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Thread: Paint

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    The previous owner of the white 2 door I sold earlier this year actually removed the roof to paint it.

    He figured it would be easier doing it that way............ I dunno about that!

    Looked ok though, in white 2 pack. Didn't have a mirror sheen.

    DL
    I painted an old Citroen wagon once in white 2pack .......... The white colours I find look "clean and tidy" as opposed to shiny. They do look shiny under lighting though. Excellent for beginners as it hides so many sins. I used to think white sucked.... But I've a few old classic cars around recently done up in white.... And it looks great. Really fresh and tidy. When nearly every modern car on the roads is a perl/metaliic ... the old "plain" colours start to look really tidy and clean as opposed to "boring".

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  2. #102
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    And lets face it, most car makers offer Black, Grey, White and Red or variations of those. Mazda seem to buck the trend, but for the most part, I think around 80% of new vehicles would fall into one of those colour groups - blood sheep....

    Keep doing what you're doing Shane - love the colour the RRC is becoming, it will certainly stand out amongst the crowd.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #103
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    I've started with the drivers door ... and bits off the car as they only got two coats of primer (rather than 3). I think they should be ok.

    Paint-s9.jpg

    I reckon all you really need is one of these rubber blocks for this ... But seeing I have that big kit I wanted to try the various blocks.

    Paint-s4.jpg

    Paint-s5.jpg

    I've never used long blocks like this before... I went with the smallest crown .. so across the bonnet down at the front ... and down the length of it further up... Your going to end up with one seriously straight panel doing it this way. Really though, its use it limited to big panels (eg: roof and bonnet)... so probably not worth the $$$.

    Paint-s10.jpg

    This thin long block though ... what a ripper for doing down all the edges..... How much is doing the roof going to suck with all hose ridges formed it it... See how it conforms to the shape of the panel.

    Paint-s7.jpg

    Paint-s6.jpg

    That's amazing ... it's picked up a low spot in the fold in the bonnet .... this is because its long, but bendy enough to follow the line and not dig in. I'm going to fix this by pretending its fine (this isn't a show car... its a 4wd that'll probably get scratched within a few weeks of being back on the road). I'm ignoring any stone chips or marks as i find them ... otherwise I'll be here for bloody ever and never get the car back together.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  4. #104
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    Paint

    Hi Shane,

    Been away from the forum for a few weeks and look what I've missed.

    You have one a great job and the Rangie is coming along nicely.
    Its all in the prep work and that Blue coupled with the finish from the gun its looking great .... you can't call her a ****box anymore.

    With you gun is there is a breather hole in the top section .... need to make sure that's not blocked specially when you have the gun filled and spraying.
    I've had problems with paint spitting from the gun due to something as simple as the hole being blocked.

    Drums and planks have worked for me in the past ... setting them up so you can paint one half then the other and go back and forth till the roofs painted and you can then
    concentrate on the rest of the car

    As you have already pointed out spraying a Rangie is a stretch whichever way you look at it ... and as others have said just be very careful after your recent fall.

    We're all not getting any younger and recovery takes sooo much longer

    Look forward to future posts ...


    Baggy

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Hi Shane,

    Been away from the forum for a few weeks and look what I've missed.

    You have one a great job and the Rangie is coming along nicely.
    Its all in the prep work and that Blue coupled with the finish from the gun its looking great .... you can't call her a ****box anymore.

    With you gun is there is a breather hole in the top section .... need to make sure that's not blocked specially when you have the gun filled and spraying.
    I've had problems with paint spitting from the gun due to something as simple as the hole being blocked.

    Drums and planks have worked for me in the past ... setting them up so you can paint one half then the other and go back and forth till the roofs painted and you can then
    concentrate on the rest of the car

    As you have already pointed out spraying a Rangie is a stretch whichever way you look at it ... and as others have said just be very careful after your recent fall.

    We're all not getting any younger and recovery takes sooo much longer

    Look forward to future posts ...

    Baggy
    I've been thinking about the roof. I'm guessing the only way to do that would be a stack of large garden pavers .... with some garden sleepers laying across them. It probably won't need to be super high if I can put it close to the car .... They would need to be down both sides of the car so I don't need to move them. The issue is you need two trestles. You can't move the one as you need to continue the wet edge in the middle of the roof. ie: not spend 5minutes moving your trestle to the other side (or the wet edge will have dried).

    After sanding most of the bonnet... I've come to the realisation this is weeks away. There is going to be hours in sanding the guide coat off that roof. With all those ridges pressed into the roof, it will be a very time demanding job to prep.

    Not to mention boss women is starting to get 'slightly annoyed' with me running off to the shed all the time rather than doing "more important" stuff around the house.... Pffftt, as though anything could be more important that tinkering out in the shed!

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  6. #106
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    Paint

    Hi Shane,

    You do know your painting and I totally agree on roof however you'd have to climb up there to pick any anomalies .... and a good buff may just fix that.

    It starts out as a quick I'll give it a squirt over I'm not going to be too fussy ... its a 4x4 ... I can't leave those minor imperfections ... but in the end ... she's going to LOOK SWEET

    Can't wait to see more photo's ....

    Cheers

    Baggy

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Hi Shane,

    You do know your painting and I totally agree on roof however you'd have to climb up there to pick any anomalies .... and a good buff may just fix that.

    It starts out as a quick I'll give it a squirt over I'm not going to be too fussy ... its a 4x4 ... I can't leave those minor imperfections ... but in the end ... she's going to LOOK SWEET

    Can't wait to see more photo's ....

    Cheers

    Baggy
    Have you got a camera in my shed

    Last time I was at the paint shop I asked for "super fine" putty for tiny marks etc....



    I was sold this ... it is super fine ... really nice, but no good for this. It's not thin enough, and sets too hard. On a whim, I called into the paint shop. This time a different person was there... and I said "Do you have any spot putty for pinholes... Not that single pack crap that shrinks viciously"...... And he walked straight over and said "this is what all the tradies use"....



    hmmm.... It has a hardener... and is the perfect consistancy. You squeeze it out like a really thin tooth paste. that tiny foil packet beside it is hardener.



    As usual I suck at applying it and making it look level....



    Its sands absolutely bloody lovely .... no wonder tradies use it... Marvellous stuff. Not cheap at over $30bucks ... but that small packet would last me a lifetime (infact I'm sure I'll throw 99.9% of it out as it'll go out of date).



    Here is a stone chip I filled with it. excellent stuff.



    I'm probably at the starting point now for a really nice paint job ................. But bugger it, close enough, lets throw some colour on there and move on.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  8. #108
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    Well I'm learning .... The reason I was at the paint shop to ask about that spot putty was to grab some measuring containers.... DO NOT mix the paint in the same container as the last batch (yes I could hang around and clean the containers after pouring into the gun, but I'm not doing that.... I'd rather just get the paint on and done). The mixing containers are about $1.00 each.




    tomorrow I'll go out and have a close look. I don't like being around fresh curing 2pack paint. I noticed after the 1st coat on the bonnet it looked dry in the middle .... On the 2nd coat I noticed as I was at full stretch I was holding the gun to high and travelling much faster in the middle of the bonnet. I'm hoping I don't need to colour sand and polish due to this. On the 3rd (final) coat, I used my good hand and concentrated on moving slowly and holding the gun at the right distance at full stretch.



    The gun ran out of paint doing the 2nd coat on the boot lid .... Hmm... I hope that doesn't leave a dry mark in the paint. I also noticed the gun was weeping down the side of the pot from the lid... So I gave it a good tighten up.



    The gun felt lightish. ... so I checked the paint before starting the skuttle ... Damn it, because I tightened the lid 'cos it was weeping the pot started to unscrew from the gun ......... Urrr..... bugger it .... I love to make life difficult for myself. I held the pot in one hand and thought to myself "You probably will hurt yourself if you do this moron ....." ... and grabbed the lid with my bad hand to unscrew it ..... Yep, that sure as **** did hurt when the cap suddenly came loose.... felt it from my shoulder to my finger tips .... just as well I was holding the gun between my knees or I would have dropped it ..... Then my hand didn't want to work for about 5minutes (stupid or what). What was even dumber is I still ran out of paint as I was doing the scuttle either way It'll be interesting to see if the last coat where I was even more careful (not to run out of paint or go to fast) has removed the dry areas.







    There is a little bit of crap in the paint .... It'll have blown in through the blower fan... I might try to put some sort of filter on the heater and blower fan so they don't blow anything in..... Still not much given it's painted in a shed.



    Oh, did I mention I knocked the fuel filler flap off the table when I was sanding the bonnet and chipped the **** out of the edges of it back to bare metal.... Well I just feathered out the chips and sprayed some of that pressure pack Hi-chem super etch primer onto the edges of it. Look at that. I guess the Hi-chem stuff is also impervious to urethane coatings as well (it would have crinkled up if it wasn't).

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  9. #109
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    To put the finish of that cheap paint into perspective. This is what my Citroen CX looked like straight off the gun. Same painter (me) same spray gun, same compressor etc.... The paint is Acrylic laquer dulon.





    This is what I hoping to avoid .... countless hours of colour sanding and polishing the top coat.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I've been thinking about the roof. I'm guessing the only way to do that would be a stack of large garden pavers .... with some garden sleepers laying across them. It probably won't need to be super high if I can put it close to the car .... They would need to be down both sides of the car so I don't need to move them. The issue is you need two trestles. You can't move the one as you need to continue the wet edge in the middle of the roof. ie: not spend 5minutes moving your trestle to the other side (or the wet edge will have dried).......................

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Shane Aldi (at least in Drysdale) have folding stands like brickies use with planks but lighter.

    Max height 1300mm, 200kg cap each, $30 each. They fold flat.

    Paint looks great!

    cheers, DL

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