LSE TD5 Update and questions

**gavinwibrow** · 13th March 2018, 01:03 AM

Well, after about 2 or more years of dramas (we don't want to go back there again), Bessie is back on the road, albeit still incomplete.

Current concerns include
T/C light now on all the time (new), ANY THOUGHTS? and
brake lights not activating (hopefully just an adjustment issue, but haven't had a chance to check yet).
I also have to do some more work on the EAS because as of about 3 months ago, its staying in HIGH mode all the time and wont lower or raise.

The good news is my speedo has miraculously suddenly started working again after 2 years absence and after an unrelated trip last week to the auto elec to connect up Anderson and trailer plugs hopefully to pull the brick if the owners manual notification of a 2,500 kgm maximum towing load in high range is just a furphy.

And then there is the new shudder under acceleration which will be checked tomorrow for a possible MAF failure/needing a clean.

**DoubleChevron** · 13th March 2018, 01:40 PM

I'm assuming you have put an LT230 in there ? You must have needed to wire in the diff lock light yourself... just check the wiring, I bet its earthing somewhere. The first rangy I bought always had the diff lock light on ... The previous owner had screwed the light sender in to far (by doing this, not only did the light stay on ... but the diff would never lock).

Have a look at the brake light switch above the brake pedal. I bet the switch is either broken ... or its wires are knocked off (just buy a universal switch from your local auto-electrician if its died).

seeya,
Shane L.

**gavinwibrow** · 13th March 2018, 02:18 PM

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I'm assuming you have put an LT230 in there ? You must have needed to wire in the diff lock light yourself... just check the wiring, I bet its earthing somewhere. The first rangy I bought always had the diff lock light on ... The previous owner had screwed the light sender in to far (by doing this, not only did the light stay on ... but the diff would never lock).

Have a look at the brake light switch above the brake pedal. I bet the switch is either broken ... or its wires are knocked off (just buy a universal switch from your local auto-electrician if its died).

seeya,
Shane L.

G'day, no still has the BW viscous coupling which was rebuilt about 60K ago by the PO in Queensland and has given no trouble to date.
HOWEVER, if I could find a few readies an LT230 (with CDL of course) to go with the 2 Trutracs would be nice.

Yep, my initial thought was the brake light switch - will follow up when i force myself out of the a/c on this warmish day in Perth.
Cheers

**superquag** · 14th March 2018, 05:21 PM

When I last looked at Sarah's brake (pedal) switch, I thought it a bit on the fragile side, - compared to some of the other cars I've had.
Yep, only need a 'universal' or Normally On when extended common switch.
Try the Loose Connector Theory first.

**gavinwibrow** · 14th March 2018, 09:16 PM

Originally Posted by superquag

When I last looked at Sarah's brake (pedal) switch, I thought it a bit on the fragile side, - compared to some of the other cars I've had.
Yep, only need a 'universal' or Normally On when extended common switch.
Try the Loose Connector Theory first.

Cheers Sir James.

Coincidentally called in to DazzaTD5's today, and ended up lending him my Nanocom for some D2 programming over the weekend as he was having problems with his newly acquired one ex Cyprus. In return, amongst other minor treasures, scored a 2nd brake light switch, but after testing it was also a no go, so will be off back to the auto elec to find out what has gone wrong.

Also called in to meet Kevin at Rovertech, and Bessie is now booked in for some TLC after Easter/end of April when apparently it quietens down after the summer and warm long weekend travels. Mainly EAS related stuff after Malcolm's terminally interrupted ministrations eg missing EAS diagnostic plug when I tried to connect the BBS Kicker, can't get height adjustment from control switches, and apparently have no EAS height lock switch for working on car/transportation.

Still basking in finally and unexpectedly having a working speedo after 2 years, and not thinking about the list of "pending" other niggles.

Didn't do any good at Windscreen O'Briens in Welshpool/Kewdale for a re-soldering of the terminal on the rear window demister option, so that was a bum steer suggestion/recommendation, and now about to revisit potential glues that will conduct electrons.

Home alone for the rest of this week, then grandie sitting down south next week, so feel free to call in prior and work the coffee machine.

**superquag** · 15th March 2018, 12:18 AM

Forsooth Sir, have a care for wot thou wishes for...

**AK83** · 15th March 2018, 09:14 AM

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

....
brake lights not activating (hopefully just an adjustment issue, but haven't had a chance to check yet).
...

KISS!
first thing to check are the globes themselves(if you haven't already)

Made that mistake myself a while back.
Brother's D2 had no operational brake lights.
Obvious thing to check for was the switch.
Easy to R/R when you know how(I now know how having done it ten times on his).
Have a good known spare off my wreck, checked with multimeter, but replacing the brothers gave zero brake lights.
Went to RAVE to find all the wiring connections and stuff, traced this, checked that .. etc
3hrs later, I had nothing to show for it other than cuts and scratches on my hands.
Then thought may be the actual light units themselves checked tracks, all confirmed, plugs perfect.
Never thought to check that all 3 light globes would blow tho!

massive Doh! moment for me too.

replaced centre high mount globe with an LED, but LEDs don't work in the rear units on a D2.

Thread: LSE TD5 Update and questions

Thread Tools

LSE TD5 Update and questions

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions