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Thread: REAR MAIN SEAL?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    auto should be simpler. If he pulls the motor, remove the engine mounts, and drop it down as far as you can. I needed to bend a spanner to get to the two top bolts. The rest you can get to from underneath (use a 3/8ths ratchet with a stack of short extension bars --rather than a single long one) as it'll allow more flex. Not a fun job (especially if you have put a firewall blanket on there).

    The problem with pulling the motor is all the "while I'm here" expenses ... eg: gaskets, seals, welch plugs, engine mounts, exhaust and flange gaskets ..........etc.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    I think your way would be a hell of a lot easier than taking the floor out.

    From memory in Haynes the floor removal process goes something like.........remove lower dash, heater, seats, etc, etc.

    I already had the floor out in my POS when I put the C9 in, but I was swapping and fixing all sorts of other bits at the same time (such as heater, dash, seats) so it was no big deal.

    DL

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Capel WA
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    All Done

    Sorry it has taken so long to reply and thanks for the feedback, I finally completed the job about three months back and since then have been on a 3,000 Klm trip to Alice Springs, the Fink River Gorge and numerous other places as well while on a two week break from work.
    The old girl went extremely well with a best leg fuel consumption of 7.7 Klms. per liter and thats loaded to the gunnels as well.
    I ended up pulling the old 3.5 motor out, the old seal when removed it just crumbled away, so brittle, anyway no more leaks, it turned out that was the only way do it which was good because it gave me the opportunity to address some other issues as well, one of which was replacing all the Konie shockies with Bilstein units.
    Anyway thanks blokes:-
    Patrick M

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick M View Post
    Sorry it has taken so long to reply and thanks for the feedback, I finally completed the job about three months back and since then have been on a 3,000 Klm trip to Alice Springs, the Fink River Gorge and numerous other places as well while on a two week break from work.
    The old girl went extremely well with a best leg fuel consumption of 7.7 Klms. per liter and thats loaded to the gunnels as well.
    I ended up pulling the old 3.5 motor out, the old seal when removed it just crumbled away, so brittle, anyway no more leaks, it turned out that was the only way do it which was good because it gave me the opportunity to address some other issues as well, one of which was replacing all the Konie shockies with Bilstein units.
    Anyway thanks blokes:-
    Patrick M
    That's 13L per 100kms isnt' it? Impossibly good for a 3.5 v8 I would have thought ( nearly 22mpg ). It must be one really happy motor
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  4. #14
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    That math doesn't add up. Something isn't right, or that engine is SO lean that it has holes in the pistons.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Koojan WA (part time Perth)
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    REAR MAIN SEAL?

    When I installed the crate 4.6litre in the 110 years ago, I went from around the 22-25 litre per hundred down to around the 15-16 litre per hundred because I’d just unloaded so much cash on it and was taking it (really) easy

    After a month or so I was back to the old lead foot and back up to the old economy (with more power) and could take it easy (90-100 on the highways) and get it back below 20

    The latest 110. 3.5 litre, if I can get 25 litre per hundred happy days
    Gotta switch over to the 4.6 sooner rather than later
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Capel WA
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    Rear Main Seal

    Hi Blokes.
    Yeah well my first impressions were that my calculations were out but so I worked it all out numerous times and finally thought, tail winds, very flat territory, Ahhh, there you go. still I happy to go with those results.
    Regards:-
    Patrick M.

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