Thread: Alternators

So much for that idea .... the Vbelt alternator is quite different in the mounting point and pulley depth to the serpentine belt unit. Does anyone know of a good bosch universal alternator that will fit there ?

thanks
Shane.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

So much for that idea .... the Vbelt alternator is quite different in the mounting point and pulley depth to the serpentine belt unit. Does anyone know of a good bosch universal alternator that will fit there ?

thanks
Shane.

I’ll have a geez at what’s in my rig in the morning
Had to modify the tensioner bracket somehow but I’ve fitted a 85 amp Bosch of some description that was laying around the farm
[emoji481]

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Well the old ****box tried to fail on me last week.... I was down at halls gap with the block of flats swinging from the towbar ... and the battery light shining brightly. Through the grampians for 10 ... 15minutes at a time I'd let it run on petrol down the hills (saves it popping and farting on the over-run as the fueling gets switch off).... Only to find after a week of engine braking .... the battery didnt want to charge, rather it tried to "hold" the batteries current voltage. The battery in it is old ... its fully charged voltage is 11.6volts... but it still cranks strongly so I've never worried about it. I noticed after seeing the battery light flicker on ... over 3000rpm ... the battery light would go out ... the voltmeter would bounce back to 13.8volts. I figured I'd risk it and headed for home. by the time I got to arrarat .... it wouldn't charge at 13.8volts ... rather it was holding the 11.6 volts the battery rests at... weirdly the wipers ran fine until the revs dropped under 3000rpm through arrarat ... at which point the wipers slowed and the battery light would glow .... Absolutely bizzare. I also noticed when lifting off the throttle down hills .... as soon as the throttle closed .... even over 3000rpm .... as soon as the injection shut off (ie: on the over-run ...) the battery would stop charging. Once I'd put gas into it and flicked it to gas, it didn't do this ... very strange.

Anyway, I was out of LPG (and wouldn't pay 80cents/L at halls gap) so filled up at arrarat. As I was leaving town .... the battery light wouldn't go out ..... AAARRRRhhhh, I gave it 5 minutes, then started slowing down to do a "U" turn and go back to the big truck stop at arrarat. There is no point being stuck on the side of the road in the rain by pushing on with no battery charging. Just as I put the indicator on to slow and do a Uturn .... the charge light went out ... and I had 13.8volts again.... bloody crazy. So I kept going ... by Beaufort I was back to "battery voltage" .... 11.6 volts ... but the wipers were fast (not slow) and the charge light was off. So the alternator was charging @ 11.6volts. By the time I got to the outskirts of ballarat I was down to 10.9volts ... I jumped off the avenue of honour exit and started searching for a farmers drive to headup (and get off the road)...... 10.8volts ... driveway coming up ... I blipped throttle on the down change ..... and the suddenly we have 13.8volts again ... bugger me. I run at 13.8volts until we hit Hadden .... at which point the charge light came on. I entered my drive with 10.8volts showing on the volt meter .... bloody amazing or what.

Anyway, the parts car has a Vbelt alternator, but the pulley should swap over (at least I hope it does).



This is the nicely labelled alternator on the car .....





This is the replacement. How the hell do I identify which connection is which when nothing is labelled ???

seeya
Shane L.

the 2 insulated bolt terminals are your outputs

hook up the battery to either of the bolt terminals, make 3 female spade flyleads for the spade terminals touch each one to +ve via a 12v5w bulb while you watch the alternator output with the engine running.

next (if you need it) with the engine running use a frequency counting meter to touch the other spades and one of them will be the tach output, if you have a tach driven off the alternator connect it to that.
.


if you blow the dust out the PCB has probably got spade label on it.

if you carefully clean the raised posts in line with the 3 spades you'll likely see one will have a + or B+ the one closest to this is the excite, the one nearest the other (which should have a W) will be the tach.

Thanks Guys,

in the mean time I figured... Lets whip the back off the alternator and see if I can repair it .....

20200713_210818.jpg20200713_210800.jpg





You know .... I reckon we got our moneys worth out of that one .... the brushes are falling out ... and they look to have nearly dug there way all the way through the stator.

Universal Bosch it'll have to be. I've just been searching the forum and the replacement altnerators don't have great feedback with regards to quality (this one that has failed probably has 1/2million kms on it!).

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the 2 insulated bolt terminals are your outputs

hook up the battery to either of the bolt terminals, make 3 female spade flyleads for the spade terminals touch each one to +ve via a 12v5w bulb while you watch the alternator output with the engine running.

next (if you need it) with the engine running use a frequency counting meter to touch the other spades and one of them will be the tach output, if you have a tach driven off the alternator connect it to that.
.


if you blow the dust out the PCB has probably got spade label on it.

if you carefully clean the raised posts in line with the 3 spades you'll likely see one will have a + or B+ the one closest to this is the excite, the one nearest the other (which should have a W) will be the tach.

I've been looking at it closely. I think the stud iwth the spade terminal fitting is the exciter. The other stud is the feed to the battery. All of the regulator terminals are rusty. I'm betting the recessed spade terminal (not on the regulator) is the tacho output. (as this was fitted to a range rover, so the rusty connector would have been un-used).

Its a shame it doesn't fit!

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I've been looking at it closely. I think the stud iwth the spade terminal fitting is the exciter. The other stud is the feed to the battery. All of the regulator terminals are rusty. I'm betting the recessed spade terminal (not on the regulator) is the tacho output. (as this was fitted to a range rover, so the rusty connector would have been un-used).

Its a shame it doesn't fit!

you know...

the rotor of the alternators might just be the same....

new brush pack to the donor alternators rotor and you could be in business.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you know...

the rotor of the alternators might just be the same....

new brush pack to the donor alternators rotor and you could be in business.

Sadly they are quite different, the worn out one has an internal fan and much higher capacity. Certainly I'll measure up and see if they are similar though

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Well the old ****box tried to fail on me last week.... I was down at halls gap with the block of flats swinging from the towbar ... and the battery light shining brightly. Through the grampians for 10 ... 15minutes at a time I'd let it run on petrol down the hills (saves it popping and farting on the over-run as the fueling gets switch off).... Only to find after a week of engine braking .... the battery didnt want to charge, rather it tried to "hold" the batteries current voltage. The battery in it is old ... its fully charged voltage is 11.6volts... but it still cranks strongly so I've never worried about it. I noticed after seeing the battery light flicker on ... over 3000rpm ... the battery light would go out ... the voltmeter would bounce back to 13.8volts. I figured I'd risk it and headed for home. by the time I got to arrarat .... it wouldn't charge at 13.8volts ... rather it was holding the 11.6 volts the battery rests at... weirdly the wipers ran fine until the revs dropped under 3000rpm through arrarat ... at which point the wipers slowed and the battery light would glow .... Absolutely bizzare. I also noticed when lifting off the throttle down hills .... as soon as the throttle closed .... even over 3000rpm .... as soon as the injection shut off (ie: on the over-run ...) the battery would stop charging. Once I'd put gas into it and flicked it to gas, it didn't do this ... very strange.

Anyway, I was out of LPG (and wouldn't pay 80cents/L at halls gap) so filled up at arrarat. As I was leaving town .... the battery light wouldn't go out ..... AAARRRRhhhh, I gave it 5 minutes, then started slowing down to do a "U" turn and go back to the big truck stop at arrarat. There is no point being stuck on the side of the road in the rain by pushing on with no battery charging. Just as I put the indicator on to slow and do a Uturn .... the charge light went out ... and I had 13.8volts again.... bloody crazy. So I kept going ... by Beaufort I was back to "battery voltage" .... 11.6 volts ... but the wipers were fast (not slow) and the charge light was off. So the alternator was charging @ 11.6volts. By the time I got to the outskirts of ballarat I was down to 10.9volts ... I jumped off the avenue of honour exit and started searching for a farmers drive to headup (and get off the road)...... 10.8volts ... driveway coming up ... I blipped throttle on the down change ..... and the suddenly we have 13.8volts again ... bugger me. I run at 13.8volts until we hit Hadden .... at which point the charge light came on. I entered my drive with 10.8volts showing on the volt meter .... bloody amazing or what.

Anyway, the parts car has a Vbelt alternator, but the pulley should swap over (at least I hope it does).



This is the nicely labelled alternator on the car .....





This is the replacement. How the hell do I identify which connection is which when nothing is labelled ???

seeya
Shane L.

I had a look at mine this morning
Unfortunately it’s lost most of its numbers
From the numbers I can see I think it may be

Bosch 0120469878

N1 (R) 14V 34/90A

I had to red till one of the front bracket mounting holes and pack it out a bit but it saved me paying for a tow truck home from my farm
The old alternator (britpart replacement for the original) cooked a couple of batteries before I had worked out what was going on (13year old red top optima and brand new Bosch s4)
It was bypassing the regulator internally when hot
As soon as it cooled down had 13.8 volts coming out so it was hard to diagnose



I’m sure there are a few other posts on AULRO that answer the questions
If I can help with other photos or measurements just ask
Gav[emoji481][emoji481][emoji481]