Tubeless tyres and non-safety rims?

split rims are the obvious exception for running tubeless... split rims are by their nature quite dangerous, and should be inflated in a safety cage. Just have a look at why trucks have all moved to alloy rims from the old split rims.

Sure, it's a PITA and split rims are a doddle to change tyres on. Correctly seated, split rims present very little danger, but the process of inflating is one of observing caution and using common sense (except most of modern society is devoid of common sense).

pretty common to see landcruisers and patrols out west using split steelies. because replacing a busted tyre is a 10 minute job. carrying an additional spare tyre is lighter than carrying a spare rim and tyre as well.

Often just patching or replacing the tube will enable you to get home. super easy with split steelies.

Interestingly, split rims were optional on Landrovers at least from 1948 to the end of Series 2a, and almost certainly later - yet I have never seen one fitted with them. Whereas Landcruisers and some other Jap four wheel drives had them as standard for decades.

The detachable side "split" rims used by these are one of a wide variety of rims used from the introduction of steel reinforced bead balloon tyres in about 1920 until the almost universal adoption of pressed steel wheels and well based rims from about 1930.

Before this, "clincher" type tyres were universally used, where the bead was not reinforced, and tucked under a rolled over side of the rim. The beads had an inward extension that met from each side, and air pressure in the tube prevented them from moving to allow the bead to escape the rolled over side of the rim (unless you let the tyre pressure get too low, or drove too fast, or the tyre got too hot, or ....).

Many, if not most, of these early wheels had detachable rims, especially in the USA, where wooden spoked wheels continued as standard for a couple of decades after they had been abandoned in the rest of the world. The detachable rim meant the spare was a lot lighter. (The earliest cars with pneumatic tyres had non-detachable rims, and non-detachable tyres - the chauffeur had to change the tyre with the wheel and rim in place.)

Trucks, with larger and stiffer tyres continued to use these "split" rims as standard, sometimes with detachable rims on a cast wheel, sometimes on a welded steel wheel, until fairly recently when the widespread availability of powered tyre changing equipment allowed well based wheels (often alloy) to become usual. Helped by the desire to go to tubeless (as pointed out in an earlier post these give less trouble), but also helped because the change to radials meant tyres with more flexible sidewalls that are easier to coax onto well based rims.

While on split rims I had an FJ55 with one piece steel rims , mounted the FJ55 Axles and rims on a 109 and no one ever questioned it , where as split rims stand out like dogs balls.

Iveco 4x4 when fitted with Michelin XZL 255/100R16 have tubeless split rims , have one here , hard to believe they hold air but they work well (but very heavy) , easy roadside tyre change though.

https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...s-p1010138.jpg

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Interestingly, split rims were optional on Landrovers at least from 1948 to the end of Series 2a, and almost certainly later - yet I have never seen one fitted with them. Whereas Landcruisers and some other Jap four wheel drives had them as standard for decades.....

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The 110 RFSV "Perentie" in standard form comes with 4 tyres + 3 spares - all on LR "split" rims - so this feature was continued up to the present time for the army.

The manual includes the instruction to inflate them under the engine bay of the motor car for operator protection.

I run standard D1 wheels on mine for convenience and my "Perentie" split rims with new tyres have been set aside for whoever purchases the vehicle from me

I agree Tubeless is the way to go.
Tubes seem to be prone to punctures from abrasion etc.
Much easier to fix a puncture from a nail or a piece of wire etc on a tubeless tire.
I have plugged plenty with a "self tapper" to get me home, then ended up driving
around for months before removing the tire to patch the hole.
In recent years i have found Tek Screws to be a common source of punctures.
I suspect picked up on roundabouts after they fall off Tradies vehicles.
My wife has had three punctures in about four years, all in the rear left wheel.

Cheers, Mick.

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Originally Posted by 87County

The 110 RFSV "Perentie" in standard form comes with 4 tyres + 3 spares - all on LR "split" rims - so this feature was continued up to the present time for the army.

The manual includes the instruction to inflate them under the engine bay of the motor car for operator protection.

I run standard D1 wheels on mine for convenience and my "Perentie" split rims with new tyres have been set aside for whoever purchases the vehicle from me

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Yep I recommend customers put Disco 1 steel wheels, Defender steel wheels or Perentie standard steel wheels as you can then run the tubeless tyres, which generally are too tight a fit to go on split rims without damaging the tyre (if thinking tubeless tyres with tubes (another subject well covered on AULRO).

There really is no advantage in running old tubed tyres.
On average when I get a Perentie in to me, the tyres are at least 6 years old (I've seen them 10 - 14 years old) thats a danger to yourself and other road users.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

Trucks, with larger and stiffer tyres continued to use these "split" rims as standard, sometimes with detachable rims on a cast wheel, sometimes on a welded steel wheel, until fairly recently when the widespread availability of powered tyre changing equipment allowed well based wheels (often alloy) to become usual. Helped by the desire to go to tubeless (as pointed out in an earlier post these give less trouble), but also helped because the change to radials meant tyres with more flexible sidewalls that are easier to coax onto well based rims.

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The first trucks I saw with tubeless tyres were on sale here late 1960's. Leyland had a couple of models with Michelin 11.00 x 22.5 tubeless on Michelin lightweight rims as standard equipment. Most prominent was the Crusader. Industry acceptance was almost zero. Only the few more technically aware and progressive fleets adopted them. I remember a Western operator being shown around a Crusader who had never before seen a tubeless truck tyre let alone operated trucks on them pointedly saying " tubeless tyres, they'd be no good". Most were changed to split rims and 10.00 x 20 tyres to make a sale. When I started at Leyland Truck & Bus in 1973 there was a stack of these wheels and tyres in the shed at Rocklea. Cavanagh Bros. eventually bought them at a bargain price.

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Originally Posted by mick88

........
In recent years i have found Tek Screws to be a common source of punctures.
....
Cheers, Mick.

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In my childhood, most flats were from horseshoe nails - with most roads unsealed, a fresh lot of these were brought to the surface every time a road was graded.

However, I remember one occasion, where a four inch nail was found inside the tyre - unworn, and shiny, like the jar of nails in the cupboard on the verandah where the tyre was fitted after the latest horseshoe nail repair. I'm afraid a pair of small boys got blamed for that!

Thanks for all this relevant info
when i got tyres fitted to Jade 66/88 with 109 rims my tire guy stated the roaded Toyota tires he had sourced for me at $150 each needed tubes due to my rims.....+$35x5 ouch...... bargain was disappearing over the horizon when you also factor in fitting[bigsad]
once bitten twice shy ........good thread

Cheers Paul

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Originally Posted by Woolly

I would be interested in wiser people than me’s thoughts on the advisability and legality of fitting tubeless tyres to the non safety original wheels on my ‘80 RRC.

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If the rims are alloy, are the holes for the valve stems machined to allow for tubeless stems?