Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: Dynamat vs existing LR rubber underlay

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,742
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Dynamat vs existing LR rubber underlay

    Was just wondering about how effective the existing quite thick rubber underlay is particularly in the "can get hot" transmission tunnel and firewall areas in an RRC, and whether the expense of Dynamat type products is warranted - also once stuck on is that it? particularly if subsequent rust (re-) appears?
    Open for comments from the wise?
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,251
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Dynamat is heavy but v effective. Son used it in his Patrol and it made it much quieter..esp in the doors and firewall areas. Weight is a factor tho if used expensively.

  3. #3
    DiscoMick Guest
    Car Builders has similar products which I have used and they work well.

    Sound Deadening Material - Premium Car 4x4 Van Insulation Materials Online

  4. #4
    cjc_td5's Avatar
    cjc_td5 is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bunbury, WA
    Posts
    2,436
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Clarke Rubber do a range of sound deadening materials, of varying thicknesses and some of them with an adhesive backing. How do they compare?
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Surf Coast
    Posts
    964
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you don't like the idea of the stick on dynamat type of damping pad material then check out the "mass loaded vinyl" section of the car builder's website.

    One of the materials in there should be similar to the original type of foam+heavy layer original insulation.

    It has to be used on the inside (technically the stick on dynamat type stuff could go on the outside) but the vinyl stuff should be rated to well over 100C so would be no issue on the trans tunnel.
    Dan

    '14 Def 110
    '75 Lightweight
    '98 300Tdi Disco (gone)
    '80 2Dr Rangie Classic (gone)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,742
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by INter674 View Post
    Dynamat is heavy but v effective. Son used it in his Patrol and it made it much quieter..esp in the doors and firewall areas. Weight is a factor tho if used expensively.
    and extensively?

    Sorry, could not help myself!!
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,742
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by DieselDan View Post
    If you don't like the idea of the stick on dynamat type of damping pad material then check out the "mass loaded vinyl" section of the car builder's website.

    One of the materials in there should be similar to the original type of foam+heavy layer original insulation.

    It has to be used on the inside (technically the stick on dynamat type stuff could go on the outside) but the vinyl stuff should be rated to well over 100C so would be no issue on the trans tunnel.
    Thanks for comments.
    Having also wrecked a 93 RRC, I probably have enough of the original stuff in reasonable condition to give me a significant noise reduction - especially asI have a TD5, not a V8.
    Cheers All.
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,251
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    and extensively?

    Sorry, could not help myself!!
    Both🙄

  9. #9
    DiscoMick Guest
    Keep in mind too the insulation should be waterproof. You don't want soaking wet insulation sitting there causing rust.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    1,016
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have used dynamat extreme in several vehicles over the years and found it to be excellent in reducing NVH.

    Like all butyl rubber style 'deadening' products, the added mass is what creates the noise insulating effect. It IS significant, HOWEVER:

    1. it's NOT a replacement for the underlay.
    2. it DOES transmit some heat. I have used it bare (i.e. without carpet/underlay direct to floorpan) and the heat reduction is obvious, but there is still heat transmission. You will never get rid of that with a single layer of this type of product.
    3. application needs to be thoroughly planned. you need the roller tool, it needs to be applied with overlap, and change of direction will always require an incision in the foil layer.
    4. if there is existing bitumenous material already in-situ, it needs to be removed. Don't run the stuff over old deadening patches or sections. the old bitumen will eventually come loose. I learned this on my first vehicle. Now I use dry ice to remove it, and a heat gun to pull the rest.

    5. Absolutely investigate the carbuilders "kits" which comprise the mat and the liner and the tape. This is the "correct" solution for replacing the RRC plastic coated foam.

    Lastly:
    Treat ALL rust before you apply any of the dynamat. so that's repair the rust or wire brush/phos acid treat spots, then epoxy enamel spray over it, then use the dynamat.
    make sure the floorpans underside (i.e. the exposed side) that has the underbody spray schutz deadener on it does not have any cracks or ingress areas for moisture. If it does, remove the affected areas deadener, treat and re-seal.
    Use of Lanotec Steel Seal is a very good idea in this area, especially near the outriggers and body mounts etc.

    In conclusion the butyl/foil mat is good, but it's not a complete solution for noise AND thermal barrier. the dynaliner is also needed. When you look at the carbuilders product, it's priced better and you can tailor the "kit size" to what you need.
    I would absolutely recommend you do the roof as well as the floor of the entire vehicle, and if you want to mass-load the door skins to reduce that "hollow noise" through the door panel, then you'll have to be pretty thorough in cleaning the door cavity and rustproofing it before applying the butyl mat.

    It's absolutely worthwhile, and if you do it properly, then there won't be any "rust issues", even if you get water inside.
    Also, on my 107, after applying the dynamat to the entire floor/firewall/rear bulkhead, I sprayed over the edge joins with colour-matched epoxy enamel, in two heavy coats. I also drove that car around for 6 months without carpets and never even scratched the paint on the dynamat.

    If you think you know how much you need, add a 25% contingency, you will always find areas to add it.
    IMO the firewall is the single most effective place for thermal and noise insulation based on my experience. It's a big job taking out the dash though.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!