Hi...I would replace the dizzy Rotor with a new one and make sure it’s a genuine Lucas...they are renound for just stopping...it’s a common problem...and hard to find if you don’t know..it’s a good place to start..
Brad
Hi Folks,
Just looking for some tech support please. A friend is running a '86 injected Rover V8 in a sedan and is having a strange problem, the car runs well for between 2-10 minutes then cuts at idle. It flutters slightly then dies. So far we have confirmed ;
- Strong spark
- Good timing
- Good fuel pressure to the injectors.
The plugs have sooted up a bit and its running NGK 6 heat plugs, we're going to go hotter and try 5's.
Just wondering if anyone has any other ideas ? Also is it common for the dropping resistor in these to fail ? And does anyone know what the correct injector voltage should be ?
Thanks in advance. My personal car is an Isuzu County so I'm not up to speed with this new fangled field injection.....
Cheers
Mark
Hi...I would replace the dizzy Rotor with a new one and make sure it’s a genuine Lucas...they are renound for just stopping...it’s a common problem...and hard to find if you don’t know..it’s a good place to start..
Brad
Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
LROCWA Ex member 23 years
1971 Series 2A
2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
1989 Vogue auto
2011 TDV8 Vogue
What would life be without a Rangie?
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Have a look to see if the resistor pack on the rear of the LH bank is tight with a good earth. That's if my memory serves me right.
Regards PhilipA
My brother had the same issue with his V8 injected D1.
It ended up being corroded terminals and connecters in the ignition system under the bonnet.It took a long time to work out.
Follow the wiring and check it all very carefully.
I cant remember where they actually were.
Paul
D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.
'56 S1,been in the family since...'56
Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run
I second what PhilipA suggested, check the resistor pack wiring, silver alloy box not far from the AFM. There is a power wire there for each bank of injectors with 8 injector wires running back to the injectors themselves, inside the box is just long solder trails on PCB, not much to go wrong there. But the plug and pins can have problems due to the heat of the exhaust manifold and the angle of the wiring from factory.
My Dad's 89 3.5 had intermittent running issues which I found out roadside was due to the resistor pack wiring because if you moved that part of the wiring loom by hand with the motor idling it would stall etc. We picked up some new crimp terminals and heatshrink in the nearest town (we were a while out from anywhere), I recrimped each injector connection first before cutting off the plug completely and relocated the resistor pack to have less tension on the wiring and move it away from the heat from the passenger side exhaust manifold. It has been running without issues for more than 5 years now.
Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
---|
|
|
Bookmarks