RRC EAS Wiring Loom Question

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Originally Posted by Mercguy

That's only part of the solution.
but a lot less than $8000

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Well, Craddocks are closed anyway for the moment.

Talking to the owner of our local premier independent, he strongly recommends converting to coils. Says can do it for under $1K, and on my reluctant consideration, its probably the only way the old girl is going to get back on the road before I kark it.

Then I can worry about the probably bent con-rod in the TD5 as an outcome of a broken valve spring and then head refurb (they claimed to have checked and no piston etc damage), and also address the crankcase pressure. I do have a sister short motor in the shed if it hasn't rusted away.

If I go to coils, should I stick with standard height, or should I go for a mild lift and the biggest tyres I can reasonably fit under there without body mods? As an LSE the turning circle is already woeful even with the steering stops already wound in.

I'm assuming the Boge? suspension aid is no longer available, and would look to multi-load rears?

I have Trutracs, would like to change over to a LT230 from the existing BW viscous coupling, and it would be a waste to just use the car for towing without using its abilities offroad (but nothing too extreme given the old girls age).

So, I'm thinking maybe a 35 -50 mm lift, but will need to check the WA regs for how much I need to reserve for bigger 16" tyres. I think 245 70R 16 are about the realistic biggest for standard suspension at 30.6 diameter, or I've been told You can fit 245 75 16 if you cut the bolt out from the rear guard at 12 o’clock and trim the flange that runs from 12 o’clock to the front behind the doors.

I don't know what tyre size is realistic/legal with say a 50 mm lift. I'm not all that keen on the skinny look with the215/85R16/30.4".

Decisions, decisions!!

COILS

*NO bladders to replace every so many years... They are a consumable item with finite safe life. so no leaks or maintainence.

NO unexpected...let down...by a hissy-fitting EAS - ECU[bigsad] It is essential to have that Magyck Resetting Thingy in the vehicle at all times.


*In-built / mounted air tank, if the pump is ok, can be used as 'on-board compressed air', for tyres OR, if you're serious about levelling for lights or looks, a pair of air-balls inside the rear COILS, as we had in the park-sweeper's 'tractor'. - '89 Classic.

Good Luck with finding a working (or re-furbishable ?) BOGE unit, - you'll need it's mounts for chassis and rear axle as well.

Personal opinion:-
At my vintage and financial position, "reliable and cheap to own" are king.

- Do you want to drive it or park it elsewhere - again. ??? [bigwhistle]

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Talking to the owner of our local premier independent, he strongly recommends converting to coils. Says can do it for under $1K, and on my reluctant consideration, its probably the only way the old girl is going to get back on the road before I kark it.

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To be fair, anyone would recommend you do something that potentially gives them money in return. If you were planning on kicking your bucket over in the next few months, I've got a full set of King (or Bearmachs) springs and Koni (or Pedders) shocks you can have in exchange for your EAS stuff, so that's putting you on coils for the price of fuel to come down to Bunbury and a pie and coffee along the way. I'll even install them for you myself, saving you even more money. At the most I'd recommend you get a proper EAS conversion kit for proper spring retention, if it comes to that. So that's still a lot cheaper than $1000.

Why would I offer this? Because if someone has to give up on EAS, I want spares haha! Why not do your best to sort the motor out first, while this cottonwoollingorpayafineifyoudare craziness is going on and if your bucket is still standing afterwards, come down and we can either sort out your EAS or I can add a few more spares to my pile. If nothing else, it'd make for a great photo to have 2 soft dash LSEs next to each other, with her royal highness somewhere around.

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Originally Posted by Chivalry

To be fair, anyone would recommend you do something that potentially gives them money in return. If you were planning on kicking your bucket over in the next few months, I've got a full set of King (or Bearmachs) springs and Koni (or Pedders) shocks you can have in exchange for your EAS stuff, so that's putting you on coils for the price of fuel to come down to Bunbury and a pie and coffee along the way. I'll even install them for you myself, saving you even more money. At the most I'd recommend you get a proper EAS conversion kit for proper spring retention, if it comes to that. So that's still a lot cheaper than $1000.

Why would I offer this? Because if someone has to give up on EAS, I want spares haha! Why not do your best to sort the motor out first, while this cottonwoollingorpayafineifyoudare craziness is going on and if your bucket is still standing afterwards, come down and we can either sort out your EAS or I can add a few more spares to my pile. If nothing else, it'd make for a great photo to have 2 soft dash LSEs next to each other, with her royal highness somewhere around.

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Sounds like a plan to me. Will do stage 1 and get the TD5 sorted first, then be in touch. I think the mitigation of borders will happen first (haven't read the latest WA news of today yet, but about to).

At this stage still coils orientated as much as it goes against the grain, and a long talk with mercguy yesterday has virtually decided me on this course of action.

Its a toy car isn't it? If you have all the plugs and connectors from the old harness there, just make a newie! It'll be half the fun :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

At this stage still coils orientated as much as it goes against the grain, and a long talk with mercguy yesterday has virtually decided me on this course of action.

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So, if I convert to coils, is there any point in retaining the compressor/tank to use for tyres re-inflation, or am I better off just removing all the EAS and using my double piston stand alone air compressor for the odd occasions after off road sojourns?

Ironically I had a locally designed mod put in a few years ago which gave me bypass air capacity to each airbag plus an under bonnet valve for tyre re-inflations after off roading.

I'm also going to have to move the refill point for my diesel sill tank, or forego it altogether. It is currently deep in the "opposite side to normal filler" rear wheel arch and requires lifting the suspension to get the fuel nozzle into the fuel neck. The sill tank has a TD5 fuel pump to transfer fuel up to the normal tank once there is enough room.

If it's serviceable and can provide clean dry air, then no reason to get rid of it.

If the output is pathetic and your dual compressor is more effective, then replacement it probably the way to go.

Whichever provides the most clean dry air in the least time with the least losses is the best choice.
[thumbsupbig]

Hey Gav....I have kings 50 mm springs and Koni adjustable shocks all round with firestone airbags inside the springs at the rear and I still have the load leveller attached, it’s not noisy and I have no idea if it still works, but many have commented on the ride how nice it is. I have the 2 gas tanks underneath and 2 sill tanks as well as the arb bull bar and custom made rear swing away bar. I know mine is not an LSE but it does ride nice and that setup was on my previous Rangie as well. I have just fitted kings 50 mm and billstein shocks to my disco2 with airbags in the rear springs and it rides nice. but the Rangie still rides better and I don’t know why they do..but they just do😁😁