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Thread: Interior lights

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
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    2,375

    Interior lights

    is there anyway to **** that timer relay off in these cars ?? It would drive you bloody nuts. I pulled the globes about 6months ago as I didn't have time to look at it .... Then found if I locked the car with the key the damn battery would drain ( I noticed after a few days, the bloody indicators would be flashing all the time. The alarm may have been bypassed decades ago ... but the door pins obviously still work ... so the damn alarm thinks there is a door open, so flashes the indicators).

    Anyway, i started locking the car from the back door by reaching through to the front .... and noticed the battery still got drained over a few days if the car wasn't driven ..... We also have bloody red lights inside the doors the illumate as they think the door is open (so people don't crash into the open doors I guess).

    Last night I finally got around to whipping the timer relay out.... I sprayed it with contact cleaner... agitate the contacts for a bit. Sprayed it with some wd40 and re-assembed. To find it was working perfectly .....

    So this morning the battery sounded down when I started the car ( weird ...) ... then I noticed the god damn interior light was on as I was driving to work. FFS .... Short of pulliing the relay and ****ing the interior light completely off ... Is there a way of stopping this crap ?

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.9V8 ... slugomatic
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sunbury, VIC
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    13,719
    I'm sure it could be done, I can pull mine when I get a moment and take a squiz. Best guess would be to take the door switch input and bypass the timer circuit to drive the relay directly but it sounds like the relay contacts in yours are actually the issue. If you can identify the 4 wires needed to stick in a normal relay, wire in one of those? Should be a constand positive feed to both the relay input and one side of the coil, although they could come from different sources, a ground switch from the door switches and an output to the lights unless I'm missing something. I have had mine out as I moved the relays there to fit the ECU fir the 3.9 I installed but don't recall anything untowards about the wiring for them.


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1976 Series III Tray
    1997 Honda CBR1000F
    2003 L322 - Gone to a new home.

    I don't know how to act my age - I've never been this old before...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Crafers West South Australia
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    Dead easy, yank the relay, bridge the lamp earth path to the door switches with a separate switch on the dash so you can have the doors open without interior lights. 15 minutes max. to fix.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Dead easy, yank the relay, bridge the lamp earth path to the door switches with a separate switch on the dash so you can have the doors open without interior lights. 15 minutes max. to fix.
    Ok, so from all terminals I just need to work out which is the wire the goes to the lights ... and which is the door pins (that one is easy, it'll go to earth when I open a door). For now I dont' even care about the lights staying on when a door is open. All of my cars do that by default. Just having the interior light off would be a bonus

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.9V8 ... slugomatic
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    485

    Interior lights

    Hi Shane,

    What year is your Rangie?

    When I first purchased my 92 Rangie the interior light would suddenly come on while driving .... sometimes at night.

    Traced it to the switch on the back tailgate .... disconnected it, taped the wires and problem has not returned.


    Baggy
    "Lifes Good" in a 81 2D RRC
    "Lifes Better" with a 81 2D & 92 4D Classic
    96 V8i Disco - Sadly gone

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Crafers West South Australia
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    11,032
    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Ok, so from all terminals I just need to work out which is the wire the goes to the lights ... and which is the door pins (that one is easy, it'll go to earth when I open a door). For now I dont' even care about the lights staying on when a door is open. All of my cars do that by default. Just having the interior light off would be a bonus

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Check the wire colour for the wire from the interior light to the relay and the wire colour from a door switch to the relay. They'll be purple, with a white stripe for one and some different stripe for the other, not sure exactly what but not hard to work out.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Now I dont wanna speak Illawarra, but how much can a Koala Bear?
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    Might I suggest you get rid of the immobilizer/alarm. That's more likely to be the source of your constantly draining battery. This was the first thing I did after buying the RRC... I have learned the hard way from previous experiences.. I also noticed it on the RRC after owning it for a week. 2 weeks into ownership I had the whole underdash spaghetti ripped out and rewired - Properly.

    fwiw, I left my headlights on in the RRC on wednesday. mid-afternoon. locked the car, went inside.
    Missus heads to work early, notices parking lights still on - turns them off for me and sends me an sms.

    I go out expecting to find a flat battery, so I get the charger out and the extension cord....
    car starts first chirp. Bugger me. Even I was surprised. The battery eyeglass was indicating it needed a charge....

    So you can leave your parkers on for more than 15 hours and not flatten your battery - to which I'm going to ask, have you checked ALL the door contacts AND the underbonnet contact for the engine bay lamp, as well as the tailgate? - Don't shoot the messenger - I'm only asking!

    I cleaned every single one when I purchased the vehicle. I also replaced the interior overhead lamps with LED festoons. I have not done anything to the door lamps (incandescant still, bit of a PITA for LED's in a moisture-prone area), the engine bay lamp is the same ****weak ba9s or whatever it's called globe - i.e. useless. I have plans for a larger LED light under the bonnet - one with a manual switch - because the spring contact one is just junk.

    I don't know how far you go when you check your electricals, but when I do stuff like this, I always test in ciruit voltages and current draw at these contact areas and especially on the dodgy spring-contact switches. It's not unusual to see voltage drops of 2v or more on crappy contacts and corroded wiring - and this means the current required is greater to make the circuit work. I've solved numerous RRC issues just by following this practice as I go - but as you know and understand, it's not always going to prevent something else from becoming a problem... It is a Range Rover after all.

    Once everything is properly cleaned, de-oxidized and in some cases, rewired/soldered/heatshrunk etc, then the problem potential for that connection is reduced to near-zero.

    I'll also ask if your radio has an ignition bypass feed - if it does, check the current draw. Sometimes, this can drain a battery.

    Insofar as the lights coming on when they shouldn't, it's generally accepted that the issue is a stuck contact on a door switch, or bare wiring completing the circuit nearby.
    Those door contact switches are just cheap and nasty. The one in the tailgate is in a stupid location too.

    I also rigged up a permanent 'off' switch in the rear left of the headliner, near the tailgate. This allows me to turn off the lights (or turn them on) and bypass the relay. It's perfect for when we go fishing etc at night, and has a telltale ring that prevents me from forgetting it - so you have options available to manually bypass the timer relay - I just don't think that it is the cause of your issue.

    It's more likely to be those stupid spring-contact switches - possibly the wiring behind is shorting on the spring or somesuch.

    I would get rid of that immobilizer - they are notorious for draining batteries overnight. Has happened in every MB I've bought with an aftermarket one fitted. Not immediately mind you - sometimes it's good for a couple of years, but you always end up with the same issue... The 'new' battery starts to lose grunt after a week, and then one morning it's just about cactus. Immobilizers can have strange behavioural symptoms too - you can test them out of circuit and theyre OK, and testing them in circuit often shows no issues. Especially the ones that have backup capacitors to maintain supply when the battery feed is cut. They're all total bollocks and not worth the hassle. They can even stuff up the central locking circuits, so be aware of any stray current around the door lock switches as well.

    They can also cause battery drain through ignition harness issues, because most installers do a really nasty job installing them, with scotchlocks or electrical tape over an unsoldered twisted wire junction.
    I've never seen a decent aftermarket alarm/immobilizer fitted "professionally" by a 'professional installer'. So that's another area worth looking into after you sort out your door contact switches and wiring.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    1,317
    Just another example of odd electrical issue, this time in a 1990 Toyota LCruiser.

    Multimeter showed amp draw that cycled, from near zero to nearly 3 amps then back to near zero, repeating over and over. The amperage rise was quite fast from zero, slowing as it got closer to 3 amps.

    Disconnecting the dash clock stopped the amperage draw. Faulty capacitor or something down steam constantly calling on a capacitor? Was it really the clock? All I know is the battery doesn't go flat now. And knowing the time, well...eh (shrug of shoulders!)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
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    thanks guys,

    I haven't had a chance to look at it ... the wifes poogoe 407 clutch died (bloody thing ... it only gave 80,000kms warning that it was on it's way out .... how dare it die on the spur of the moment like that). So its moved to the front of "**** that must be done yesterday" list. I've just spent 5 hours trying to get the god damned gearbox back on the engine ..... Talk about ready to drag it out of the shed and burn the thing. Those five hours should have been re-assembling the thing so it could be driven. It will be interesting to see how the solid flywheel conversion works either way.

    so range rover sits outside slowly draining its battery still. The alarm/interior light is certinaly the problem. The alarm in 90% removed. but the interior like on tells it there has been a door opened if you lock it with the keys. So it randomly flashes the indictators. It is definatly just the interior light. I haven't had a problem until that **** of a relay started playing up ( it drains the battery quite quicky ... 4 days will knock the battery right down ... you have the four 'door" lights on the doors themselves that are on as well as the interior lights.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.9V8 ... slugomatic
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
    Posts
    3,438
    similar thing with mine, I just removed the interior festoon bulb.

    BTW I think the later RRC came with factory immobiliser so would be very difficult to totally remove I would think?

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