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Thread: Back into a classic, now just starting to think about the future.

  1. #1
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    Back into a classic, now just starting to think about the future.

    After buying the D2a a year ago, i have decided i needed to get back into a classic, the D2a just doesn't feel like a Classic, it seems cramped and to be honest i don't like all the electronics. This 1988 5 speed classic came up for sale, and i thought it could be ideal as a base for fitting all my Maxi-drive stuff out of my old 86 wagon.

    The seller said clutch pedal needed bleeding and radiator stuffed, i borrowed Lockee's trailer and went for a look... It is a very nice classic, with Eastern Wheel Works 15 x 8's and a LRA flare kit fitted, dual fuel, how could i say no.

    new rrc.jpg

    After getting her home, i had a good look over her, one of the best interiors i've seen on an old RRC. I've just started checking things off the to do list. The radiator was stuffed, luckily i had a rebuilt one put aside for the 86 (ten years ago).

    The original radiator wasn't looking very good! Luckily the overflow bottle had lovely clean green coolant still in it.

    20171209_163020_resized.jpg

    Ran down to autobarn and picked up a new supercharge gold battery, so i can test the radiator. Once the battery was installed, it was time to test the radiator, i started her up and ran her for 10 minutes with the heater on full heat and no cap on, then fitted the cap to see what the cooling system would do under pressure, once the thermostat opened things were looking good... Job 2 ticked off the list..
    Cheers

    Steve

    1993 RRC Vogue SE, 1986 RRC Wagon (Rotting in the Garden)
    2004 D2a TD5 (Sold), 1986 RRC Ute (Sold) 1988 RRC Wagon (Sold)

  2. #2
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    RPO83?....a very significant number!!....Do you, or did you, own one?!
    Pickles.

  3. #3
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    Yup, owned many GT's in my misspent youth, but mostly XA's and finding an 83 was my holy grail, i found mine in 84 from memory..

    My 83 next to Rod Mann's GTHO Phase 4, i was very privileged to get to drive the Phase 4
    87 Nats with GTHO Phase 4.jpg

    Falcon XA GT RPO 083.jpg

    And the proof, report was run in 1986, by a mate of mine who worked at Ford, the official ford records didn't define what option 83 was in 1973, so he wrote my report using the 1972 definition of RPO 83, colour coded bumpers,
    Vehicle History.jpg
    Cheers

    Steve

    1993 RRC Vogue SE, 1986 RRC Wagon (Rotting in the Garden)
    2004 D2a TD5 (Sold), 1986 RRC Ute (Sold) 1988 RRC Wagon (Sold)

  4. #4
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    I think i have discovered why it wouldn't run on petrol...!!

    26047475_860138054165940_2713517515690902157_n.jpg
    Cheers

    Steve

    1993 RRC Vogue SE, 1986 RRC Wagon (Rotting in the Garden)
    2004 D2a TD5 (Sold), 1986 RRC Ute (Sold) 1988 RRC Wagon (Sold)

  5. #5
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    Probably be a starting point...lol. Thats horrible

  6. #6
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    The hardest bit is finding replacement parts once you start fixing it.

    Winter this year we went away towing the block of flats north for winter... with the old Rangie. Before leaving I thought I better do some preventative maintenance... (yes there is a first time for everything). I fitted a full rubber bush kit, greased and lubed everything I could get too... fitted new plugs, dizzie cap, rotor, leads ... fitted new indicator switch as the old one didn't always stay on when turning right.

    So over the last 6months... The panhard bush failed within a couple of thousand kms ... maybe 6 weeks and the 30 year old one was refitted... the "new" indicator switch failed while we were away... I had to hold the RH indicator on ... and hold the indicator switch up the entire time if I wanted low beam to say on. The bushes around the car are disintegrating rapidly. The front shocker bushes have disintegrated and fallen out. Last week it started running really poorly ... I finally got a chance to look at it last night. One of the new HT leads has failed and is open circuit.

    So EVERYTHING I replaced before I left earlier this year .... has failed. And been replaced by the ancient parts I have removed. At the moment it drives like a bucket of **** due to the lack of shocker bushes in the front. ( I just haven't had the time to change all 68 or whatever the crazy number of suspension bushes was again ).

    Same deal with my old Citroens. Everytime I purchase new parts, they are far worse than the 30->50year old worn parts within a short period of time

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  7. #7
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Shane, that is the perfect example of what makes it so hard to keep an old classic going. Here we are, living in an age where parts should be top quality, but the people in charge would rather have some easy money in the short term. Ridiculous. (And you have my sympathy!)
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  8. #8
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    Agreed Davo,
    I say the same thing over and over again to people who want to buy an old classic Mercedes-Benz, The ones who are thinking they are onto a bargain. There is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes-Benz, just like there is no such thing as a perfectly reliable non-rusting, Range Rover Classic.

    Parts these days are a bit of a hit and miss game. For everyone - It's not limited to a particular marque. You either fork out for the OEM warranted stuff, or Genuine boxed bits with the additional markup, or you try and source a no-name brand part through a 'supplier', which comes with it's own risk. Still - that is no guarantee the part quality isn't junk, but the warranty is there on the part in the case of the genuine or some OEM parts.

    It takes time to learn the nuances of parts sourcing, retailers who supply junk have been getting away with mass-marketing via online stores for the best part of the last 2 decades, but there are plenty of fools who soon part with their money and perpetuate the problem.

    'reputable' parts suppliers usually stock only limited brands and will steer well clear of others, in the quest for quality control. But even that's not a 100% foolproof solution.

    it seems that any black vulcanized rubber part made in PRC is a sure-fire guarantee it's going to fail in under 12 months. same with cheap junk urethane.

    I stopped looking for the cheap parts and even the 'cheaper' boxed stuff, and now almost exclusively source OEM boxed warranted parts direct from the distributors for the MB, and via a few select suppliers for other bits. Where possible I try to find a local supplier who manufactures locally, or if they import the part, will stand by the product.

    In the instances where I have sourced imported parts, I've had some 'interesting' failures over the years - nearly lost a transmission over a pan gasket that split, losinng all the fluid - blew thermostat housings sky high from defective injection moulding, nearly destroying an engine, engine mounts that collapsed in a week (genuine!) and so on it goes.

    I won't go on any further, it' a bit of a game finding the quality parts, especially when you only want to do the job once.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  9. #9
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    When I had my 1960s Alfa Spider back in the UK, I came to rely upon Classic Alfa and Alfaholics for parts. They were both a pleasure to deal with, very knowledgable, always up for an explanatory chat and I had complete confidence in the quality of what they sold me. Which is probably why a 1960s Alfa is the most reliable car I have ever owned!

    I haven't found any indication that the equivalent exists for my RRC.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    I think the problem is with “classic” RR even original parts varied in quality. You could be lucky- or not. Not so much with bushes etc but anything with “ Lucas” dating from 70’s-80’s was hit and miss. And some bits - like too short wiring on high beam on indicator switch was never changed or fixed.

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