Thread: DUST, EXHAUST FUMES AND POPPING OPEN.

To get one of those to stay shut, the two lock rods must be carefully adjusted so that the catches both engage within the travel allowed by the lock button. Takes patience. Dust is not easy to keep out if your rubber seals are damaged. Exhaust fumes can be reduced by making your exhaust outlet sit precisely at the edge of the body, pointing a little to the side, where passing air removes the fumes.

The design of the catches means that over time they fail to lock.

Inside the catches are two flat plates that rely on the edges being at 90 degrees for them to catch.

Over time the corners of the edges wear from 90degrees to rounded and they slip apart under stress from bumps..

A pair of new catches will last for 20 years before doing it again.

I have replaced the catches on 2RRCs and never had a problem again.

It is possible to pull the catches apart and weld and grind a new edge onto the flat plates but hardly worth the effort. I pulled a catch apart to see but I didn't have a welder at the time and I probably would have stuffed it up anyway.

They also have to be adjusted via the threaded adjuster on the rod that goes to the centre button so that they do not actuate until the button is almost fully down.
New catches will fix the problem .

Regards Philip A

Thanks to your replies Blokes,
I perhaps should have mentioned that I have replaced the window frame with a new alli unit, the seals all have been replaced and the catches have also been replaced, so I guess I'll just have to try and keep rooting around with the adjustment of the catches and positioning of the catch pins.
And I will get onto modifying the exhaust tail pipe as was suggested.

Thanks again:-
Patrick M.

With the tailgate open and all the rod covers removed, observe the lock rods. Manually lock each catch with a Plilips head screw driver. The rods should move outwards approximately 3mm and neither rod should prevent the other one from engaging. Press the release button and make sure that the latches just comfortably undo. Most people adjust the catches so they open easily (small lock button travel) but this prevents them from securely locking. By all means check the strikers for position, safely within the catch area without binding. Also make sure the strikers are fitted with spacers between them and the body. Small washers may help fine height adjustment. Do all of this with the lower tailgate open, just in case anything gets stuck.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Do all of this with the lower tailgate open, just in case anything gets stuck.

Added benefit: gives you somewhere to sit whilst all the fiddly stuff gets done.

Also if you have new seals, when you close the upper tailgate push down on each corner adjacent to the locks rather than one handed in the middle.

I would also loosen off the striker plates until the tailgate locks easily then do small adjustments until you are happy that all of the seal is being compressed. I used to use a slip of paper in various locations.

Regards Philip A

I did mine last year with a new upper glass and frame, locks and strikers and where I had the proplem is the new seal.

I found the new seal is much harder than the original and with the strikers all the way out my tailgate would still pop open and it was a bitch to shut.

I had to space out the top hinges to fix it. It's still a PITA to shut and not Range Rover like at all.

I've been looking around for a genuine seal but no luck yet.

I did mine last year with a new upper glass and frame, locks and strikers and where I had the proplem is the new seal.

Yes I agree.
It was many years ago , about 15 or so but I found the same .
The upper tailgate on my 77 needed a hell of a slam after fitting the new seal as it was much stiffer than the old one.
AFAIR it was also a bitch to fit into the steel channel especially at the top.
Regards Philip A