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Thread: Alternator

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Alternator

    Sharing a problem I have experienced recently.

    I'm slowly going though the old components from my RRC after it had been immobile for some years. A few months back I bought a new alternator, the one it had was rusty and noisy, I had fitted another just to get it going from the 89 parts RRC I have which I think is 65 amp and not new either, but OK. I like to run new parts where I can, and especially now I am running electric fans (which I like a lot) and will be charging a second battery. (FYI mine is a 91).

    The new alternator is/was a 100amp made by Bearmach. Not the most expensive but not the cheapest either. Fitted up, all good, for about 3 days. Stopped charging and when ignition was off the battery warning light was on - took it out and re fitted the spare alternator, all OK again. Took it to the local auto elec for a test (just to see before I claimed on warranty), one or two diodes had failed.

    Eventually (slow due to this lockdown stuff) got a replacement, same kind of unit. Fitted and working OK for a few weeks until Friday, wouldn't have been overly concerned but it failed (battery warning on with ign off) in East Melbourne, and I live in Geelong - an hour away with traffic, with reluctance to start and very poor idling - was a tense drive home. Was charging, maybe, but didn't feel right. Fitted the old alt again and all OK again - driving all weekend since with no issues.

    In the last few weeks up to the last alt fail I was chasing a low uneven idle, bogging on acceleration problem, even near stalling after starting. Made me clean the MAF sensor and check everything but with minor results. Since I've had the old spare alt back on, these problems have completely disappeared. I have always been sure to not run the wires to the coil directly on the alternator, always float and clamp them off so as to keep them away from direct contact - based on what I have read seems to be for the best, so no changes between both alternators.

    Anyway, these observations for the mental filing cabinet.

    I'd be interested if anyone else has had problems with these Bearmach alternators - kind of annoying in polite language. Not sure what my best move now is in replacing it with a reliable unit - don't want to be far far from home and this sh_t happens. Would be happy to hear of any reliable replacement alternatives, the one that is working now is OK but still very old.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Most people in Australia AFAIK used to fit Bosch 85amp alternators from an older Magna , Commodore or Falcon.
    The parts are readily available probably still.
    They have a removable brush and rectifier pack .
    You had to get one with ears and a bit of spacing here and a grind there would line up the pulley.
    The adjuster had to be lengthened.
    The other issue was that they used to make a bit of noise that could upset the electronic ignition and that was fixed by either rerouting the dizzy to coil wire or adding coax earthed at both ends.

    But I think you would still be able to get parts anywhere whereas I don't have a clue about Bearmach part availability , probably zero like bloody Magneto Marelli.
    Regards PhilipA
    This one but with ears rather than the tube.
    Alternator Bosch 12V 85Amp Universal

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Koojan WA (part time Perth)
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    I’ve been through a couple on my 110s
    And a couple of batteries
    I now run the Bosch as mentioned
    It’s second hand (maybe third hand) a remnant from the last bloke who owned my farm
    Send it back and get your money back before they send you one that cooks your battery
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

  4. #4
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    I put a old P38 120a alternator on my soft dash after the reasonably new replacement Denso failed, I havent had any issues with it. I replaced the Bosch fuel pump and sender unit with a brand new Bearmach and have been having stalling issues under load at low RPM. I had never used a Bearmach part and would trust one more than a Britpart, by default. But the pump will get replaced soon with a Bosch unit.

    With the alternator, I've gone up from the 100a one to the 120a one for no reason besides convenience as I could get the P38 120a quickly, I've got all of the electrical things working on a Classic that could be working plus a aftermarket stereo with amp and subwoofer and twin thermo fans and I have not had any voltage, charging or battery issues at all.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    The bearmach POS is the same as baxters / cooldrive / ashdown generic boxed PRC made ****e.

    aka LXA822 (pulley changed to V if reqd) from ashdown
    cooldrive 65-5019
    Baxters 63321358

    Screen Shot 2020-06-23 at 5.07.39 pm.jpg
    Screen Shot 2020-06-23 at 5.07.59 pm.jpg

    They are all the same copy of the marelli unit and none of them are any good, just like the marelli unit.

    PhilipA's comment is pretty much on the money.

    I went another route entirely. Only recommended if you know what you're doing. Requires fabrication.
    IMG_9448.jpg
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  6. #6
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    Thank you all for the replies, lots of good info.
    I'll be adding Bearmach to my do not buy list, next to Britpart.

    Both the Prestolite and Bosch options look good.

    In the meantime, until I get a refund which might be a while - I do have a 100a Marelli / Denso unit from my old TDi which had been reliable or at least trouble free for a good while (and yes I understand everyone hates them). But free for now and all I have to do is make an adjuster arm - should have done that in the first place, then ask a question here. Live and learn.

  7. #7
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    Your other 'overkill' option is a CS144 style GM delco alternator with an external rectumfryer.

    go over to the us site alternatorparts.com and have a look at his modded CS144 setups and his multiregrec box unit he calls a quicktifier.

    Basically you can do that to any alternator, it's just that I know the leece-neville unit has the binding posts for each phase on the rear housing. Makes life simple. They have an 8BLD brushless unit too. Couldn't get hold of one from baxters when I needed one though. so I got the long brush from ashdown.
    be aware that the frame is 6.5" in diameter and weighs a metric sh--tonne, you will need to gear the pulley correctly as well. it doesn't need a huge overdriven ratio - they spin slow to generate huge current, so not a massive taxing load on your engine... max power is 6krpm (alternator rpm) so no need to spin it any harder, just want to keep idle rpm of the alternator around 1000-1100 for best operation. so a 0.8 overdrive pulley works well. You can overdrive it by a small percentile and if you ever see the high side of 6krpm engine speed, it's not going to send the bearings into meltdown. overspeed is what kills small alternators. and they need that speed to generate current. it's a double edged sword.

    If you are not aware of how self-exciting alternator(generator) works, then it may be best to stick with a bolt-in replacement. If that's the case would go for the biggest N1 housing german-made bosch unit I could get my hands on. (probably a mercedes one, since spares are easy for me to access on my shelves). So perhaps look to a wrecking yard and a v8 BMW or Mercedes from the early 90's. with the extranal fan solid body - not the internal fan birdcage style POS units (even though german bosh is ok they usually have clutch pulleys on birdcage alternators) the external fan type may be sticker-rated at 90A but I can tell you that they have more diodes in the rectifier than any other alternator version (14) and that is what matters. They can pump 130-140A all day.

    Avoid any internal fan alternator. Stick with the external fan type, they are far more robust offroad, and you can cool air duct to the rear housing from the air cleaner if you want to ensure ultra-reliable service life in the bulldust.

    You can retrofit the new bosch diodes to the rectifier plate as well - those are rated at double the current of the old avalanche type. so not hard to get 150A out of one, the only issue is the size of the rear bearing, in my mind it's the archilles heel of all bosch units. too small.

    anyway, that's probably TMI.

    I like the leece units because spares come in kits, and you can use external regulator, also the electrics are well sealed from ingress. external phase posts huge bonus.

    I like the N1 bosch units because they are reliable compact and efficient. far better than the birdcage unit cost-cutting production techniques.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  8. #8
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    TDI alternator fitted

    Following up on my post below. Finally got around to fitting the OK (because it was working fine on the TDI before I retired the vehicle) 100A Marelli/Denso alternator. See attached pic.
    The adjuster eye is on the opposite side (as it is also on the 3.9 Disco with serpentine I think). Otherwise its roughly the same size, the serpentine pulley rattled off OK and replaced with the V belt one, with the spacer on the rear side - offset is perfect. Using the outers from the old tensioner, I made a new centre arm from 25x6mm flat bar, bent and slotted to match the original, longer and curved by notching in two spots to go over the alt, with a tab for the bolt. Its got the original V belt on it at the moment, but is just a bit short - the fatter body of the alt doesn't allow the belt to slip on nicely as it hits the mount, and the 12V B wire post is REALLY close to the rocker cover, a slightly longer belt will fix both these issues.

    Wanted to get this done as I was noticing the DRL's I have (on a 13V cut out relay) were going off when idling with the Ford fans on. Sure enough, 12.95 volts with everything on, 14.1 with the fans off. The alternator I had on was an old 65 amp with unknown history, other than it worked when I needed one, and will still be there as a spare. Might have been OK to leave but figured the fans will be on a bit more when the weather eventually warms up - this was my least cost (free) option with current minimal income with all my work sites shut down.

    IMG_3056.jpg

  9. #9
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    Nice fabrication.
    Regards PhilipA

  10. #10
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    Looks good Alternator

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