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Thread: 1981 Poo brown two door restore.

  1. #11
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    Good to know,cheers,so far any primer overspray clings to it instantly,not sure re a heavy coat though,but let you know after next weeks painting experiment

  2. #12
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    Respray

    Managed to get the car into a professional auto painters booth for its new coat of 2K Bahama Gold.
    Lovely deep lustre with only 2 coats,as that was all I had supplied the painter,4 litres.
    He would have liked a third coat for optimum,but it’s PPG 625,so covers well.


    Paint process
    1)Go over my single pack dust coat with epoxy primer ,green.
    2)Filler Primer,Grey. sand back x 2 coats.
    3)Tinted base coat to build up,Beige.
    4)Bahama Gold

    7B7C6BF9-56FC-4482-9CCD-7B7A2D090B56.jpg7300B73E-DEDB-490D-BADC-3EA8B3BBB07C.jpg7DB50FC4-B175-4597-A4AD-E7B0658CD6F3.jpgEE125EB3-5038-4218-BE61-3BDE4821BC21.jpg
    4808FC2F-77CD-4EF5-8509-EBE5D03D16A7.jpg

    My wish for the 2K paint process left me having to colour match from LRC235,land rovers original code for Bahama gold base coat/clear.
    This has its own issues due to limited tinters in 2K,so much faffing with tones all on a cardboard sample,add to this the local paint guy wasn’t all that helpful or engaged so ended up with what looks a tad too orange from original,but still has that cigar mustard tonal quality that flips in various light conditions.



    The beauty of that Bahama gold colour, with age it takes on that lovely sun baked faded out tone which I love,so currently I’m looking at a factory new vehicle colour which looks off balance for a 40 year old rangie,and not sure I truely like it,but will have to adjust brain cell…

    Ps; had to laugh,the left door was my first effort on panelwork,as such with that new gloss paint shows up my amateur efforts,missed a couple of dings,the panels wavy but good news is as I walk around you can see I improved markedly,and by the time I get to the bonnet,she’s flawless,so overall not bad.

    Now the fun begins First job was to redo butchered wiring to the tailgate lights topped off with new black band rear lenses, nice.
    16 screws per side to fix each light onto corner,truely British,very land rover…
    The roof next using multiple screws to fasten ,after applying a bead of mastic and filling the gaping corners where the pillars meet the roofline as per factory practice..
    Doors next..

    4AAE1DCB-4252-46B8-B89A-DA2A483A4837.jpgCDEAD057-E995-4D6A-ADC8-D8E1C4A48332.jpg

  3. #13
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    Change of plan

    I expressed my slight disappointment with the colour to my painter,he recommended I go see an old guy who runs a paint shop and is more than happy to mix colours to match.
    What a difference!
    We together matched ‘palomino’to suit the seat bases and interior trim in 5 mins,then he took a look at what I had sprayed and went away to return shortly with a sample pot which was spot on Bahama Gold.
    He suggested lightening it slightly so added some white and now it’s perfect


    I presumed this was basecoat but he informed me it was 2k,happy days and it was in the same database the other guy uses but hadn’t bothered to find !!!aaargh.
    Expensive lesson learnt but happy to have the right colour for a reshoot.


    I need to let the paint harden and vent for a couple of weeks prior to a respray,so will push on with interior,sound mat,seat bases,rear seat etc
    new springs with old bilstein shocks on the list.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #14
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    Soundmat,seat bases,gauge panel

    Busy couple of days with seats out and a grind up of the seat bases.
    primed and sprayed ‘palomino’ with an added hint of white to give it that slightly aged patina.
    This was sampled off a piece of famous four,seat side trim,result was a fiat colour on his scanner.
    I learnt to drive in a palomino fiat127 as it turns out,haha..

    Sound mat laid around cockpit,wheel wells and roof has been done,doors to go but token gesture there as difficult to get into any clean open area there.
    wish I’d had the product and done them off the car while being panelworked!

    Installed a 52mm tachometer to replace oil temp gauge,takes a feed from the coil and found a spare switched ignition (white wire) floating behind dash.
    before strip down the aftermarket oil pressure gauge worked,alas I broke it on disassembly as the lamp holder brittle plastic dissolved in hand.
    I have installed an original smiths but can’t get it to read?
    Original wiring reinstated with correct colours.
    I did strip a lot of excess wiring so may have missed something but the aftermarket gauge had an additional wire soldered to the lamp holder and bridged to mounting post ??
    What am I missing? It did operate before strip down.
    Does the original smiths gauge require a switched ignition feed?
    it doesn’t help that currently I am multimeterless either..


    dash.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #15
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    Looking very nice great job with the paint!

  6. #16
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    Wonky rangie.

    Doors all sound proofed,actually way easy when cut up to fit spaces around door bracing ,nice clunk now.

    As mentioned I feel this rangie has had a hard life previously and as such had a 30-40 mm droop to the drivers side ,I don’t have an end on photo to illustrate, but parked sideways on my sloping driveway she looked like she’d been drinking heavily

    I’ve had a good look around and no obvious chassis hits,and rails look straight as,and although worn the body mounts are present and ok bar the drivers side rear which is bent down 15mm.


    This didn’t really explain the massive chassis lean,although I truely think the whole frame has been laddered as mentioned fitting and shimming the doors earlier.

    All keen,launched into restoring standard springs front and back.
    As you know Land Rover uses paint splashes down each spring to denote the type and position,so had green splashed standards for the rear,blue for the fronts.

    At the time of writing,there was no access to the shops for spring compressors,so did some diy,,you’ll laugh…
    0E766B4E-3C2F-45D1-9A88-3126A6AE7FB3.jpg

    A couple of the cheapest nastiest budget Rachet straps to create a primed Grenade,,haha ,this was more than slightly scary hammering into place lying under the wing!

    Stepping back here ,I replaced two britpart HD yellow springs with the standard rears and she still had the leans,35mm,so purchased off eBay,some polytuff oz company 30mm poly spacers for Range Rover classics.


    Fit the grenade on drivers side and remeasured,still down but not near as much,so onto fronts.

    By this stage my spring compressors had arrived in the mail,much less tense
    Would you believe,up front an original land rover set of police red/white stripes,these are a heavy duty lifted ‘rear’ springs..I’m starting to dislike Mr earlier owner,with his bash plates,full roll cage etc on a poor unsuspecting 40 year old two door…

    No doubt it had three winches to drag him off the shear cliff he’d just rolled down….hence the weight compensation up front.

    As an aside the two yellow britpart shocks were 15mm different heights!

    11AA420B-E911-4B7B-BF9D-250BF375350C.jpg

    502249EC-C2B0-4E97-901D-17496C3E2CA3.jpg

    Technique,
    Loosen wheel nuts
    Trolley jack car up under axle
    chock opposite end tyres as scary movement otherwise..
    Place jack stand under rear chassis.(tow hook mount is a good spot,as per photo)
    Remove Wheel.
    loosen and remove lock plate bolts at bottom of strut(wd40 and wire brush clagged bolt first)
    release lower nut of rooted el rancho shock.
    lower car onto jack stand using trolley jack
    lower trolley jack further so axle is close to ground
    (caution not to allow axle to hang from brake Pipe lines on front end)
    Use cheap nasty rachet straps….nah joke,,,use HD quality spring compressors to lower spring out of seat)
    Clean up area ,rust converter,satin black etc.
    reverse procedure..

    Fronts are a little more work having to remove the shock turret but all easy access on an early classic.

    52800B68-6DD6-4E02-98B8-0EEB0379DC7F.jpg

    And the result?
    After all four corners and one kneecap into a wheel stud later ,the cars level
    mind you the thing is stripped and no boge leveller installed yet..
    Aplogies for picture quality,for some reason I have to edit quality down and make them portrait else they flip..

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by westy1 View Post
    Doors all sound proofed,actually way easy when cut up to fit spaces around door bracing ,nice clunk now.

    As mentioned I feel this rangie has had a hard life previously and as such had a 30-40 mm droop to the drivers side ,I don’t have an end on photo to illustrate, but parked sideways on my sloping driveway she looked like she’d been drinking heavily

    I’ve had a good look around and no obvious chassis hits,and rails look straight as,and although worn the body mounts are present and ok bar the drivers side rear which is bent down 15mm.


    This didn’t really explain the massive chassis lean,although I truely think the whole frame has been laddered as mentioned fitting and shimming the doors earlier.

    All keen,launched into restoring standard springs front and back.
    As you know Land Rover uses paint splashes down each spring to denote the type and position,so had green splashed standards for the rear,blue for the fronts.

    At the time of writing,there was no access to the shops for spring compressors,so did some diy,,you’ll laugh…
    0E766B4E-3C2F-45D1-9A88-3126A6AE7FB3.jpg

    A couple of the cheapest nastiest budget Rachet straps to create a primed Grenade,,haha ,this was more than slightly scary hammering into place lying under the wing!

    Stepping back here ,I replaced two britpart HD yellow springs with the standard rears and she still had the leans,35mm,so purchased off eBay,some polytuff oz company 30mm poly spacers for Range Rover classics.


    Fit the grenade on drivers side and remeasured,still down but not near as much,so onto fronts.

    By this stage my spring compressors had arrived in the mail,much less tense
    Would you believe,up front an original land rover set of police red/white stripes,these are a heavy duty lifted ‘rear’ springs..I’m starting to dislike Mr earlier owner,with his bash plates,full roll cage etc on a poor unsuspecting 40 year old two door…

    No doubt it had three winches to drag him off the shear cliff he’d just rolled down hence the weight compensation up front.

    As an aside the two yellow britpart shocks were 15mm different heights!

    11AA420B-E911-4B7B-BF9D-250BF375350C.jpg

    502249EC-C2B0-4E97-901D-17496C3E2CA3.jpg

    Technique,
    Loosen wheel nuts
    Trolley jack car up under axle
    chock opposite end tyres as scary movement otherwise..
    Place jack stand under rear chassis.(tow hook mount is a good spot,as per photo)
    Remove Wheel.
    loosen and remove lock plate bolts at bottom of strut(wd40 and wire brush clagged bolt first)
    release lower nut of rooted el rancho shock.
    lower car onto jack stand using trolley jack
    lower trolley jack further so axle is close to ground
    (caution not to allow axle to hang from brake Pipe lines on front end)
    Use cheap nasty rachet straps….nah joke,,,use HD quality spring compressors to lower spring out of seat)
    Clean up area ,rust converter,satin black etc.
    reverse procedure..

    Fronts are a little more work having to remove the shock turret but all easy access on an early classic.

    52800B68-6DD6-4E02-98B8-0EEB0379DC7F.jpg

    And the result?
    After all four corners and one kneecap into a wheel stud later ,the cars level
    mind you the thing is stripped and no boge leveller installed yet..
    Aplogies for picture quality,for some reason I have to edit quality down and make them portrait else they flip..
    The lean is normal. Couple of web explanations for it:

    1. LR were allowing for road amber in LHD RRC's.

    2. The weight of the TC part of an LT 95 is too far to the right of centre so it leans that way.

    (kinda makes sense because having a longer right rear spring will fix it, front makes no difference)

    Some spring makers have separate part numbers for 'matching' rear springs, with the right rear being longer.

    In the US all the classics had longer right rear springs as stock.

    BTW......... I have Pedders heavy duty 2" lift springs in my POS (from when I bought it in the 90's, No sag over all that time and they already had 185 k kms on them) and I've never had to use a spring compressor to get them in or out.

    From memory.......... chassis on 4 blocks or fixed jacks, shocks out, jack the hub opposite the side you want to remove the spring from, might need a short lever, easy as.

    cheers, DL

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
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    Good info

    Howdy,Many thanks for that,all makes perfect sense ,really good points.
    I did remove the high side rear first and that balanced the rear back to 10mm diff,did think about running like that too,just the very mismatched spring rates would have bugged my ocd
    The fronts were still a good 30mm out setup like that hence the full 9 yards.

    Here’s a another confirmation she was LHD,check out the dash and the three sets of holes for the warning lights underneath the removed grab handle plate ,and another set over on the right.

    51E2E5E3-DF8D-4EF9-8693-3D0F3C6847E1.jpg
    Sounds a good technique,like it.By adding those shims it did make them tall.

  9. #19
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    Oct 2010
    Location
    nz
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    Front grill area refurb.


  10. #20
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    Respray result

    In the interim while the ex brown rangie was away for it’s respray,many small jobs completed in prep for a full assault to put her all back together.
    window frames painted,new quarter light rubbers installed.

    C6DB87FB-B467-4C9A-A409-DCB7E81D63AC.jpeg
    top tip; don’t leave those small interior triangular metal plates that sit in the rubber quarterlight till after glass install,totally impossible to fit,ask my how I know.
    the remanufactured rubbers have a very shallow groove so will require some deft craftknife action to deepen the slots,may even get brave and use a dremel cutting disc and not drunk…

    One new quarterlight frame also,as the bolts frequently rust onto the shaft,yes,I snapped one 237DAC65-DF78-4F8F-83D4-027253ADE116.jpgoff,aaargh .
    Famous Four are now doing new sets $$ but I found an independent source and quality is good,cheaper too.
    He doesn’t say but they come with a new glass seal also.
    Products — Machinor

    Seats out to regrease tracks,and rollers.
    The drivers was particularly stiff to tilt and not return to upright easily or slide.
    On removal found it missing a roller,caked on dirt in track and hard residual grease.
    These seat mechanisms are an interesting piece of engineering,,quite heavy duty,it’s a bit hard to explain but that vertical plate that has the butty spring had been whacked off centre so wasn’t engaging when lifting the lever.
    medium hammer fixed and lubed up rollers etc,now smooth and free,nice.
    check out the non genuine but quite snazzy two tone brown velour

    6C755DE1-D12A-42D5-B509-2A92C8789C4C.jpg B9D6D3D4-307C-4FC9-9ACD-9F529CA1EC0F.jpg

    Bumpers primed and taken to be sprayed by the car painter,getting better at this filler stuff now
    5AF12678-7991-4979-9301-39547D367025.jpg 9504948C-97C2-40AB-9926-75F20FAC2E13.jpg 1FCD40F4-3E9B-4606-A8E0-857C6241FC64.jpg

    New door cards arrived from eBay,off a good guy in Slovakia ,he does all sorts of classics.
    Range Rover Classic Door panels Door cards (Twodoor 1970-1986) | eBay

    A1642710-C27A-4416-ACC5-6954CB22BE5C.jpg
    I have cut them where the inside top of the door angles in.5.5cm from top of card
    The originals on the car had a mills&boon pva’d to both sides.
    I’ve gone with some decent gorilla tape applied with the angle on the panel so retains that profile.
    The clips on the old ones were rusted out so,will likely use Velcro to hold to doorframe.

    Door locks in,dremeled away some of the lock body tabs to accomodate my 6mm of bog around the hole on one side.
    Spent a few hours fine tuning the mechanism so the doors shut,open and lock/unlock easily with the key without breaking it.
    I did mean to take photos for guidance here as each pushrod needs to be set in just the right position for the whole thing to work in symphony,,multiple adjustments required.
    One door wouldn’t unlock,and it took me ages to troubleshoot that the pivot spring in the centre of the door Mech wasn’t returning a pushrod to unlock it far enough.

    D8C3AD4E-2381-43D6-8B62-5AF8C9FE489F.jpg

    I have a couple of spares of these scavenged from wrecks,just as well,as there is a spring that rusts out behind that pivot plate,and my one had broken so no spring force helping return the pushrod on door release.
    In this case, it would have locked me out on that side.
    Feel like I have a fairly sound grasp of how the whole door Mech needs to be balanced now.
    If anyone has issues with their setup,may be able to provide some guidance now,last time I did these they worked by sheer dumb luck!

    The cars back…
    slightly excited to see it pulling up the drive ,delivered while away at work,,nervous coming up the hill knowing it was there but that the colour would be crap but pleasantly surprised as it’s no longer caterpillar yellow haha.

    Good to see that muddy mustard,but being used to seeing old faded ones,still takes me by surprise how bright it looks,makes me want to throw some dust over it,weird huh..

    Now the fun begins,,
    Into it full knacker fitting the front guards,decker panel,and finally the bonnet.
    You may recall i had shimmed the drivers door a whack,a good 6-7mm.
    Having kept the gaps acceptable from the rear of the door,front of door,and the guard tucked in as tight as could manage,I was concerned the last gap,the bonnet,would show up as a gaping cavity..

    Initially yes,but pulled the decker panel forward and tightened it down,was able to mildly twist the bonnet to close up and lock it in,step back and not too bad,,phew.

    Check out the tyre difference,front to back..the Dunlop road gripper F tyres sure fill the wheel well,like it.

    C16AF273-3178-462B-ADE3-540CE5C13079.jpg

    90E65CDA-EEC7-4126-80C0-5F833CCCA6E7.jpg

    She now has a face as well,bit by bit,but she’s come a long way..

    A4F159FB-2E85-492D-B9BC-7D31452164F7.jpg

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