forgotten too much. [bigsad]

But please check with RAVE, I've sold the car so can't go outside and visually check.

This allowed me to reach down and 'over-ride' / power-isolate the EAS system, instantly. Useful if you wanted the pump to 'not' run for any reason, and the system to go into a coma ( never saw the point of letting the car deflate itself overnight....then pump back up again in the morning!)

Keep in mind that the Classic pump is, IMHO, a bit marginal in capacity and life, so every minute it does not need to run is a bonus.

(I'm occupied today, otherwise I'd trawl my old posts.... Am 49.9% sure I posted some pics and info on this, years ago...)

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Wot - you mean you don't have all this expensively obtained info written in blood or gold ink for we unfortunates to follow? !!!!

Q1 - If you do go looking, I recall reading somewhere that the P38 pump could be swapped in with some mods and the question arises - is it worth it for those of us silly enuff to consider retaining/being buried in our classics?

Q2 - So, is there any benefit in leaving the BBS Kicker permanently connected, or does it require disconnection to return to normal EAS operation.

Cheers O venerated one!

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Q1 - If you do go looking, I recall reading somewhere that the P38 pump could be swapped in with some mods and the question arises - is it worth it for those of us silly enuff to consider retaining/being buried in our classics?

!

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My 94 RRC has a P38 pump in it, I bought a new pump back when I had a P38 and rebuilt the old one, which I then remember having issues fitting into the classic as a leg or foot or mount doesn't fit right but with a bit of persuasion goes in ok.

Alas, I did take some pictures of the setup, and indeed I vaguely recall posting some of them here.... but....since The Great Reset, the 'Search' function doesn't work for me like it did before...

And I can't find the pics of that time (on my hard-drives)

Yes, P38 pump can be shoe-horned into the waterproof box under the body/on chassis. Spanners, hacksaw or Bigger Hammer...[bigwhistle]

J