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Thread: Axle assembly rebuilds - finally getting around to it

  1. #1
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    Axle assembly rebuilds - finally getting around to it

    "Some time ago" (can't remember exactly but it is at least a year, possibly two) I purchased a heap of spare parts for what was going to be a manual gearbox / LT230 conversion for the RRC.

    I happened upon a 2 door D1 a guy was parting out, and after a while I decided to get a whole bunch of stuff, including the diffs and some other sundry parts.

    The diffs have been sitting out in front of my garage on a pallette covered over for at least 12 months after I degreased and pressure-cleaned them. Well, the rust didn't get any worse than it was originally, but I did have some fun getting out the aframe balljoint (more on that later)

    So down to brass tacks.

    The rear's apart. It's 24-spline and has hitough axles. Bonus!. hubs are ok and need a good blast, spindles have some wear at the bearing surfaces and seal lip.

    Front's almost apart, still have the swivels attached, and the spindles are still on - so the cv's haven't been pulled out yet. The swivels are my concern.

    They have some surface rust pitting on them, and I obviously have some choices available.

    exchange set, chromed

    new set chrome or teflon ?

    get existing ones reground and hard chromed locally.

    Since the spindles could all probably do with a clean-up and the seal lips either reground or spray-welded new material onto them (or hard chromed) then There is an option.

    But I really do not know whether the expense is worth it or if new parts are the way to go.

    Since I already have all the bearings and shims and seals for both axle assemblies, I figure I want the whole shebang to last. And swivel seals are a pain in the ass to do, so it makes sense to "do it right, do it once"

    I'd be interested to know what peoples experiences are with teflon swivels, or buying new ones versus an exhange set which has been redone.

    Since the hard chroming guys are just down the road, I could take it to them, but it would obviously help to know if it's worth doing in the first place.

    The other issue is that I have heard different stories about the hub spindles - in that only the genuine LR ones are any good. Is there any truth to that rumour, or is it BS?

    If anyone has any additional tips on things worth doing while I have these stripped, please offer your suggestions.

    Housings will be blasted and powdercoated, and I have thought about "strengthening options" but not committed.

    Also the a-frame balljoint....

    If I raise the suspension by 2" then ideally I should either raise the mount or get a maxidrive raised balljoint, yes? I have a brand new MD balljoint sitting here for a bit over 12 months, but it's not the raised one. So if I need to raise the bracket, now would be a good time - or if it's a better idea to get the adjustable joint please let me know.

    cheers!

  2. #2
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    Well I guess that answers that question ............................. ie: none of us know You could try reposting in the technical forum so the series/defenders/disco owners will also see the post ?

    seeya
    Shane L.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    I did have some fun getting out the aframe balljoint (more on that later)
    Re the ball joint. A lot of socket sets come with full length barrel shaped sockets. I have a set of older Sidchrome sockets that are wasted or reduce in diameter about half way along the length of the socket. This wasting give the clearance necessary to get around the bracketing holding the bolt and to get good purchase on the nut. With an extension bar the nut is easily removed. Well, leave the nut partly on so you can hit the bolt to drive it out of its hole. Putting a jack under the A-frame and letting the axle assist via gravity, can help with the removal.

    Can't really comment on the effect of a 2" lift on the ball joint, my guess is the effect would be marginal; there is plenty of swivel range.

    I though of putting 1997 D1 axle housings under my 84 RRC but I held off because I get the impression the bearing spindle is wider in the older RRC than in those in the D1. To-date I've not bothered working out if there are any implications. Are the earlier D1's (two door) same spindle specs as RRC?

    Not sure I understand the question about replacing the spindles. If its worn bearings, just replace the bearing and race.

    Edit: actually now i do remember some reports of the brake disc component breaking from the hub. Buy LR or reputable manufacturer or retailer(s) who support this site.

  4. #4
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    Hi Merc,

    If the purpose of installing the raised ball joint is keeping your rear propshaft uni's happy with a 2" lift don't waste your time. The rear prop is still really straight from drum to diff with 2".

    If your concern is to do with binding I don't believe it's an issue till you go much further with a spring lift...... like 3+".

    I've had a 2" lift for yonks and have had no probs with binding.

    I would suggest 2" (or even 4") extended brakelines.

    The other thing that comes into play is the droop allowed by the shocks you are going to use, that's just as pertinent as the lift.

    DL

  5. #5
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    2" bodylift and 2" on springs.

    Was looking at cranked arms, and 12" short body r/res bilstein 7100's but I dislike the orientation of the 7100 body on the rear (exposed shaft) That obviously involves raised front mounts and rear damper to chassis rail mounts as well. plus coil retainers and a need for a swaybar disconnect setup ( or to somehow not run them at all).

    But before I get too far into the whole suspension vs flex thing, I have a more pressing engagement to hack into the bodywork with a nibbler and fit flares... which I really really really didn't want to do - but I understand it is the price one must pay to fit the rims and tyres I have, the chop is a mandatory requirement, along with the body lift or the +2 inch coils at the minimum.

    Still, all of that's down the track. I have to finish the axle assemblies and get them under the chassis first. I do worry about cutting into the sheetmetal, despite the widely understood and easily undertaken task. But there's a difference between just doing it, and doing it properly. Then again, I have to ask myself, is the Rangie worth worrying about in that respect...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    2" bodylift and 2" on springs.
    I understand it is the price one must pay to fit the rims and tyres I have, the chop is a mandatory requirement, along with the body lift or the +2 inch coils at the minimum.

    and the proposed tyre/rim sizes are?
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  7. #7
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    16x8 ET -11 and the tyres are 255/86R16.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    16x8 ET -11 and the tyres are 255/86R16.
    Ta. typo at 86R16?
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #9
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    255/85R16, obviously a typo- since metric 86 series tyres aren't available off the shelf.

    I never thought a typo would command such importance.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    255/85R16, obviously a typo- since metric 86 series tyres aren't available off the shelf.

    I never thought a typo would command such importance.

    With your excellent work, and you being such a lateral thinker, anything is possible!!!

    While we are at it, what do you have at the moment, and any other preference for tyre brand for this size?
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

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