Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Power Steering Pump Rebuild.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St Agnes, SA
    Posts
    593
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Power Steering Pump Rebuild.

    Morning guys!

    One of the jobs I had to do with the front of this car was rebuild the power steering pump. When I ordered the parts, I followed the bouncing ball for my VIN (FA) and got the "correct" kit.

    Upon removing the pump I noticed it looked different to the one in the RAVE manual for my year. After a bit of chasing, I found the manual had this type listed for the 3.9 and further reading told me that it is unserviceable.

    Well seal kits are available and it's currently 90% apart. The lip seal that is leaking is on the drive shaft and I'm at a point where I can workout and get either to happen, remove the vane drive or pulley mount.

    What's the chance that someone as had one apart and can advise me which end to pursue.

    Pump part number is ANR2003.

    Cheers, look forward to your replies.
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St Agnes, SA
    Posts
    593
    Total Downloaded
    0
    All good, I got it!

    Missus took the kids out for the morning and magic happened.

    There are two spring clips on the vane end and you have to shuffle the inner one back to allow you to remove the outer.

    Cheers
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St Agnes, SA
    Posts
    593
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey guys,

    Just to dig this thread up again.

    I am hoping someone has pulled one apart or could pull one apart for me to confirm the correct fitment of the pressure relief valve on the ANR 2003 power steering pump (as per the one in the link below).

    When I reassembled mine, I must have been distracted (by a few months) when I removed the valve, as I can't for the life of me remember which way it is supposed to go. A couple of different ways have provided mixed results, non of them favourable.

    Thanks in advance.

    ANR2003 - Power Steering Pump Range Rover Classic 87-94. Discovery 1 V8 to JA34313 and 90/110 November 1986/93
    ANR2003 - Power Steering Pump Range Rover Classic 87-94 ...
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    1,016
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Out of curiosity was your pump whining a lot before you pulled it?

    I'm guessing I need to rebuild mine sometime soon.

    Is your pump the one that looks like a barrel?
    and is it v belt or serpentine belt driven?

    I have not researched the subject as I haven't needed to venture there (yet) so any pointers may be useful.

    I might end up being your pressure valve guineapig if the parts are easily obtainable.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St Agnes, SA
    Posts
    593
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey mercguy,

    No my pump wasn't making any noise, just leaking out of the shaft seal. The seal was pretty hard and fell apart. The seal kit I brought at the time was incorrect for the pump type I have. The pump fitted to my '89 is the type fitted to the '90 onwards RRC. The parts side of the RAVE manual reflected a boxed shape unit and I have the cylinder style - ANR2003. Looks similar to one fitted to the 200/300Tdi's.

    The proper seal kit needed is Stc 1633. I brought this from Rimmer Bros and it contains an o-ring and two shaft seals. The kit possibly covers all the types of pumps in that style. At the time I needed to get the car going so I sourced what I could from CBC, but as it turns out the seals that were available aren't suitable to use with ATF3.

    As a result it is now leaking slightly at the shaft and the o-ring around the housing.

    Now to replace the shaft seal you need to remove the shaft from the vane housing which requires some careful jiggling to remove two spring clips that hold the vane housing in place. Once these are out, shaft can be removed pretty easily then the seal replaced.

    Up to that point, it's pretty much follow the bouncy ball to dismantle the pump.

    When removed from the car, remove the pulley and bracket. You will have to remove the high pressure union (the pressure relief valve and spring are behind this, so take notice of how it goes together), a 1 1/4" spanner or socket is needed here and a vice is recommended - though be careful to not crush the housing with the vice. Once the union is removed, the outside tin housing will need to be removed. Mine had some points on the lip crushed to retain it to the physical pump, as soon as these were straightened, I just used a small soft blow to tap the edge bit by bit until the housing past the first o-ring. As soon as it's past that point it came off easily and revealed the pump. From memory there were three or four bolts holding the pump components together. Before removing them, lightly mark it all with a series of lines across the sections so you can put it back together correctly. Watch out for the vanes when taking the sections apart.

    At this point you are up to dismantling the vane housing from the shaft. I think I explored the idea of using a pulley remover to remove the section where the pulley bolts to the shaft, but again from memory it didn't appear possible. Instead what I ended up doing is shifting the clip between the vane housing and pump body towards the pump body, so I could then move the vane housing enough to remove the outer clip. Once this clip is off, I removed the vane housing and inner clip, then slid the shaft out.

    Assembly was the reversal. Easy peasy if you have the time and patience.

    Now mine has the V-Belt, but it is the same pump as the serpentine set up.

    Regarding your noise, it could be starving of oil or dirty oil. I have read that the ZF reservoir has a filter/strainer in it and this can clog up causing starvation of oil and then Cavitation.

    Ultimately though, the pump is listed as being non-servicable in the manuals, so it's a bit experimental. I have not been able to find any tutorials, instruction or even a breakdown of the pumps hydraulic circuit.

    I may end up having the pump out again tomorrow as that's the last chance I will have for a long while to get it work and have it working properly so I can potentially get it to Melrose this year.
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St Agnes, SA
    Posts
    593
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just a few photos of the pump pulled apart.

    Thought they may be of interest.
    1) The power steering pump ANR 2003

    2) Pressure relief valve removed. Side with ball bearing faces the pressure union

    3) Pump removed from the housing. Housing must act as a secondary reservoir.

    4) Pump dismantled, showing the main components.

    5) The spring clip in here is what needs to be shifted to the housing in order to move the vane housing back. Used a pick with 90 degree end.

    6) There is a spring clip in this gap that retains this housing.

    7) Shaft removed from housing.
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    1,016
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Excellent information.
    Thank-you!

    I might have time in between bloody conference calls to actually walk downstairs and visit my own garage....
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Jersey UK Channel Islands
    Posts
    2
    Total Downloaded
    0

    PAS 200 TDI pump low pressure.

    Hello Konradical,

    I have stopped the leaks in my pump by changing all the seals!

    But now I only have good power steering at low rpm for five to ten seconds after starting the engine, after a few seconds the steering becomes very heavy.

    Does anyone know how free the ball bearing should be in the spool valve (pressure relief valve) you show below. I can tap the ball down but it does not spring back.

    I have assembled with spring first, then spool valve (ball bearing outboard), union fitting.

    Very best from up north.

    Chris

    LR Defender 90 ex MOD, retrofitted 200Tdi engine. LR Defender 110 V8 ex MOD.

    2) Pressure relief valve removed. Side with ball bearing faces the pressure union

    200 Tdi PAS pump circlip.jpg

    Circlip that needs moving to outboard towrds pulley to allow removal of the pump rotor.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    St Agnes, SA
    Posts
    593
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Kooka View Post
    Hello Konradical,

    I have stopped the leaks in my pump by changing all the seals!

    But now I only have good power steering at low rpm for five to ten seconds after starting the engine, after a few seconds the steering becomes very heavy.

    Does anyone know how free the ball bearing should be in the spool valve (pressure relief valve) you show below. I can tap the ball down but it does not spring back.

    I have assembled with spring first, then spool valve (ball bearing outboard), union fitting.

    Very best from up north.

    Chris

    LR Defender 90 ex MOD, retrofitted 200Tdi engine. LR Defender 110 V8 ex MOD.

    2) Pressure relief valve removed. Side with ball bearing faces the pressure union

    200 Tdi PAS pump circlip.jpg

    Circlip that needs moving to outboard towrds pulley to allow removal of the pump rotor.
    Hi Kooka,

    That ball bearing needs to be tight, hard to depress even and that is the relief valve in the system. As the RPM picks up, flow from the pump increases = more pressure, so it sounds like the valve is releasing the fluid you need.

    If you have it back out, give it a good clean and make sure there is no muck in there. Also make sure it doesn't rattle when you shake it, could mean a broken screen inside.
    '15 Discovery 4 HSE- The family bus and the kids like it!
    '89 RRC- My favorite of the bunch!
    Ex '03 Commodore 'S' ute- 450hp of uncracked 5.7lt and 6 speed manual uteness - Still crying that its gone
    Ex '06 GLXR Triton- *Gone and forgotten*

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!