Lt77 and r380 with an lt230 transfer case.
I can't remember if I've asked this before, but can anyone tell me which 5 speed manual box will fit behind my '81 3.5L??....up to which year, which model, etc.
Also will the electronic dizzy from a 3.5L fit a '93ish 3.9 EFI ?
Roger
Lt77 and r380 with an lt230 transfer case.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Or an LT85 as well.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
OK.......here's where my ignorance shows, I assume my '81 two door 3.5L has an LT230 transfer, but all the other numbers you've rattled off don't mean s**t to me....... speak english, dude, english!!
Roger
Gearboxes - google is your friend - will explain all.
No LT230 for you - your year was most likely a LT95 gearbox, transfer case combined unit.
Try googling Range Rover Wiki and you might learn a little about the vehicle - makes asking and understanding questions a little easier.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Too easy, thanks 101, got it now.
OK, I have an LT230 in the shed from when I was going to do a 5L conversion ( still have the VQ V8, turbo700 and adaptor set-up sitting there as well ).....whats the difference between the LT77 , LT85 and R380 and what years/models did they come in......which would be the better box?
Are they a bolt -in or do I need adaptors, different mounts, etc.
Roger
Basically the LT85 5 speed (often called the Santana box) with the LT230 transfer replaced the LT95 combo in the 110 Country - maybe the RR too not sure. Mid 80s. Was an OK box and bolted up to the Isuzu diesel (very marginal and the V8).
Late 80s was replaced by the LT77 with LT230 transfer - was a 5 speed box, stronger than the LT85 and I believe is a development of the Jaguar/Rover SD1 gearbox. I always found the LT77 annoying because reverse was next to first and easy to go into reverse rather than first at traffic lights.
In 1994 the R380 with the LT230 transfer was introduced into the Defender and Disco - a 5 speed gearbox with reverse on the opposite side of first. The 380 stands for the NMs it can handle. In my view is the best of the lot - modern and easy to use - I would look at putting this box in you old RR but not sure about gearbox mounts etc - should bolt up to your old 3.5.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
1984 is when the lt77 was fitted to an rrc , dad traded his 2dr in for the new 5 SPD model as soon as it was released.
Lt230 came out in 83 with the tf727 auto.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Thanks for the help......any ideas on the dizzy?
I have a spare 3.5L electronic ignition and my mate wants to know if it will fit his ( I think ) '93 ( not sure of the year ) 3.9 EFI.
Roger
Best get yourself a copy of RAVE, because by the sound of it you are going to need a factory reference manual for all the subtle nuances between models when you start poking around and making changes. ESPECIALLY in the electrical dept.
3.9 is 14CUX, EFI motor and uses a GM HEI type ignition, i.e it uses a reluctor coil & hall sensor, 2 wire output to an electronic ignition module.
The mechanical advance is different to earlier model carb dizzy. So you will need to replace the weights and springs or have the distributor regraphed to suit your requirements.
External module and coil solution is best read up on BeeUtey's ignition mod thread. aka BIM024. Make sure you use the correct NEW coil when doing the mod.
Also strongly urge you to disassemble and rebuild the distributor and correct any shaft freeplay as well as tap the top of the shaft to prevent the ' my rotors stuck, I'll give it a yank' and you break it phenomena.
Forsee a lot of reading in your future, whether you want to or not. Especially if you are chasing a reliable solution regarding vehicle electrics (and doing it properly).
For dizzy I use a genuine Lucas rotor and cap. Leads are your discretion as is plug heat range. Cheap rotors and caps will have you stranded in a jiffy. I had one in spares when I bought my RRC and it proved itself to be a serious problem that lead me down the garden path.
I believe some have used a ford rotor with some degree of success. I personally prefer to use a genuine lucas cap and rotor, proven reliable (sprprisingly). Never had to change them out since installation and they are in very good condition still.
Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
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