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Thread: RRC Project - Nardo Grey resto mod

  1. #11
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomhumming View Post
    Yes Saw it Looks great. Was disappointed when I saw it cause I thought I was going to be the first lol. But its a great looking RRC.
    I always thought a copper colour, similar to the Range Stormer concept would be a great one for a two-door RRC restomod.

  2. #12
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    Jan 1970
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    Two Rocks WA
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    Regarding suspension I have always had king springs with 2 inch lift with Koni gas adjustable shocks all round..Suspension bushes Rubber is always the best but quality but now day it varies,so it might last years and then it might last a few weeks.
    I now have Poly bushes throuout and these make the ride a bit harsher, but they have been on the rangie now for 8 years. The shocks also poly at both ends.
    I bought a complete kit from the uk from Britparts, was about 250 back then.
    I also have polairs inside the rear springs.
    The ride is firm but not to hard, but i do get more road noise through, rubber is definitley better to cut out the harshness.
    The shocks have done about 350000kms and are still good
    Good luck with the re ferb!!
    Brad
    Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
    LROCWA Ex member 23 years
    1971 Series 2A
    2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
    2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
    1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
    1989 Vogue auto
    2011 TDV8 Vogue
    What would life be without a Rangie?



  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    Northcote
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    getting back on the road

    Well... I had been doing driving for a while on a permit...and got a massive fine. That was dumb. So I took the RRC into Ritters to get it checked out for what it will need for a RWC and to solve a noise and vibration from the frontend as well.

    The list is long....probably too many years of neglect from previous owners...
    Rust in passenger floor - started fixing this.
    Power steering pump - leak
    Suspension bushes
    Training arm bushes
    Brake fluid warning light not connected
    Exhaust leak LH
    Exhaust mounting
    Demister fan
    LHR Rotor - undersized lol
    Seat beats - RHF and LHR
    Purge pipe broken
    Engine mounts

    All up a lot of ****ty things to fix, Im planning on tacking most of them myself, I think that the labour costs on some of them are crazy. But I imagine they'd do a great job as well.

    The Vibration noise appears to be a Uni joint and Im looking at picking up a second hand Prop shaft and just replacing it straight.

    Its a tail of woes lol, I have a budget of $3k im trying to get it all done in and I think if I tackle the issues myself and use second hand parts then I should be ok.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomhumming View Post
    Well... I had been doing driving for a while on a permit...and got a massive fine. That was dumb. So I took the RRC into Ritters to get it checked out for what it will need for a RWC and to solve a noise and vibration from the frontend as well.

    The list is long....probably too many years of neglect from previous owners...
    Rust in passenger floor - started fixing this.
    Power steering pump - leak
    Suspension bushes
    Training arm bushes
    Brake fluid warning light not connected
    Exhaust leak LH
    Exhaust mounting
    Demister fan
    LHR Rotor - undersized lol
    Seat beats - RHF and LHR
    Purge pipe broken
    Engine mounts

    All up a lot of ****ty things to fix, Im planning on tacking most of them myself, I think that the labour costs on some of them are crazy. But I imagine they'd do a great job as well.

    The Vibration noise appears to be a Uni joint and Im looking at picking up a second hand Prop shaft and just replacing it straight.

    Its a tail of woes lol, I have a budget of $3k im trying to get it all done in and I think if I tackle the issues myself and use second hand parts then I should be ok.
    At least none of that list is bull**** (brake fluid level wires aside) and everything mentioned you really need to fix either way. Its going to be way nicer to drive once you sort through those things.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  5. #15
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    Tackled the fan resistor today for the heater...it was cooked as...like burnt out on day one and sat in there rusting for 28 years lol. Anyway didn't have any luck pulling the red connector through to make my life easy. So dash will be off on the weekend.

    Also for anyone who has done this job and noted the foam disintegrate in your hands - have you replaced it with some stuff from clarks rubber?

    Cheers

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Fremantle WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomhumming View Post
    Also for anyone who has done this job and noted the foam disintegrate in your hands - have you replaced it with some stuff from clarks rubber?

    Cheers
    Yep, they were pretty helpful and had a couple of options. I ended up with a piece that I had to cut lengthwise.
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  7. #17
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    Feb 2018
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    Northcote
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    So far have gotten into the passenger floor, patched and almost finished prep for a spray. Still need to do the underbody bit - should I fibreglass or fill the underbody?

    Also here is my Fan Resistor....lol what a piece of kit! Anyone know where to get a new one cheaper than rimmer bros - looks like $95 landed from the UK.

    Cheers Tommy
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Fremantle WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomhumming View Post
    So far have gotten into the passenger floor, patched and almost finished prep for a spray. Still need to do the underbody bit - should I fibreglass or fill the underbody?

    Also here is my Fan Resistor....lol what a piece of kit! Anyone know where to get a new one cheaper than rimmer bros - looks like $95 landed from the UK.

    Cheers Tommy

    If you are not in a hurry, and for the cost of postage only, sometime in the next few days I can check my magic box of bits from a 93 wreck and see (i) if I kept the resistor and (ii) see if it is any good - don't know how to do that but someone will chip in if I find it.
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #19
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    Feb 2018
    Location
    Northcote
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    If you are not in a hurry, and for the cost of postage only, sometime in the next few days I can check my magic box of bits from a 93 wreck and see (i) if I kept the resistor and (ii) see if it is any good - don't know how to do that but someone will chip in if I find it.
    cheers

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomhumming View Post
    cheers
    Sorry, turned the seatainer upside down today, but no go/couldn't find it, so suspect we either binned it when wrecking, or I gave it away at the time.
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

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