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Thread: 1994 RRC Soft Dash

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    1994 RRC Soft Dash

    Thought I'd post a few photos of the soft dash I acquired late last year. I bought this one as an off road and camping toy and intend to tidy it up slowly, while I continue working on my 2.8 CRD RRC. Work has slowed on that project as I am unable to get out to the farm due to Covid19 social distancing measures. See link to project file here:
    RRC 2.8L CRD Project

    Anyhow, this car has had many owners over the last 10 or so years, so the list of offroad goodies are quite long.
    This is a 1994 Vogue Soft Dash model with a standard 3.9L V8 with the 4HP22 ZF auto and the original transfer case has been replaced with the LT230. It has about 280k kms on the clock, but I believe the engine may have been changed out at some point. The suspension is set up very well with Superior Engineering front radius arms, kings spings and Armada Remote Reservoir shocks. Drive train has been upgraded with heavy duty axles and CV's and maxi-drive diff locks front and rear. and currently running 33" Toyo Open Country mud terrain tyres. It also has a Traxide dual battery system and on board air compressor, front and rear high clearance bars and Runva winch.








    Having recently gone through a few owners, there are a few things that needs fixing on the car just to make it driveable again and easier to live with, so here are some things I have completed already.


    The first thing I noticed when I first got the vehicle, was that the engine had a miss under load and higher RPM. I replaced the ignition module with a Bosch BIM024 unit, which made for easier starting but the miss was still there and fuel consumption was horrendous. I then checked the vacuum advance unit on the distributor, which had a hole in the diaphragm so replaced it with a new unit. This made a significant improvement to top end power and fuel economy has improved somewhat.

    Bosch BIM024 Module upgrade


    New vaccuum advance and replaced the engine cowling cover which was missing



    I also found that the coolant temperature sensor plugs were broken and held on with electrical tape, so I replaced the plugs with new ones. I then cleaned every electrical connection associated with the EFI system and ensured that the earths were all secure.

    The next issue to take on was damaged center portion of the dash, which was in several pieces. It seems that at one point the frame that normally holds the radio was removed and the radio was left to sit on the flimsy plastic facia frame. This quickly destroyed the rest of the facia well and truly beyond repair. I had a look around online for a replacement soft dash facia, however they are impossible to find and any new replacement ones (such as the one made by Congleton Service in the US) are ridiculously expensive. So I decided to modify a Disco one to suit, and it turned out pretty well. I had to make up a new frame for the radio to sit in which has been braced into the firewall internally. Now I can at least drive the car without the radio and other plastic pits constantly falling everywhere.




    Next job was to tackle the issue with the wipers. One of the spindles was completely loose and the other was seized, resulting in the wipers being terribly ineffective. So I removed the scuttle panel to find that the steel tubes inside the spindle rubbers had completely corroded away and one spindle was flogged out of its holder. I managed to get a replacement bracket from a earlier model, reused my spindles to allow for the original wipes to be used. The early four hole plate had to be removed and the later five hold plate fitted.

    Damaged spindles


    While I was there, I also cleaned out the seam that joins to the firewall, an area that is very susceptible to corrosion especially when the sealant fails as was the case here. I removed the old sealant with a chisel and then cleaned out the seam with a wire brush and treated the rust with rust converter. After some more cleaning, I resealed the seam using seam sealer and repainted the whole thing.

    Resealed seem:




    I now have properly functioning wipers and hope to have slowed down the rust in this area at least.



    Few other notable jobs was to replace the hose to the fuel filler and also repair the center console wood veneer. I also adjusted the rear doors so they open properly now and replaced the rear upper tailgate gas struts.

    Damaged veneer on center console


    New red gum veneer, just needs to be sealed.


    New filler hose as the old one was leaking:



    Next jobs to do:

    1. Rich running.

    The car is still running a little rich for my liking, I think I can get about 300km to a tank. Having sorted the ignition system, I will now look at the fuel system, I intend to drop out the fuel tank and clean out tank (or replace with a long range tank if I can find one) as the fuel filter was clogged with I first got it. I will then make my way forward, by testing the fuel pressure regulator and potentially replacing the injectors with some spare Bosch FOTE D5A ones I will get cleaned and refurbished.


    2. Fix exhaust
    The rear of the exhaust looks like it has been ripped off so now dumps at the rear diff. So my plan is to install a long range tank and then get the exhaust repaired so it is routed properly around the long range tank.


    3. Replace torque converter
    The torque converter is at times reluctant to fully lock up, so I have a refurbished torque converter to go in at some point. I have tested the auto with a pressure gauge and it seems ok for now.

    4. Set up rear cargo area
    There are brackets in the rear for a half cargo barrier, so I am thinking of reinstating that (if I can find one) and installing some draws and a fridge slide for my 60L Waeco. Intend to wire in an Anderson plug connection for the fridge and the car came with an inverter installed.


    5. Fix hood lining
    The hoodlining has sagged so intend to replace that at some point as well.

    6. Panel repair and respray
    This is later down the track, I intend to fix the numerous dents and scratches either by replacing the panel/door or by repairing them.

    7. Engine conversion
    At the moment I am a bit torn what to do with this as far as engine is concerned.

    a) Do I persist with the Rover V8 and maybe replace the 14CUX with a Haltec or Megasquirt system?
    b) Replace with 300tdi for better fuel economy and probably a little more power?
    c) Complete LS3+6L80 conversion?

    Either way, I will finish the other project first then look at doing the engine conversion.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Have you checked with the Stealer regarding the plastic fuel tank recall ? - My '95 was honoured several years afterwards... - Source of fuel leak was on TOP of tank, but looked like filler....
    With a good 300tdi, you won't really need the ha$$le of a bigger tank. An extra 20 litre jerry will take you a long way. Not unless you need to replace the inconsistent factory - fuel gauge set...

    I'm philosophically inclined for diesel engines in off-road use. IF you can get the td5 working in there, it's the engine the car SHOULD have had. Drives strongly and sips fuel... But interfacing a Disco engine & gearbox with the Air suspension computer is a Sisyphusian nightmare... just ask Gavinwibrow !

    There is a mod for the back window that shifts the strut mounts to an 'over-centre' geometry, so they (gas) hold the glass in the closed-down position.
    When mis-aligned, or worn, the rear catches let go at speed...and window flies open... sucking out the car.
    - Great for vacuuming on the go, but scares the what-sis out of you! Don't ask how I know.

    Another fantastic and worthwhile mod is a pair of gas struts for the bonnet... Whatever you need to do, that stay somehow works it's way around to be in your way... truly it has an evil mind of it's own !

    If your model has electric seats and pre-set mirror combo, then, if the "Memory" battery hasn't been replaced in the module, there's another job for you. - Computer and relay module under driver's seat. When the battery leaks... it can take out copper tracks and all sorts of seat/mirror functions go South...

    Well done on the new console veneer... now for the rest to make it match .
    Always wanted a 'wood' steering wheel, reckon it would both suit the car and look schmick.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by superquag View Post
    Have you checked with the Stealer regarding the plastic fuel tank recall ? - My '95 was honoured several years afterwards... - Source of fuel leak was on TOP of tank, but looked like filler....
    With a good 300tdi, you won't really need the ha$$le of a bigger tank. An extra 20 litre jerry will take you a long way. Not unless you need to replace the inconsistent factory - fuel gauge set...

    I'm philosophically inclined for diesel engines in off-road use. IF you can get the td5 working in there, it's the engine the car SHOULD have had. Drives strongly and sips fuel... But interfacing a Disco engine & gearbox with the Air suspension computer is a Sisyphusian nightmare... just ask Gavinwibrow !

    There is a mod for the back window that shifts the strut mounts to an 'over-centre' geometry, so they (gas) hold the glass in the closed-down position.
    When mis-aligned, or worn, the rear catches let go at speed...and window flies open... sucking out the car.
    - Great for vacuuming on the go, but scares the what-sis out of you! Don't ask how I know.

    Another fantastic and worthwhile mod is a pair of gas struts for the bonnet... Whatever you need to do, that stay somehow works it's way around to be in your way... truly it has an evil mind of it's own !

    If your model has electric seats and pre-set mirror combo, then, if the "Memory" battery hasn't been replaced in the module, there's another job for you. - Computer and relay module under driver's seat. When the battery leaks... it can take out copper tracks and all sorts of seat/mirror functions go South...

    Well done on the new console veneer... now for the rest to make it match .
    Always wanted a 'wood' steering wheel, reckon it would both suit the car and look schmick.


    Yes mine does have the dreaded seat ECU, which has died. Got a mate who might be able to fix the corroded tracks for me, failing that I will just hard wire it somehow.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Oh, and don't forget that exterior door-handle adjustment is a regular (ok, every 10 to 15 years..) item. Vital for driver's door.

    Not difficult, just fiddly - but will save you a $napped-off handle.

    Basically, the handle should pop the door BEFORE it gets near its limit of travel. What generally happens is... 'Opening' occurs later and later in travel, reaching the stage of having to pull/bend the handle to open the door... Finesse in controlling the force needed is difficult, and net result is .... a snapped-off exterior handle.

    You will need (el-cheapo is fine ) curled nose, Looooong handle pliers, Patience, the workshop manual, many scratches on your hands... maybe a mirror on a stick to see what needs doing... moving a small nut on a threaded rod, from memory. Check those plastic clips which hold those rods into the lever-holes.

    While the door card is off... install or replace speakers.. and consider fitting Puddle-lamps to the door underside. There are some cool ones around which project a Land Rover oval symbol onto the ground.

    Good news is... all the cuts and bruises will heal in time for next time. !

    At the rate OPEC are being forced to drop price, the cost of petrol for a LR v8 is becomeing..... affordable.
    But I still reckon a 2.5 or larger diesel is THE way to go. I've driven a LSE Classic with a D2 / td5 transplant, and it's perfect, power / economy / driveability-wise.

    *Use the least-used rear door to get an idea of acceptable handle travel....

    No, I'm not envious, but ask me again if I have a big LOTTO win !

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