1981 Poo brown two door restore.

Since ownership the brake pedal wouldn’t return fully and had to flip it up from underneath while driving to stop partial braking.
It was handy at traffic lights,like a modern electronic park brake hold function but not working right so made an effort to sort it today.

Checked pedal return spring intact and working yes,all good,but wouldn’t overpower the semi seized piston so suspected master cylinder not releasing the pressure in the line due age,gunk,failed seals etc …maybe…

Attachment 176229

Circa 1981/2 range rovers got changed to metric,so after some google research took a punt it was still imperial.
The markings on the original AP Lockheed master looked similar to an eBay listed imperial version and seemingly there are a few other hints such as;
Calliper bolts 6 point bs 12 point later.
brake line union shape seemingly?
Also the orientation of the holes on the brake proportioning valve I gather.
None of this was conclusive tho as random combos exist ex factory well after the theoretical change over year as we are all well aware,lucky dip :)

Original N.O.S imperial masters are near impossible to source and mega bucks,so went with the obvious due lack of choice nor money;)

With that the first thing to do after opening the blue box was take off the old master and see if the bolt fitted .so far so good.

Attachment 176226

Best practice is to bench bleed the master if possible.

I don’t own a dedicated kit so fashioned up a make do setup.
The master came with clear rubber bungs plugging the holes,so drilled them out and used some black poly pipe and stuck it into rubber bungs,was shocked and pleasantly surprised it sealed the lines:)

Attachment 176227


Placed the ends of my flash new patented bleed lines into top of master and filled with new fluid.
Used non sharp tool to work the piston and bleed the air from the primary and secondary circuits ,also stopped and changed angle of the master in the vice to make sure no air bubbles trapped in one end.

Attachment 176230 Attachment 176231 Attachment 176232


Measured the distance of the plunger piston as per manual 22.3-22.4mm and checked if square over the top,not bad so carried unit over and carefully placed in situ.
First I disconnected the back line and watched in horror as all fluid in back half of master cylinder emptied into engine bay,,,!!
This was while busily trying to screw-in the brake line coupling onto the now exposed hole thinking it was escaping there ,,little did I realise I’d created the perfect syphon with the bleed line hose still in the master now pouring fluid rapidly out before I clicked to what and where it came from ..
top tip;) remove bleed line from master reservoir before undoing plugged hose,,duh !!


Anyway couldn’t be faffed redoing this procedure so carried on.
Fitted the Land Rover standard factory issue pedal depressor before removing the second line and tidied up.
they both leaked with some pedal pressure at the line union,ok,backed the car out to clean up swimming pool of brake fluid and spotted two copper crush washers on floor,aha,,
So undid both banjo fittings again and fitted back onto threaded bolt ,tightened up and no further leaks.
These aren’t really visible when installed as recessed but the eagle eyed can spot the slight gap between banjo and master cylinder,so good to know.

Attachment 176234 Attachment 176235

Once having removed the master cylinder I contorted under drivers pedals to test if said brake pedal had loosened up,nope!
It seemed to be binding or dragging and making a screech while moving.
With no intention of removing the entire unit if possible got back in the manual to see what voodoo lies behind..

Attachment 176236
As a bit of a last ditch resort pulled out the oil gun and aimed it as far down into back of piston as possible ,also oil attacked back of tunnel on the servo side in vain hope some might find it’s way to loosen something up.
Back into drivers footwell and onto the brake pedal,you could feel the thing instantly loosen up,no more screech and return to full smooth travel..happy days.

Not very scientific,and no idea what had seized in there,whether oil had got far enough to lube the o ring or spring but a result.

The irony here being the master cylinder wasn’t at fault,the 41 year old Lockheed, likely still a goodin,so will keep it handy for when this new one dissolves,felt good to refresh the system tho:)

The current engine is the original,runs beautifully smooth but I’d say that’s down to having no lobes left on cam.

Also amazing how forgiving these engines are with a high likelihood it hasn’t had an oil change for many 10’s of miles,by the look of the Black Death in the rocker covers..

Attachment 176802 Attachment 176803

I inherited a seemingly blueprinted 3.5 engine with a frame purchase last year ,sold the frame,but kept the engine,so launched into a change out.

Engine mounts seen better days.

Attachment 176805

Rebuilt carbs using a kit from Burlen,for the cd175 4000 tagged twin setup.
This donor engine has a 20 prefix on the engine number ,low comp 8:13:1 so guessing it’s from a defender?

These carbs have the fixed jet so bought the special tool from burlen uk also to set needle heights on the same level as the bridge as a starting point.
right carb shaft had floating play so changed that and replaced throttle disc.
alloy oxidisation in float bowls but not too bad..
Attachment 176807 Attachment 176808 Attachment 176809
This is all new to me as have been an efi proponent up until this one.
The more I read,watched on you tube etc,reduced the fear factor enough to have a go,and it was the most satisfying thing demystifying how amazingly simple they are,also cleaning them up using new fittings and gaskets ,shiny brass stuff ooooh :) really enjoyed it.

One thing I did notice,was the float valves that came in the kit are different to the originals ,no longer having a filter on the underside and have vent holes in the top sides..
On inspection,the valve itself did seem to stick a little when inverted before falling freely,compared to the originals which we’re smooth and loose but still worked fine.

Made the call to clean the originals up and put them back in.
Subsequent reading had mention of
these replacements being slightly troublesome,with valves sticking open causing fuel overflow etc.

Attachment 176810 Attachment 176811

Had a mischievous minion helping,not sure if the look on the face meant she’d just dropped a nut into the engine or not ;);)

Attachment 176812 Attachment 176813

Had flywheel de rusted and finished ,cool pattern .

Rebuilt the clutch while in there using the kit from Luke at LOF clutches.
You can see the quality,top notch stuff,affordable too,,note the spring size and setup compared to the original Borg&Beck..
No photo, but the clips he provides with the kit for the throw out bearing and to hold the slave rod are his patented design and brilliant.
check them out on you tube.
Also a fan of the green,but I’m shallow ;)
Attachment 176814 Attachment 176816
Attachment 176817 Attachment 176819 Attachment 176820

Howdy all,the new engines in and now the fun of tacking back on all the ancillaries which is kinda fun.

The original had aircon and with that an unusual crank pulley setup and had alternator on the left(passenger) side.
Im taking it back to a more standard setup and have the bracket to put the alternator on the right(drivers)side.
(The original pulley won’t work as pulley spacing is way different)

I didn’t really notice at the time, but the donor has a single crank pulley to suit a non power steering vehicle,so I’ve been out to my wrecker and obtained a twin pulley crank to suit the early 2 belt setup.

My question is ,the power steering pump has a double pulley (in pic below)and the outside ring closely lines up with waterpump,and crank pulley near enough that I am entertaining the thought of using a sole v belt to run the whole show.

Awaiting a new alternator,but that should line up by default with the crank/waterpump pulleys,so can I get a longer belt to suit and run it around??

Ive got the belt tensioner also and would appreciate your thoughts on whether anyone has seen or done this,and would this work??
Saves me changing out the crank pulley which is nicely in place and has seemingly been balanced for this engine on rebuild.
Also,what gauge belt do the narrow v belt pulleys take?
Just did a quick rough string measure around the pulleys and approx 1400-1500mm ,local crowd does do 11A gauge belts this long:) buy 3 and change them over frequently?
cheers heaps

Attachment 176908 Attachment 176910

AFAIK normal automotive v belts have an 'A' prefix and the pulleys are built to suit or vice versa.The profiles match for mx grip and life.

When I put RRC power steering on my POS I had to get a double crank pulley.

The stock 81 RRC PS pump on mine runs with a stock single RRC pulley with absolutely no issues.

The local - ish Chev specialist had singles, doubles and triples that were machined billet aluminium. $50 for a double from memory.

He assured me they last, which it has. This is even with me running an industrial belt off it to the PS pump. I can tell by the wear on the pulley it's not ideal........ an automotive belt would have been better, but I couldn't easily get one that short at the time.

Pulley bolts onto the harmonic balancer. I've never seen a tin pulley that's been balanced.

DL

You can run a belt around as many pulleys as you like.
The issue will be, does the belt wrap around enough of the pulley to generate enough grip to drive the device [bighmmm]
So if you had four pulleys in a square pattern, you would have 90 degrees of belt grip on each pulley.
Noting that the engine pulley has to have enough grip to drive the other three, it’s going to need the most wrap.
There is probably a reason why there are normally more than one belt.

My 82 has one belt for air con and power steering and another for water pump and alternator.

Regards
Phil

Ditched the lazy idea of a single pulley belt,there was 5mm offset anyway which would have trashed the belts fairly quick,so tidied up the rusty donor twin pulley.

This donor had been leaking, evident on pulling it off the 84 donor car,blathered in oil around pulley.
Shame as the original front crank pulley had no wear grooves,not so the donor but not too bad,barely a thumbnail worthy crease line but enough to leak.
Rightly or wrongly,I did roll it with fine sandpaper to reduce the edges and this reduced the groove depth noticeably.

Speedi sleeve the order of the day as best practice.part#99192 available at your local bearing shop usually.SKF list them in their catalogue online.
Attachment 176980 Attachment 176981

The only drawback on install is the alignment tool (included in the kit )doesn’t push it far enough down the harmonic balancer shaft to seat the flange at the base.
The instruction sheet suggests using a pipe or similar in this case.
Scoured garage for something suitable,some pvc pipe to the rescue.

Attachment 176982 Attachment 176983

Some rubber grease to help it not cut up the seal and onto vehicle,now the power steering pump pulley lines up perfectly as well,so worth the effort.

Attachment 176984

Well I didn’t realise such a thing existed.
What a life saver that is.

How expensive was it ?

Regards
Phil

$50 dollar lifesaver Phil:)

It helps to fill the wear lines with metallic epoxy before fitting speedi sleeves and the places you get them from like to measure the scored part so you get the exact right sleeve.

DL

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by westy1

$50 dollar lifesaver Phil:)

---

Our local bearing place orders them in. Of course the ones I want were metric and not inexpensive :(