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Thread: Noisy lifters

  1. #1
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    Noisy lifters

    Hi All,

    I've been getting frustrated with the shiny ****box so avoiding final assembly. The interior plastics broke when i picked them up to refit (again), I'd left the cross member out to initially test everything was leak free and nothing major had to come back out....... Who would have thought the exhaust and Y pipe had to come back off to refit that damn thing. There seemed to be a lot more lash in the driveline than I remember. It is hard to lift off into a round-a-bout for example, then re-apply power gently enough not to generate a driveline thump. I figured I'd need to swap the rear axle assembly out. But what really annoyed me more than anything is the motor developed a noisy lifter not long within a few days of re-assembly. such a strong distinctive lifter noise if I had the money to spare, I would have ordered in a new camshaft and lifter set (to fit oneday when I get the time ).

    Anyway, last night I climbed under and check the lash in the rear driveline by throwing the transfer case in nutral and trying to turn the tailshaft and seeing how much slop we had in the rear axle. On comparing to the other Rangie it is identical...... Hmm.. There is far more lash in the front diff even though the 'CVs and drive splines looked and felt very tight when I had it apart........ I guess I live with the lash (this is where automatics would be far better, they hide all the driveline lash).

    Anyway, I removed the "Y" pipe last night ( Its fun to do this stuff multiple times, just for the fun of it) and refitted the crossmember. Imagine my surprise today to find I have a lovely silent motor with no lifter tap...... I'll be buggered, there was no sign of leakage on the flange gaskets or anything like that either (I did check). I would have put money on that motor have a stuck/worn out lifter. Its such a relief to hear no tapping from under the bonnet now ( Without electric radiator fans, you miss out on all this fun, as that big engine driven fan is so noisy you don't get to hear tapping valves or exhaust leaks).

    So next jobs are now fitting up the firestone bags to the rear and getting an alignment done before I completely destroy the front tires.............. Then making up a new console and radio surround .... and maybe even finally colour sanding the paint and giving it a good buff (we don't want to go overboard here though, otherwise I'll get ****ed off next time it rubs its sides down the scenery).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  2. #2
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    BE A MAN!
    do the alignment the correct way by getting under with a tape measure and giving it 1-2MM toe out.
    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    BE A MAN!
    do the alignment the correct way by getting under with a tape measure and giving it 1-2MM toe out.
    Regards Philip A
    Hah! He thinks he is joking. Little does he know I have set most of my cars in the past with an extendable tent pole ...... I actually do have a wheel alignment machine. It started playing up and not working properly about 3 weeks after I purchased it ( I think it'll just need new capacitors through it).

    However No I think about it. I did change the steering box, the drop arm and the rod over to the front passenger wheel ..................................... But that will not change the alignment. It will be the rod joining both front wheels at the back that adjusts the alignment. So in theory is should still be fine. (ie: it drove fine and didn't scrub tires before, so it still should drive fine and not scrub tires ....).

    seeya,
    Shane L
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  4. #4
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    Hi Shane, could the backlash be in the transfer box? This is the problem I have...
    Cheers, Phil.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeman View Post
    Hi Shane, could the backlash be in the transfer box? This is the problem I have...
    Cheers, Phil.
    Oh yeah, there is way more lash in the LT230 than the two borg warners I've had. The borg warner is way nicer in normal driving. A fraction of the lash and far quieter. Its a shame they are at the end of the life by the time they come into my hands I like the almost indestructible nature of the LT230. So I will live with the lash in the driveline I think the slop in the borg warners chain may disguise/dampen the rest of the driveline lash.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    I think the slop in the borg warners chain may disguise/dampen the rest of the driveline lash.
    Usually the slop in a BW is not the chain but the splines on the rear output shaft
    .
    I had to hammer mine out at 220Km as the splines had jammed on the female splines in the centre diff.

    I bought another one for $20 on the basis it had a stretched chain and it was the same.
    The P38 however commonly stretched chains.
    Go figure .
    If the splines wear out you have no go so its worthwhile to check at 200plus K. The rear bearing if you replace it is a very rare type with C3? tolerance. I bought one on ebay from Germany.
    Regards Philip A




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