REAR MAIN SEAL?

**350RRC** · 28th January 2021, 09:10 AM

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

auto should be simpler. If he pulls the motor, remove the engine mounts, and drop it down as far as you can. I needed to bend a spanner to get to the two top bolts. The rest you can get to from underneath (use a 3/8ths ratchet with a stack of short extension bars --rather than a single long one) as it'll allow more flex. Not a fun job (especially if you have put a firewall blanket on there).

The problem with pulling the motor is all the "while I'm here" expenses

... eg: gaskets, seals, welch plugs, engine mounts, exhaust and flange gaskets ..........etc.

seeya,
Shane L.

I think your way would be a hell of a lot easier than taking the floor out.

From memory in Haynes the floor removal process goes something like.........remove lower dash, heater, seats, etc, etc.

I already had the floor out in my POS when I put the C9 in, but I was swapping and fixing all sorts of other bits at the same time (such as heater, dash, seats) so it was no big deal.

DL

**Patrick M** · 14th October 2021, 01:48 PM

Sorry it has taken so long to reply and thanks for the feedback, I finally completed the job about three months back and since then have been on a 3,000 Klm trip to Alice Springs, the Fink River Gorge and numerous other places as well while on a two week break from work.
The old girl went extremely well with a best leg fuel consumption of 7.7 Klms. per liter and thats loaded to the gunnels as well.
I ended up pulling the old 3.5 motor out, the old seal when removed it just crumbled away, so brittle, anyway no more leaks, it turned out that was the only way do it which was good because it gave me the opportunity to address some other issues as well, one of which was replacing all the Konie shockies with Bilstein units.

Anyway thanks blokes:-
Patrick M

**DoubleChevron** · 14th October 2021, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by Patrick M

Sorry it has taken so long to reply and thanks for the feedback, I finally completed the job about three months back and since then have been on a 3,000 Klm trip to Alice Springs, the Fink River Gorge and numerous other places as well while on a two week break from work.
The old girl went extremely well with a best leg fuel consumption of 7.7 Klms. per liter and thats loaded to the gunnels as well.
I ended up pulling the old 3.5 motor out, the old seal when removed it just crumbled away, so brittle, anyway no more leaks, it turned out that was the only way do it which was good because it gave me the opportunity to address some other issues as well, one of which was replacing all the Konie shockies with Bilstein units.

Anyway thanks blokes:-
Patrick M

That's 13L per 100kms isnt' it? Impossibly good for a 3.5 v8 I would have thought ( nearly 22mpg ). It must be one really happy motor

**Mercguy** · 15th October 2021, 02:00 PM

That math doesn't add up. Something isn't right, or that engine is SO lean that it has holes in the pistons.

**Gav 110** · 15th October 2021, 05:56 PM

When I installed the crate 4.6litre in the 110 years ago, I went from around the 22-25 litre per hundred down to around the 15-16 litre per hundred because I’d just unloaded so much cash on it and was taking it (really) easy

After a month or so I was back to the old lead foot and back up to the old economy (with more power) and could take it easy (90-100 on the highways) and get it back below 20

The latest 110. 3.5 litre, if I can get 25 litre per hundred happy days
Gotta switch over to the 4.6 sooner rather than later

**Patrick M** · 20th November 2021, 06:17 PM

Hi Blokes.
Yeah well my first impressions were that my calculations were out but so I worked it all out numerous times and finally thought, tail winds, very flat territory, Ahhh, there you go. still I happy to go with those results.
Regards:-
Patrick M.

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