Great work. The classic look with a modern touch.![]()
Right so I managed to get two weeks off work. I spent one week on a trip to Tokyo, Japan and even saw this mint RRC in the streets.
The 2nd week I was able get some work done on the project. I started off by mounting the HVAC switches from the Colorado to work the HVAC box. Looks OK for now, there is plenty more leg room compared to the old RRC trim piece that held the switches. The ugly gap between the dash the switch panel will be filled and tidied with a strip that will hold various switches such as Hi-Lo, CDL, Lockers etc.
I then moved onto the instrument cluster. I need to use the Colorado one for everything to work, but I wanted to keep the square look from the original RRC one. I was able to use the rectangular RRC binnacle that surrounds the original instrument cluster, and made up a backing plate (metal coloured with the blue protective tape in the photo below) in order to retrofit the Colorado one. Once the plate is cleaned up and painted black you will barely even know it is there. The original instrument cowl also fits the new set up, I just have to get a new one as mine has split open.
Next job was retrofitting the Colorado wiper motor to the wiper system. This was pretty straight forward, as I was able to bolt on the new motor to the mounting plate, by drilling out the old mounting holes and making new ones. I made a protective disk which incorporates the lever arm to the wiper arms.
Most of the hard fiddly work has been completed around the dash area now, except for the ducting from the HVAC box to the vents which still needs to be finalised. I decided to move back to the engine back and tackle some relatively simple jobs. First was making a new battery tray for the main battery, now located near the firewall on the passenger side due to the layout of the engine loom. The second battery tray will be located on the front factory battery tray on the passenger side.
New Battery tray
Battery fitted, yes I did check that the bonnet clears the terminals. Only need to install a securing clamp to hold the battery in place.
I was also able to test fit the location of the fuse box and ECU, these will be fitted next weekend along with the coolant expansion tank, PAS tank and ABS modulator which will be located on the driver's side.
Can't wait to get back next weekend and continue on, things are really starting to come together now. Not long until I can pull the body off the chassis for painting of the chassis and underbody.
Discovery RockSliders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-veran...ies-1-2-a.html
Great work. The classic look with a modern touch.![]()
Didn't manage to get a whole lot done this weekend, was stuck fixing air con belt issues on my Minx, but still managed to get bit done on the Rangie regardless.
I made the fitting brackets for the fuse box and the ECU. Decided to go for a sturdy option for the ECU, as it is quite a delicate piece of equipment. Made it out of 1.6mm plate and rolled the edges over with the bead roller. Still needs a bit of panel beating but it holds the ECU quite nicely.
Next job is to mount the ABS modulator, which needs to sit close to the brake booster.
I have also had a bit of rethink regarding the position of the 2nd battery. I was initially going to put it on the passenger side in the dedicated battery tray, but I think having two batteries (up to 60kg) on that side of the car might throw the weight distribution out a bit. So I have decided to move the airbox closer to the brake booster, and put the 2nd battery where the main battery used to be. This means I will have the other tray free for the windscreen washer reservoir and possibly an air compressor.
Hope to post up some more updates next week.
Discovery RockSliders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-veran...ies-1-2-a.html
I’m jealous you just happen to have a bead roller sitting around![]()
Got a little bit more done on the weekend, progress has been a little slow lately due to lack of time:
Fitted the ABS modulator and ran the brake line against the firewall for the LH front wheel.
Also made a bracket to hold the coolant and PAS reservoirs. I mounted these against the firewall to get it the coolant tank higher than the radiator.
Next job is to get the TIG welder out and weld up the aluminium piping for the turbo and intercooler.
Discovery RockSliders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-veran...ies-1-2-a.html
So it has been a while since my last post, but I have actually achieved a lot on the project considering I have not had a lot of time off work in the last 3 months, so hear is the latest updates from the last 7 months:
I have made up the intake, turbo and intercooler piping using a generic kit from ebay. Had to make a few adjustments but it will work pretty well. Not sure about the red hoses yet, might replace them with black ones eventually:
Next job was to make a custom fan cowling for the radiator from aluminium, including routing the coolant piping:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2ddL1qV]
Also bent the air con pipe from the evaporator back into the compressor. I used the colorado one in the photo below, but I will need to get one custom made to suit using the pad fitting for the evaporator.
Now that everything has been fitted to make the new drive train work, it is time for the most soul destroying part of the build: stripping everything for painting and to complete the chassis works.
Discovery RockSliders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-veran...ies-1-2-a.html
Right so off came the body to reveal a dust covered chassis. As mentioned before, this is probably the worst part of the build as you are stripping more than building. Parts are laying around everywhere and it seems that you will spend an eternity finding all the parts again, cleaning them and working out where they all go.
So I started doing the exhaust using 3in stainless steel pipe, that will contain the cat converter and a hot dog type muffler.
Next job was to install the Colorado in tank fuel pump into the LRA long range tank. I had to cut open a larger hole into the tank to make the pump fit and also had to lenghten the springs on the pump to allow for the pump to sit at the bottom of the tank. Finally a custom made retainer ring to hold the pump in place.
After fitting the fuel lines and fuel filter, the front and rear diffs were stripped out to reveal a bare chassis. I have since strengthened the chassis and it has been completely cleaned using a wire wheel.
Next job is to paint the chassis, diffs, a-frame, trailing and radius arms. Then the reassembly can begin!
Discovery RockSliders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-veran...ies-1-2-a.html
Great work![]()
Awesome work Hendrik, keep up the good work.,...and the updates
Andrew
1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver
This is amazing. I don't think I'd live long enough to ever finish such a big project!
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks