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Thread: 93 Roman Bronze RRC - Front Passenger door wont open

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    93 Roman Bronze RRC - Front Passenger door wont open

    Hi All,

    New subscriber member , although have been a member for many years, my 5 year owned RRC has been a great vehicle , not too many issues. However the door recently has not been opening well. So I youtubed the fix and followed the instructions found and thought I had fixed accordingly. I reassembled the door as without the door cardback on it was closing and opening well. Card on - closed it and now won't open. How do I get access to the inside door mechanics now or how do I open it with out destroying the card ? Any ideas?

    thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Geelong
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    You probably tried already, but does it open from the inside? Also might be just an adjustment issue. From the outside, try pushing on the outside edge of the door while you pull the handle. If you get it open from there, you might need to adjust the threaded bar that links the handle lever to the opener mechanism. Both my doors were like that when i first picked it up.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    Illawarra NSW
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    Hi danske,
    There may be 2 ways for you to get in. The following refers to a 1986 HiLine which I had some time ago, and may or may not be relevant to your truck.
    1)
    My rear door was stuck solid on purchase and I managed to get at the internal door trim by removing the rear seat completely first.
    This just gave me enough room to get in and remove the handles and unclip the panels to get in to spray some WD40 into the mechanism and finally freed it up enough to open it.
    You can also access the mechanism now with the door still shut and operate some of the actuator levers.
    If you don't have enough access with the door shut, you may need to resort to the second method below.
    2)
    The front door became stuck like yours after adjusting the lock mechanism rods.
    My initial testing with the trims off and using a screwdriver as the striker was faultless.
    I then replaced the trims and closed the door, the window was down so I pulled the button up for unlock. Opened - OK. Pushed the button down to lock, couldn't open it using the outer latch, as it shouldn't - OK.
    Pulled the button up again to unlock the door.
    Door now jammed shut!!! Could not open it for love or money, no access to mechanism from inside obviously with the trims in place and the seat there.
    Lucky me, the window was down, I was able to get a wire down to access the levers.
    I had absolutely no luck pushing or pulling rods and levers even after studying the passenger door for clues, which by the way is different. Looks like door is stuck shut forever. I can't really get the seat out as for the rear door - preparing now to ring the wrecker.

    Lateral thinking needed. I have to open the door somehow to get in to diagnose and fix it.
    The I noticed something. Eureka!
    The latching striker bolt is visible in the gap between the front and rear door.
    I can't honestly remember if the rear striker is as accessible.

    My demolition saw with a metal cutting blade reached the pin nicely, not coming off on the reverse stroke and not hitting the bodywork on the forward stroke.
    One minute later, the door was open. Replacement striker bolts from the local wrecker were $1 each.
    Turns out that I had over adjusted the rod on the outer latch slightly and for whatever mysterious reason, if the door was in the locked position and I then tried the outer latch, it would enter the forever locked state. Backing off the door latch rod fixed the problem.
    Go figure?
    By the way, to get the cut striker bolt and washers off the door, you will need to grind the remnant bit off the bolt, flush to the washers first as there is a step in the bolt which has been tightened up against the washers.
    The photos show the trick.

    20200222_172055.jpg20200222_171840.jpg20200222_171743.jpg

    Like I said, not sure if the above is valid for the rear door or for your model, but here's hoping.
    If not, it may help someone else in a similar predicament.
    Cheers

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2020
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    This is a test reply as my full blown response seems to have gone into the ether.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Hi Dansky. Trying to post again!
    There are two possible ways to get in.
    I had a1986 Hiline some time ago with the same issues.
    1)
    My rear door was locked up solid and I gained access to the mechanism by removing the rear seats, pushing the front seat fully forward and then removing the inner door trim.
    2)
    My front door became stuck like yours after adjusting the lock mechanism rods.
    My initial testing with the trims off and using a screwdriver as the striker was faultless.
    I then replaced the trims and closed the door, the window was down so I tried the functions again.
    I pulled the button up for unlock. Door opened - OK.
    I Pushed the button down to lock, The outer latch was locked out as it should be - OK.
    I pulled the button up again to unlock the door.
    Door was now jammed shut!!!
    I could not open the door from inside or outside for love or money.
    I had no access to mechanism from inside obviously with the trims in place and the seat there.
    Lucky me, the window was left open so I was able to get a wire down to hook and access the levers.
    But I had absolutely no luck pushing or pulling rods and levers even after studying the passenger door for clues, which by the way is different.
    I can't really remove the seat to get at the trim so it looks like door is stuck shut forever - preparing now to ring the wrecker.

    Lateral thinking needed. I have to open the door somehow to get in to diagnose and fix it.
    The I notice something. Eureka!
    The latching striker bolt is clearly visible in the gap between the front and rear door and looks invitingly within reach.
    My demolition saw with a metal cutting blade reaches the pin nicely, not coming off on the reverse stroke and not hitting the bodywork on the forward stroke.
    One minute later, the door is open. How easy was that
    Replacement striker bolts from the local wrecker were $1 each.

    it turns out that I had over adjusted the rod on the outer latch and for whatever mysterious reason, if the door was in the locked position and I then tried the outer latch, it would enter the forever locked state. Backing off the door latch rod ended the problem.
    Go figure?
    By the way, to get the cut striker bolt and washers off the door, you will need to grind the remnant bit off the bolt, flush to the washers first as there is a step in the bolt which has been tightened up against the washers.
    The pic's show the process;

    20200222_171743.jpg20200222_171840.jpg20200222_172055.jpg

    As I said, this may not work for your model but if not, someone else may get some help from it.
    Cheers.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Two Rocks WA
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    Hi you will probably find the door lock button on the inside is not all the way up. The button jams on the doorcard, try and replace both plastic pieces as they warp over time, I have had 3 doors on my 89 do exactly this and replacing those bits fixed them, the door lock surrounds are the same as the defenders but in black.
    Brad..who knows nothing
    Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
    LROCWA Ex member 23 years
    1971 Series 2A
    2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
    2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
    1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
    1989 Vogue auto
    2011 TDV8 Vogue
    What would life be without a Rangie?



  7. #7
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    Huge lesson here, unfortunate thanks to the problems of others.
    If you mess with the door mechanisms to fix things, don't replace the inner door trim until you are sure everything is tip top and operational.

    Thank you for this, I will remember always.

    S

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all your responses.

    Hmm which road to take here, key points for me out of your responses were ;
    1. get the door card off whilst door shut - might have to take front passenger seat off as I have no space to pull card.
    2. I think I over tightened the rod , even though I tested with door card off and it opened and closed fine. hmmmm ??
    3. last resort , reciprocating saw ! drastic but effective it seems.

    I might also try cutting a hole in the door card behind the carpet panel half way down so I can access the rod again.

    thanks all , very helpful , ill report back once resolved.

  9. #9
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    Thumbs up

    I think you hit the nail on the head danske.
    It was the over tightening of the rod that caused my issues.
    P.S. The saw was in fact not drastic, but quick and effective, as long as you have a spare pin available.
    Good luck mate

  10. #10
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    Resolved !

    Quote Originally Posted by Keijo View Post
    I think you hit the nail on the head danske.
    It was the over tightening of the rod that caused my issues.
    P.S. The saw was in fact not drastic, but quick and effective, as long as you have a spare pin available.
    Good luck mate
    Thanks again for this suggestion and pics. It worked a treat , some mucking around to get the remaining head of the striker out and then readjust , but it came together. The outside handle has been readjusted and now works. Inside still not working , ran out of time to play with it. Ive left the door card off for now so i ca adjust the inside handle at some stage. Cheers

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