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Thread: Difflock actuator

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    Difflock actuator

    I need to replace the vacuum difflock actuator in my 1980 RRC. TRS can supply a S/H one.
    I am hoping someone can tell me if it is necessary to lower the gearbox to get the old one out and the new one in. It appears it may hit the chassis rail if the selector fork has to come out in a straight line.
    Thanks,
    Woolly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woolly View Post
    I need to replace the vacuum difflock actuator in my 1980 RRC. TRS can supply a S/H one.
    I am hoping someone can tell me if it is necessary to lower the gearbox to get the old one out and the new one in. It appears it may hit the chassis rail if the selector fork has to come out in a straight line.
    Thanks,
    Woolly.
    G'day Woolly, I have never done one on a RRC but plenty on 110's with similar chassis/mounts and you can do them in the vehicle, with much difficulty I might add. getting room for your fingers is the biggest problem.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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    Difflock actuator

    Finally got around to attacking this, I’ve been distracted by electrical issues. Yes, It is possible to replace just the diaphragm part which once the two bolts holding it are undone will unscrew from the rod that moves the selector arm. However, getting to the top bolt involves some tricky keyhole surgery through the access plate over the warning light switch, but it can be done with a moderate amount of swearing.
    Woolly.

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    Bearman's Avatar
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    Not quite that simple Wooly, the actuator still won't come off even with those 2 bolts undone as the shaft has a roll pin inside that holds the fork onto the shaft. You have to pull off the housing cover that the actuator is bolted to and then dismantle it. Take the warning light switch out and rotate the actuator shaft until the roll pin lines up with the hole and then drive it out with a pin punch and when you reassemble it don't forget to put a new round gasket between the actuator and the housing otherwise you will get a vacuum leak there and you will find it will engage but not disengage.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearman View Post
    Not quite that simple Wooly, the actuator still won't come off even with those 2 bolts undone as the shaft has a roll pin inside that holds the fork onto the shaft. You have to pull off the housing cover that the actuator is bolted to and then dismantle it. Take the warning light switch out and rotate the actuator shaft until the roll pin lines up with the hole and then drive it out with a pin punch and when you reassemble it don't forget to put a new round gasket between the actuator and the housing otherwise you will get a vacuum leak there and you will find it will engage but not disengage.
    I've done a couple, but a long time ago. Had to look at an old Haynes to remember how it went.

    The whole housing has to be removed, from memory 3 bolts. One I did had big philips heads and that was a real PITA. Went back on with bolts. Was possible in situ using a 1/4" drive socket set with every known flex type attachment and different length extensions.

    This was on an RRC with a 350, and missing the gearbox part of an LT95, so I don't know if it is possible on a stock LT95.

    Haynes call this a 'seats out, floor out' job.

    Be aware that there is an o ring on the actuator shaft that should be replaced, so that there is no chance of the diaphragm part filling with oil, as well as everything Brian has said.

    DL

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