A couple things worth noting...
1. yes a "new" converter is worth purchasing. (new or reman)
2. If you are rebuilding a transmission, the existing converter should be flushed. Some converters come with drain plugs, many do not.
The 'danger' is that installing a used converter into an overhauled transmission can cause issues.
Torque converters have a habit of accumulating the clutch dust and fine metal particle debris in the crevices of the rotor and stator vanes, and when a converter is not "used" for a long time, and if stored on the front of the transmission, gravity will eventually take over and some of the "sludge" will make it's way to the lowest point, filling the vanes, and making it ready for the first fluid fill in your freshly overhauled transmission...... ready to go right through the pump and into the valvebody to marr checkvalve passages and block conductor plate holes.
If you have a converter already, send it off to be split and remanufactured. this will net you new stator bearings and thrust washers, the shaft can be linished and polished, and obviously the converter can have it's vanes brazed in place, making it stronger as well.
You can also alter the stall speed of the converter, as you see fit.
Having an entirely "new" converter built from scratch can cost a couple thousand dollars and then some, depending.
If you want a user-serviceable torque converter, then hughes torque converters in the states is where I'd be looking. They can custom fab flexplate mounts as well.
the A727 converter is common as muck in the states, and is dirt cheap.
Here is an example, online retailing for USD$ 322
Street Master Torque Converter1967 and Newer Mopar A727 (TF8)
Non-Lockup
2500 Stall
11" Diameter
10" Bolt Pattern
All w/24 Spline Input
Like I said.... dirt cheap.
The "sensible" idea would to be a little more generous with the cash, and investigate your options from the big US auto trans companies
TCI, Hughes, ACCPerformance et al...
here are some links to start looking.
https://bosshogtorqueconverters.com/?page_id=206
http://www.hughesperformance.com/xtm-xfm/
https://www.tciauto.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=727+torque+converter
Investigate your options overseas - as much as I hate to say it.... Locally, I have made several enquiries with Australian companies about rebuilding and modifying or fabricating converters, and they are all right up in the $2.5K+ price bracket.
You have to draw the line somewhere, and as much as I favour supporting Australian manufacturing and jobs, no way in hell would I spend 10X + the amount on the same product I can buy off the shelf in the usa - or for that matter have fabricated to specs in the USA and shipped.
This is one area of industry where I'm more than acutely aware of price gouging and companies getting away with it.
Especially when it comes to supply of GENUINE parts for european transmissions (not just ZF either btw...). The US stuff is dirt cheap and plentiful - and our "free" trade agreement *cough* makes it easy for an individual to prevent themselves from being ripped off by local "perfomance" parts suppliers.
Because the A727 is such a prevalent mopar auto and so many high performance and super-reliable units can be purchased, you may even find yourself better off purchasing a complete rebuilt unit from the states, and redrilling a holden 308 flexplate, or even having a new one fabricated from billet steel by a machine shop.
The ring gear is cheap and these days it makes little sense to not futreproof / bombproof the single most important component in your drivetrain.
But back to the converter...
If it doesn't have a drain hole, then it has to be split in a lathe to be serviced. It will be full of crap, and it will need new bearings and possibly a new stator if there is wear.
It's also a great time to have the stall speed modified so that you get the most performance and economy out of your vehicle - because this is the single biggest influencer on power transfer and fuel consumption.
a holden 308 is not a "big" engine by any stretch, compared to the US vehicles that 727's were fitted to, but you do have 245, 265, 318 & 360 cubic inch engines which all used this transmission locally.
A bit of investigation with the P76 owners might also net you a source of "good" parts, as will the valiant owners clubs.
for my money though, a new unit from the USA and redrilling or fabricating a flexplate locally would be far more cost effective and more importantly, brand new.
Stall speed is entirely your call and is directly dependent on how you are going to use the vehicle.... offroad? towing? on-road/highway ? does the engine have any modifications? camshaft? where is the power in the engine? low down? midrange? top end? carb or efi? etc etc etc.
tyre diameter and final drive ratio is important to understand as well.
Look for a similar stall speed converter from an old jeep cherokee or CJ and try and match the engine with the final drive (similar) and tyre size for the standard vehicle. You'll likely be pleasantly surprised that the 6cyl and smallblock v8 cherokees and CJ's have lots of converter options, depending how they are used.
Nothing here that can't be solved with a little legwork and research.
and a 10" mount is not uncommon. just check the flexplate for your converter mounting PCD.
Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
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