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Thread: Paint

  1. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meccles View Post
    Shane you’re as good with sealant as I am which is to say crap[emoji3]but recently brought the Cramer Fuji silicone shaping tool set its awesome- and cheap. EBay only not sold in Oz.
    Cramer 5-fugi kit Fugi Kit Grouting & Silicone Profiling & Applicator Tool Kit 4027316404052 | eBay
    $2.50 at bunnings for 4, they have 16 profiles it total. Nothing beats watered down Windex and an icy pole stick though.
    This stuff is polyurethane though same as sikaflex, there is no real neat way to apply it. Some spray helps smooth it but it still a PITA.
    Cheers Jim

  2. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRJim View Post
    $2.50 at bunnings for 4, they have 16 profiles it total. Nothing beats watered down Windex and an icy pole stick though.
    This stuff is polyurethane though same as sikaflex, there is no real neat way to apply it. Some spray helps smooth it but it still a PITA.
    Cheers Jim
    The polyurethane is much harder to tool. I have a set of silicon tools.... There a waste of time IMO .... Your finger works better ..... (at least that is what I find). Silicon tools a lot nicer than the urethanes. There isn't a snowmans chance in hell I'm going near a car with silicon though! This stuff will no doubt last the life of the car. It mightn't look flash, but it doesn't look much worse than the factory seam sealer that looks like it was put on with a yard broom!

    It'll look lovely once everything is back in covering it all either way I have painted the area ... with a decent killrust type paint. I don't care what it looks like, I want structural integrity and no more rust over "pretty" anyday! The scuttle panel, A/C hoses, firewall insulating blanket etc.... cover 97.85% of the area I have painted/sealed.

    A part of the reason I get the finish so bad is I'm pushing the sealer down into the crevice. I"m not interested in running a "pretty" bead across the top. I'm filling every seem and void with that stuff. I have the same issue when I work on caravans. I "squeeze" the sealer out as I assemble.... Which leaves a ****house finish. But I 100% guarantee it'll never leak. Assemble it then run a pretty bead of silicon down the edges, and it'll look pretty .................. but almost always leak like a sieve

    The reason I pulled the pedal box is I realised I was a pedal short .... We need a clutch!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  3. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    The polyurethane is much harder to tool. I have a set of silicon tools.... There a waste of time IMO .... Your finger works better ..... (at least that is what I find). Silicon tools a lot nicer than the urethanes. There isn't a snowmans chance in hell I'm going near a car with silicon though! This stuff will no doubt last the life of the car. It mightn't look flash, but it doesn't look much worse than the factory seam sealer that looks like it was put on with a yard broom!

    It'll look lovely once everything is back in covering it all either way I have painted the area ... with a decent killrust type paint. I don't care what it looks like, I want structural integrity and no more rust over "pretty" anyday! The scuttle panel, A/C hoses, firewall insulating blanket etc.... cover 97.85% of the area I have painted/sealed.

    A part of the reason I get the finish so bad is I'm pushing the sealer down into the crevice. I"m not interested in running a "pretty" bead across the top. I'm filling every seem and void with that stuff. I have the same issue when I work on caravans. I "squeeze" the sealer out as I assemble.... Which leaves a ****house finish. But I 100% guarantee it'll never leak. Assemble it then run a pretty bead of silicon down the edges, and it'll look pretty .................. but almost always leak like a sieve

    The reason I pulled the pedal box is I realised I was a pedal short .... We need a clutch!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Dw I know it's a PITA I used to use it all the bloody time, tooling it neat between tilt panels is a nightmare. And some one always sticks their finger in it, glad I don't have to smooth anymore I just use it as a sealant. I found warming the sausages up helps with smoothing and it's easier to gun but it loses its slump. If their cold you can build it up but yeah harder to gun.
    Anyway looking awsome [emoji106]
    Cheers Jim

  4. #174
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    This stuff is very strange.



    Paint-w4.jpg

    I spent bloody ages trying to mix it .... It stayed a blue colour with "rainbows" of unmixed "stuff" through it.... very weird.

    Paint-w2.jpg

    Paint-w3.jpg

    very strange .... these water based killrust paints seem to work really well (I wanted something decent to brush on ... I'm not interested in finish or brush marks... I want "sealed" and "no more rust".

    Paint-w6.jpg

    Paint-w7.jpg

    It did dry black though .... So it must be the way the stuff works. Bizare or what!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  5. #175
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    I'm watching your thread with interest.
    I started another project a few weeks back and started with the idea that I can patch a few bits here and there but the rust along all the seams in the firewall is just starting and after finding the front seat bases welded down due to rusted out bolt mounts I have given up and am going to write off the body and cut a new front half in from a donor.
    I'm watching your thread for how you tackle allot of the niggles I have and you do it so well you must be pouring time in! Your doing a great job!

    IMG_20180603_221533.jpg

    2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
    and a Nissan Cube............
    South Australia.

  6. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsp View Post
    I'm watching your thread with interest.
    I started another project a few weeks back and started with the idea that I can patch a few bits here and there but the rust along all the seams in the firewall is just starting and after finding the front seat bases welded down due to rusted out bolt mounts I have given up and am going to write off the body and cut a new front half in from a donor.
    I'm watching your thread for how you tackle allot of the niggles I have and you do it so well you must be pouring time in! Your doing a great job!

    IMG_20180603_221533.jpg

    Oh .... wow ... I"m just not going to look there. If I don't know there is rust under those guards, I won't feel obligated to anything about it!

    Those inner guards look easy enough to replace though

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  7. #177
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    Hi Shane, I have been following your work from the start. A great transformation, you have put a lot of time and effort into this project. Have you any photos of the finished Rangie??
    Cheers,
    Phil.

  8. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeman View Post
    Hi Shane, I have been following your work from the start. A great transformation, you have put a lot of time and effort into this project. Have you any photos of the finished Rangie??
    Cheers,
    Phil.
    Not a lot is happening. I'm pulling the bent car apart so I can have my choice of "bits" to use for the re-assembly. The shiny ****box should end up with a Disco serpentine belt 3.9, R380 and LT230. I also want to do stuff like change the injector seals, re-route the heater hoses so the lpg converter gets full flow ( the things always freeze up under full load, especially on cold mornings).... and also run any/all of the extra wiring/cable through the firewall and get some proper bungs in there to stop smells/heat getting into the car.

    Then I'll peal off any existing ( manky ) oil soaked firewall and bonnet blankets and replace with that insulation. I have two bonnet blankets and they are both no good (they have collapsed in the middle and touch the motor when the bonnet is shut).

    I'm also adding a cheap ***wired*** reverse camera so that I can back upto trailers without having to get and and check 20times to see if I'm lined up


    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  9. #179
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    Well I now know one thing. If you play with those deteriorated bonnet sound blankets to try and make a pattern out of them ................ You will be itchy for bloody hours Those suckers must be full of glass type particles like the old insulation bats were years ago. I still need to pull the firewall insulation off and trace it out (however it'll probably come off is small oil soaked chunks).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  10. #180
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    Glass fibers.... modern day asbestos....

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