Printable View
A quality re-core is 800 ish these days. I can treat the core when I get the thing back so it's good for a very long time, but I'm interested in never having to replace it again......... a bit like Goodridge braided stainless brake lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercguy
A lot of old tractor radiators are all brass and they look brand new parked out in a paddock when the all the rest has carked it.
1600 isn't that bad for all brass........... who did yours? PM if you'd prefer.
cheers, DL
Superior Radiator Service in Moorebank.Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
They also modified the end tanks and got rid of both heat exchangers for me at my request.
4 row offset high efficiency heavy duty core (it's an adrad core from Adelaide)
These cores are manufactured to order. Not off the shelf, but turnaround was 2 days after dropping it off. (3 day total).
I think I posted pics in one of the other threads....
Running twin 16" spal 3000cfm thermos and a derale pwm controller.
I made the shroud out of 4mm epoxy glass, no airflow restriction (unlike original shroud).
As you could imagine, there is quite a bit of airflow with the fans running, and engine bay temps are much improved.
What are the thoughts on the alloy radiators for sale on eBay, there are 3 core radiators for around $280.00.
If that is a risk you are willing to take, it is up to you.
I'm probably going to have to go down this road. $800 is to spendy for me to get a proper radiator built (maybe in 10years time when most of the kids have finished school :) ).Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Kaye
Alloy radiators are throw away though .... you can't unsolder the tank to rod them out. I'm probably going to find the physically biggest/heavy duty alloy chinese crap radiator I can find and fit ....... then cross the fingers and hope it lasts for a few years. There is a hell of a lot of cars running these cheap radiators these days, so they can't be to bad long term.
Possibly if you were doing a huge amount of offroad work (corrugations anyone?) they may fatigue crack ?
seeya,
Shane L.
Flushing a radiator is a waste of time. The only way to clean them is to unsolder/remove the tanks and push a rod through each tube to clear them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Kaye
The only time flushing a radiator has worked for me was an old tractor radiator. Its tubes are so large, the "bits" stuck in them actually flushed out! (well the stuff I could see from the radiator cap "looked' clear compared to before, it's probably still plenty plugged up though).
I have purchased an alloy 4 core radiator off eBay. They claim a 30% better cooling efficiency, don't know how they came up with that or if it is even correct. When installed though it should prove if a blocked radiator was the problem I had.
Can you post or PM a link pls Richard?Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Kaye
I'm interested in all options.
The biggest issue with installing RRC radiators is to ensure that the weight is supported by the grommets that go on the locating pins in each bottom corner.
The bolts that go on the sides are for locating purposes fore and aft only.
DL
I too can vouch for Superior Radiators in Moorebank. They have been doing our stuff for years - they are good blokes who do a great job. I believe they used to service and repair the radiators from the perenties at the nearby Holsworthy Army base too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercguy
Edward :)
Hi..2 years ago or maybe 3 I fitted a Ali one..so far so good..I had to modify the shroud and the top brackets to make it fit but hey it was cheap..
I still have the copper one for future recore if I ever need it...from memory it was a 2 core???
From evilbay🙂😁😁
Brad