Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: The DREADED upper tail gate

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    10

    The DREADED upper tail gate

    Well going over the Rangie I picked up last week I just can't get the upper tailgate unlocked even after a good soaking in WD40 so I climbed into the back and inspecting it a little closer it seems that the whole locking mechanism is just a rusted block
    So I was after some advice from you guys in the know of how I can get the tailgate open without destroying the glass I'm picking up a good one on the weekend but want to keep the glass just as a spare as I have broken a rear window before 4wding in a Surf but that's a tale for another day.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
    Posts
    2,226
    Sorry, if it is a rusted block as you say then I cannot figure out a way to open it without damaging it. If it was mine a good jemmy bar around the edges would be called into play. since you are getting a replacement. Make sure you protect the body itself using blocks of softwood & heavy cloth.
    If the glass goes, then you have at least tried. It's called Collateral Damage.
    Good luck.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Wandong,Victoria,Australia
    Posts
    1,776
    I havenít tried, but can you unbolt the hinges from the inside. Take the whole thing off, then drill out the welds?
    54 Series 1 86
    60 Series 2 88
    61 Series 2 109
    76 2 Door Range Rover
    78 101 Forward Control
    83 Stage 1 V8
    88 Perentie FFR
    90 4 Door Range Rover
    93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi
    98 Freelander 1

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,634
    I'd be unpicking the covers off the lock rods and operating them manually. Failing that run the angle grinder through the sides of the gate and cut the pins off the striker plates. Just cover the glass first.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    I'd be unpicking the covers off the lock rods and operating them manually. Failing that run the angle grinder through the sides of the gate and cut the pins off the striker plates. Just cover the glass first.
    Grinder of course........ Why didn't I think of that

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Now I dont wanna speak Illawarra, but how much can a Koala Bear?
    Posts
    553
    I wouldn't have thought that it would be too difficult to remove the locking rod covers if the back has rust - because the little philips head screws are ****weak anyway. the lightest tap should knock the head off them if they are rusty.. In the middle, once the 3rd brakelight housing is undone it's a cinch to get to the lock handle screws and remove the whole thing, but the easiest outcome is that pulling the latch rods inwards would free the latches.

    It must be choc full of crap and rust and silt and junk to be siezed solid, Not something that's uncommon, but not something you see every day either. More often than not the surround rusts away in the corners and the base before the locks sieze

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    10
    Well the ends and locking system on both ends were all rusted solid so I managed to unbolt the top hinges and then cut one locking pin with the grinder then popped it out and installed the gate I picked up yesterday with a replacement pin I got with the gate, realigned it and it now works a treat
    Now I just need new gas struts so look out e-Bay and bank account as here I come shopping for parts

    Trav Man

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    2,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Trav Man View Post
    Well the ends and locking system on both ends were all rusted solid so I managed to unbolt the top hinges and then cut one locking pin with the grinder then popped it out and installed the gate I picked up yesterday with a replacement pin I got with the gate, realigned it and it now works a treat
    Now I just need new gas struts so look out e-Bay and bank account as here I come shopping for parts

    Trav Man

    If you haven't found them within a couple of days when I get home, I'll look up the local company where I recently got my struts at a very reasonable price.

    ALSO - have you done the mod that keeps the rear upper shut rather than it open at the most inopportune moments - basically changeover of locating points for struts so becomes close orientated rather than open? I have the instructions I can send if not - needs an email address from you as pics make it too big to post here.
    Dan - MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic (2nd engine @ 153K) set up for touring
    Bessie - MY95 RRC LSE Vogue SoftDash with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplant

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!