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Thread: Coolant - What product/s to use?

  1. #1
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    Coolant - What product/s to use?

    Men,

    I'm due for a coolant change on the 87 3.5 and the 92 3.9 this month but the glycol based coolant I was buying from supercheap is no longer available. I am having trouble finding a glycol based coolant for the cars. What are you using?

    -------------------------------------
    77 RR bahama gold - sold
    75 RR bahama gold - sold
    87 RR Highline Manual - petrol & multipoint sequential LPG
    92 RR Vouge Auto
    96 Disco ES Auto - spares car

  2. #2
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    There is a nulon version of the Lemforder/vaico/febi/swag MB coolant I have used in all my alloy engines. Blue Premium Long Life Coolant 100%
    Interestingly MB/BMW recommend 2 year flush intervals... and I know why. I have experienced the flip side of previous owners cutting corners. It does not take long for slime, scale and problems when incorrect product use has occurred or new coolant has been mixed with old coolant from a different brand/spec. (p/nA0009890825) You do not buy this stuff from a dealer in the 5L container ($158+GST) instead you buy the same stuff in a febi/lemforder/vaico/swag 1.5L container for about 15 bucks.

    BLUE Antifreeze Coolant 1.5L SWAG for Mercedes SMART Mini | Run Auto Parts

    Mix ratio is 55-45% by volume water to coolant which is good for anti-corrosion as well as anti-freeze down to -30ºC at the factory ratio.
    It's important to ensure the cooling system is drained and properly flushed with citric acid 10% solution for 15-10min @ 2500rpm to remove all the crud and scale and slime from previous coolants (esp. green junk) before refilling with new fresh coolant.
    If you follow this process, the maintenance on the cooling system is absolutely minimal - and I mean minimal. as in almost zero. routine observation of the header tank level is all that is required.

    The reason I use it is because it is far more effective at maintaining lower stable operating temps and rapid cooling when under heavy load. It has better thermal transfer in my experience. Made a huge difference in the RRC when I first flushed and swapped it out in 2014. Probably the only reason I haven't popped a head gasket.

    Nulon do an equivalent, but I've always bought it as Lemforder/vaico/febi/swag through parts suppliers. Coolant has been a pain point with me due to an expensive issue incurred at the hands of a previous owner who used junk green stuff and it corroded and scaled the head so bad that it ended up popping the water jacket into the exhaust and cost an engine.

    Blue Premium Long Life Coolant 100% Concentrate (BLL) - Nulon Products Australia

    I don't take risks and work with proven effective solutions and factory procedures and have never had an issue when following the factory specified process.

    When an engine rebuild is over $20K in parts alone, the tiny cost of coolant changes and the flush process is piecemeal.

    Operating temps in RRC were about 8-12ºC lower with blue coolant after flush and replacing the old coolant. Since buying the new HD rad and the thermofan install, the temps sit on a controlled 90-95ºC in summer and in extreme hard use I have not been able to pop it up above 105ºC (measured by sensor installed above thermostat - at the hottest point in the cooling system) for more than a minute.

    So it's proven effective for me. Simple checking every 2 years by removing top hose at thermostat neck, to check for any scale - has not resulted in any scale since the flush in 2014.

    It's important to change the stuff - because the anti-corrosion component does have a finite life.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  3. #3
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    gycol .... its worked for the last 100years in alloy parts


    SCA Radiator Corrosion Inhibitor 500mL | Supercheap Auto

    I bet this is just glycol. Mix it in some tank water and your set So of the prices are just insane (maybe if my ****box didn't "disappear" about a cupful of coolant a month I'd put something more expensive in it ).

    Years ago, my grandfather said he used to run 100% glycol in his old Renaults. At the time it was cheap as chips by the drum through the local parts place.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  4. #4
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    techtalloy xtra gold.

    available pretty much everywhere.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    techtalloy xtra gold.

    available pretty much everywhere.
    Excellent .... sounds just like the one I linked:

    Tectaloy Xtra Cool Gold Green Coolant Concentrate 1L - Autobarn

    I'm betting its just gycol too! Castrol used to sell the stuff in small tins.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Excellent .... sounds just like the one I linked:

    Tectaloy Xtra Cool Gold Green Coolant Concentrate 1L - Autobarn

    I'm betting its just gycol too! Castrol used to sell the stuff in small tins.
    the stuff you linked isnt a straight ethyl glycol but it is directly compatible with the older ethyl glycol and the newer OATs (although I would not reccomend mixing at full concentration I would'nt be worried if you were changing one to the other and they got a little contaminated.)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    Ethylene glycol doesn't impart any corrosion protection, it's what gives the coolant it's anti-freeze/anti-boil characteristics. Most OAT coolants contain ethylene glycol unless they are 'corrosion protection only'.

    Older coolants used to use silicates, now Organic Acids (most manufacturers have dropped the word acid) for the corrosion protection.

    Very confusing and many manufacturers don't even list the corrosion protection type, I had to phone a number of suppliers some years back.

    Lots of acronyms.

    IAT Inorganic Additive Technology (silicates)
    OAT Organic Acid Technology
    HOAT Hybrid Organic Acid Technology
    CAT Conventional Additive Technology (silicates)
    I'm sure there are others....

    The things I've learnt in recent years are :-

    Colour only tells you what dye they used.
    Mix at the recommended concentration otherwise you compromise the corrosion protection.
    Don't mix different types.
    Change at the recommended interval.
    Early OAT was problematic in some older vehicles. Now solved with OAT Type 2
    Ethylene glycol is poisonous, some manufacturers use propylene glycol instead. Some Countries have banned ethylene glycol.

    Lots of discussions on the forum regarding coolants and many people, like me a few years back, think incorrectly that the corrosion protection comes from the ethylene glycol.



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
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