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I had a 2 door that was built from about 5 different RRC's that had a 4.4 in it that was not stock, think race motor. I only bought it for the maxi's F&R, since sold.
Has electronic ignition, iridium plugs, extractors, 3" mandrel exhaust. Was awesome just starting it up.
Pretty sure bearing shells are still available.
DL
Thanks all,
You've definitely got me considering rebuilding the 4.4 now. I also happen to have a short block 4.4 which appears by the numbers to be out of a Leyland Terrier truck. From what I've been told these had a stronger forged crank but lower compression pistons, can anyone confirm this? If the terrier motor has a stronger crank I can use that along with the block as a basis for a new motor. Another question is whether I can use 3.5 pistons in a 4.4? I know the bore is the same but does anyone know if the gudgeon height and diameter is compatible with the 4.4 conrods? If so it would allow me to possibly run the SD1 9.75:1 pistons along with the rover heads which should give me a bit more go while still having no issue on 91 octane fuel.
Cheers for the discussion so far
Steve
I’d be looking for Leyland P76 owners and ask them they be most up to date with what to do
Nothing wrong with a 3 litre Camry.... when you pull up at the bowser.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_white_keys
I did a lot of research on camshafts many years ago. Many people were recommending the 3.9L EFI cam, however I chose the ETC6850L camshaft as recommended by TR Spares in Sydney. I have been very happy with this camshaft (i have used it since on two motors). Smooth idle and flat torque curve makes the vehicle easy to drive. Even when fully loaded it still goes pretty well. It is certainly much better than the stage 2 heatseeker cam that i used previously (which was quicker, but it developed torque too high in the rev range, so would die in the arse on hills). From memory i bought this camshaft online somewhere for dirt cheap. I was worried about the quality of it, but the cam and lifters looked in top condition when i last checked them at 150,000 km, and they are not making any noise. I was told to only ever use original Land Rover lifters however.
The Dynotec DM215D is meant to be a good camshaft too. This has been discussed on teh forum in the past.
Edward
The 92 Classic I purchased about 3 years ago was from guy who belonged to the P76 club here in Perth.
Funnily enough we got to talking and he used to rebuild the engines for club members.
That's why I wasn't too worried purchasing the above when its engine 3.9 V8i seemed too clean and still runs a treat ...currently has 494072 kms on the clock.
He had at the time from memory around ... 40 x 4.4 V8's in his shed .... I may be able to contact him via the P76 Club in Perth.
Baggy
Yeah the general advice would be to not bother rebuilding a 3.5. I once had all of the parts needed to rebuild a 3.5 I had which had been bored out to 3.9, high comp pistons and rings, ported heads, cam, Coyles timing chain, ARP studs for mains and big ends, oil pump rebuild kit, Edelbrock 1404 Carb, Edelbrock Performer manifold, all the gaskets, bearings, seals and bolts and everything else... all of that good stuff. Was roughly $3000 worth of parts, then a quote for $6000 to machine it all with top hat/flanged liners so it could cop some abuse, so I ended up selling most of the parts - just keeping the cam, timing chain and valves/valve springs/rocker shafts/preload shim kit etc to do a top end rebuild on my 3.9.
I regret that I could have bought a LS and got close to the adapter kit for it, for what those parts cost me to have a 210HP at best motor which would still have been **** on fuel and leaked oil one way or the other.
Rebuild the 4.4 or look for a good complete 3.9 etc out of a D1. If it's a weekender and you are totally against the logic of a LS, those would be your best bets in my opinion.
Dumb question. The utes that get wrapped around a tree seemingly daily with LS ( alloy blocked versions ) and 6spd manual gearbox. Has anyone managed to bolt the engine/gbox combo upto the LT230 ? It seems like such a simple and elegant way to test the tensile strength of the rest of the driveline [bigrolf]Quote:
Originally Posted by Chivalry
No such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers.
I think the guys over in the US have done the adapter, but not for a tremec. I believe it's either the 4L60/80e autos.
they are different lengths iirc.
an LS swap is an 'obvious' candidate due to availability and used wrecker motor prices, but in reality the cost of an LS isn't as cheap as many would have you believe, once you 'fix' all the LS known issues.
so an LS swap would still equate to roughly the same cost as a 3.5/3.9/4.4 overhaul / replacement.
Then you have the electronics, the transmission control and the adapter to think about, then the engineers certificate / mod plate etc.
Sometimes, it is best to find a reputable workshop who has performed this exact conversion and has good references and you can speak to the owner of the conversion / look at the fab work.
Having done more than a few conversions in the past, I can dispel any myth about the 'cost' which is to say you are not ever going to see a return on your investment if you go the 'mod' path.
So in that instance, I would recommend a 4bd1t, LRA chassis rail plates, a good built LR manual and LT230TC with an atb centre or at the very least hardened crosspin.
Yep, diesel, noisy, slow etc etc ad infinitum. But it is compatible with the chassis, TC, diffs and won't hurt from an engineering certification standpoint, because it is a 'known'.
No, it's not a v8, but it has more Nm and arguably a lot better fuel consumption. Therein lies the only avenue by which you could hope to recover any capital outlay.
It's pretty darn hard to make a decision when the v8 sound is usually the reason for buying in the first instance.
but when the difference in fuel consumption between a 3.9 v8 and a 3.9 diesel inline 4 is in the order of 10.0L/100km there is a definite logic.
and just so you know, anything goes wrong with a diesel, your overhaul / rebuild expenses will make you go pale.
The bosch IP for one of my OM606's was rebuilt in Perth before I bought the motor, it was still in it's box, with a receipt for $2800.
I only ever recommend people undertake a conversion after they have thoroughly researched the relative merits and remain satisfied it is feasible / financially viable
Do a search on here - someone has put a LS into a Disco 2.