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Thread: RRC 2.8L CRD Project

  1. #41
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    Great work Hendrik, great to see it coming together.
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  2. #42
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    Great thread Hendrik.

    Interesting to see how you approached strengthening the roof frame. I'm guessing the 1.2mm cover plate replaced thinner original metal? The metal on my '84 RRC body all seems to be about 0.9mm or less (or totally absent).

    Did you use a dedicated spot welder when installing the 1.2mm plate, or your MIG?

    If with MIG I would be interested in your method, particularly out of position. In my rust removing efforts I would drill out the original spots in the top layer using a home ground point 4mm diameter, leaving the second layer underneath basically unscathed. Fabricate the new piece with 4mm holes.

    I had trouble welding in new spots when I left the holes at 4mm. The MIG arc would short to the side of the hole instead of the centre of the second layer. This gave the weld a lopsided appearance as it burnt into the top layer, leaving a large part of the original hole still evident.

    I ended up making holes 8mm diameter to better control arc direction.

    I watched lots of youtube vids but none seemed to go into power settings.

    After lots of frustration I thought stuff it and set my 22 year old MIG to full power (6th setting). Held the gas shield sheath right on the hole and let rip for about 2 seconds, expecting to burn a big hole. But no, the hole was fully filled with just the right penetration through the second layer. Destruction test of the practice piece had the first layer ripping around the weld. I thought you beaut, cracked the MIG spot weld secret. But out of position...good old gravity had other ideas.

    Also liked you adaption of the transfercase to gearbox.

  3. #43
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    Good question. I did us a 1.2mm plate to replace the old thinner metal. I did use a spot welder which did make the job a bit easier but was a bit of a pain holding in in that position. I did also try to do the repair as you described and had some issues with burn through. My issue was drilling into the second layer, which made it even thinner as I didn't use a special bit normally used to drill out spot welds. But it came together in the end, and yeah out of position is a pain to get right.


    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Great thread Hendrik.

    Interesting to see how you approached strengthening the roof frame. I'm guessing the 1.2mm cover plate replaced thinner original metal? The metal on my '84 RRC body all seems to be about 0.9mm or less (or totally absent).

    Did you use a dedicated spot welder when installing the 1.2mm plate, or your MIG?

    If with MIG I would be interested in your method, particularly out of position. In my rust removing efforts I would drill out the original spots in the top layer using a home ground point 4mm diameter, leaving the second layer underneath basically unscathed. Fabricate the new piece with 4mm holes.

    I had trouble welding in new spots when I left the holes at 4mm. The MIG arc would short to the side of the hole instead of the centre of the second layer. This gave the weld a lopsided appearance as it burnt into the top layer, leaving a large part of the original hole still evident.

    I ended up making holes 8mm diameter to better control arc direction.

    I watched lots of youtube vids but none seemed to go into power settings.

    After lots of frustration I thought stuff it and set my 22 year old MIG to full power (6th setting). Held the gas shield sheath right on the hole and let rip for about 2 seconds, expecting to burn a big hole. But no, the hole was fully filled with just the right penetration through the second layer. Destruction test of the practice piece had the first layer ripping around the weld. I thought you beaut, cracked the MIG spot weld secret. But out of position...good old gravity had other ideas.

    Also liked you adaption of the transfercase to gearbox.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hendrik View Post
    ... I didn't use a special bit normally used to drill out spot welds...
    I bought a couple of spot drills of different designs. The best one consisted of a small centre point and two trepanning points at 180 degrees to each other on the perimeter. The webbing between the trepan points and centre point was shallow. In operation the trepanning points cut slightly ahead of the webbing. If successful the first layer is converted to shavings. The second layer has a mark from the centre point surrounded by a lightly scribed circle, but essentially intact. Sometimes the spot weld fails before the cutting is complete - you end up with a disk spinning under your drill tip and you wonder why you're making no drilling progress!

    The store bought drill was cutting 6mm dia holes which I though was to big for the size of the spots (4mm) and would require more weld infill - in hind sight 6mm was probably too small. I decided to make my own spot weld drill out of an old 4mm twist drill.

    Using a bench grinder flatten the drill tip, take it right off, flat. Your grinder needs to have good corners on the edge of the wheel for the next step. Gently push the grinding wheel corner off centre into the flat drill head, over one of the flutes, until you begin to develop a partial centre point and one trepang point. Change over to the other off centre side, over the other flute, to create the second trepang point and better define the centre point. Keep the webbing between points shallow and even as possible on both sides, in other words don't overdo the use of the grinding wheel corner by cutting too deeply.

  5. #45
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    Time for an update:

    I have been spending most of my time focusing on the mechanicals to try to get the car to a point where it can be driven. Progress has slowed due to the COVID19 Pandemic restrictions as I haven't been able to get out to the farm to work on this, but here are a few photos of where I am currently up to.

    Power steering hoses have been made and installed, this was relatively straight forward, as I cut the old rover pipes to the steering box and welded them to the Colorado stuff that connects to the pump and the reservoir. Also made up a cooling loop on the return line, which I ran on the inside of the front cross member.





    Next job was open and inspect the rear diff. I found that the copper airline on the ARB locker had been crushed and also found that the rear diff was infact a 4.11 ratio and not the 3.54 that I am going for. So I had to replace the crown wheel and pinion and buy a new seal and copper airline from ARB. I rerouted the airline to exit at the back of the housing to prevent it from being crushed between the housing and the crown wheel.





    Also replaced all the wheel bearings:


    Connected up the modified propshafts:


    Also had to modify my shiny exhaust as it was hitting the body, one of the issues with making the exhaust when the body is off the car!

    Also ran the brake lines up to the Colorado booster and ABS module and started it up, put it in drive and was able to drive it around the shed. Makes a lot easier to get it on and off the hoist now.

    I finished the AC lines between the evaporator, AC compressor and condensor, and also installed the wiper motor.





    Now to divert my attention back to the inside, there is a lot of custom ducting that needs to be made, including a new center console etc etc!

    So stay tuned!

  6. #46
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    awesome to see! Are you using the colorado air con unit inside?
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    awesome to see! Are you using the colorado air con unit inside?
    I am yes, including the switches etc. It works quite well, just have to make up some ducting under the dash as the air distribution is different to the RRC heater box.

  8. #48
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    Awesome project mate, coming along really well!

  9. #49
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    That's a pretty decent amount of progress all things being considered.

    Can't wait for the next instalment
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  10. #50
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    Update time!

    Finally got the shocks sorted, ended up going for Superior Engineering long travel shocks:





    Spent weeks trying to get the center console sorted, as I struggled to find a good spot for the cup holders and still have enough legroom. Made a new one out of timber with the intent to cover it with vinyl or leather. The next step is to get some buttons for the range selection, CDL, lockers, winch etc which will be located in front of the auto selector.



    I then diverted my attention back to the bodywork. The bonnet had this terrible Nissan bonnet scoop which I was not a fan of at all, so it had to go and the hole was welded closed. I have so far applied some filler and high build paint, ready for topcoat.








    I also removed the rear 3/4 panels as one had a badly repaired dent and the other needed a hole welded closed for the old LPG filler which will no longer be required. While I was there, I rolled a bead where the panel had previously been cut to fit the flares. This is to strengthen the panel in this area, and the flare will then be refitted.




    I then tidied up and resprayed the roof frame, then test fitted the snorkel. The scuttle panel also had to have the LHS snorkel hole repaired as the snorkel will now be fitted to the RHS.



    That's it for now, over the coming weeks I hope to finish the bodywork by applying the topcoat to the bonnet, scuttle panel, and rear 3/4 panels. Lots of work to go, but making progress.

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